temperature question

[David Thompson]

What temperature should I expect my K1100 Clubsport to achieve when running on track?

What is the temperature when I should switch off, when the car is stationary and ticking over?

Sorry about these basic questions but, as a new owner, the answers are important to me - I don't want to cook it out of ignorance!

[ajh349]

Check out this link http://www.tillingmotorsport.com/id38.html

Simon has the clubsport owners manual on his site which will help you

Edited by ajh349 on Wednesday 11th November 18:53

[David Thompson]

Thank you ajh - really useful

[Martin B]

The temperatures running on track depend a lot on the ambient temperature. Generally the oil and water temps on my Clubsport ended up virtually the same after a race, any where between 68 and 85 degrees C depending upon ambient. I would shut off by 90 degrees if it is just idling.
From start up, the water temp goes up much more quickly than the oil temp and I found that I needed around 45 degrees minimum oil temp to scrape through the noise test at Combe. I use an external fan on the water rad (jjust for paddock use) from start up to allow the oil temp to get to a sufficient temp without the water temp going too high. This is on my dry sump Clubsport, might be different on a wet sump car though.

[gixermark]

sound advice - on getting the oil temp up... but personally I'd like to see higher oil temp readings than that on track.....

[jpivey]

You'll find you will see much lower oil temp on a dry sump to a wet sump, when I had my clubsport don't think I ever saw more than 80-85 on the dash, prosport PR6 wet sump 100 plus, worryed me first time I saw three figures on the dash but it's the norm..

[splitpin]

Given how long it takes to properly warm the oil on a Radical compared to the water temperature, it always seems to me a good idea to have a thermostatically operated electric fan such as a Pacet on a Radical. To my mind, excellent value for the relatively small amount they cost. Pretty well vital on a trackday and I would have thought equally useful/re-assuring if a racer gets held on the grid for longer than usual.

[Martin B]

Lower oil temperatures up to 85 degrees don't need a 50 grade oil, I run a 10/40 race oil, I would run a 30 if one was available for combined gearbox/wet clutch etc.