Remove/install SR3 diff with engine in car?
Discussion
Experts,
I searched and couldn't find anything.
I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if its possible to remove and, more importantly, reinstall the SR3 gear drive diff with the engine installed. I've done the diff with the engine out of the car, but never with it in. I don't really want to get 3/4 of the way through and discover its impossible. Any insight, tips, tricks or advice is welcome.
Thanks in advance.
-Matt
I searched and couldn't find anything.
I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if its possible to remove and, more importantly, reinstall the SR3 gear drive diff with the engine installed. I've done the diff with the engine out of the car, but never with it in. I don't really want to get 3/4 of the way through and discover its impossible. Any insight, tips, tricks or advice is welcome.
Thanks in advance.
-Matt
Hi Matt
I'm 100% sure it can be, but I'm sure there'll be others along shortly with specific 'been there, done it' SR3 expertise (like Simon T, Dario T etc) to tell you how, tips etc.
It's been a quiet day on the RF today, so I reckon a lot of Radical Owners have been busy racing / furiously fettling / seriously drinking (and perhaps watching F1) / complying with house rules, visiting Grandma etc!
I'm 100% sure it can be, but I'm sure there'll be others along shortly with specific 'been there, done it' SR3 expertise (like Simon T, Dario T etc) to tell you how, tips etc.
It's been a quiet day on the RF today, so I reckon a lot of Radical Owners have been busy racing / furiously fettling / seriously drinking (and perhaps watching F1) / complying with house rules, visiting Grandma etc!
splitpin said:
It's been a quiet day on the RF today, so I reckon a lot of Radical Owners have been busy racing / furiously fettling / seriously drinking (and perhaps watching F1) / complying with house rules, visiting Grandma etc!
Everyone's torquing up their flippin' 3 piece wheels sets....nick997 said:
splitpin said:
It's been a quiet day on the RF today, so I reckon a lot of Radical Owners have been busy racing / furiously fettling / seriously drinking (and perhaps watching F1) / complying with house rules, visiting Grandma etc!
Everyone's torquing up their flippin' 3 piece wheels sets....
Furiously fettling it is then !yes the Quaife unit can be removed without the engine being removed.
1. do the normal safety jack up thingy and remove the exhaust
2.start to drain down the diff unit.
3. remove the top bolts from the rear uprights and remove the drive shafts from the outputs. this can be done with a small reaver and a gentle tap to overcome the snap ring that is on the end of the drive chavt CV joint (this would be a good time to inspect the units and regrease with the bloody expensive grease)
4. remove the reverse gear selector cable. (this for me was a bloody difficult affair, whihc entailed undoing the cable in the cockpit and rotatiiong the whole of the bowden cable as i cold not release teh cable from the threaded selector shaft on the quaife unit. PS it needed the assistance of my wife...)
5. I FOUND THAT THIS WAS THE MOST IMPORTANT BIT! IF YOU HAVE THE OIL COOLER FITTED YOU MUST REMOVE THE OUTLET SPOGIT FROM THE QUAIFE UNIT WHICH FEEDS THE INPUT SIDE OF THE DIFF PUMP. it was this littel bugger that stopped me getting the unit out of my chassis from more than 1 hour.(which ever way i turned the thing it would not leave the chassis, as soon as i removed teh hose spigot it fell out.
6.undoo all of the bolts that hold the diff in and dont loose the spacers! also do a diagram of where which bolt goes and what direction it goes in. remove teh reversing light swith wires and remove the oil cooler return hose union from the top if the diff casing.
7. with all of the spacers removed, turn the diff rear end towards the right hand side of the car and this will disengage the drive unit. (dont forget to keep hold of teh drive pegs as these are hugely expensive for what they are.
8. wiggle the box out through the bottom of the chassis and watch your fingers.
Dario
1. do the normal safety jack up thingy and remove the exhaust
2.start to drain down the diff unit.
3. remove the top bolts from the rear uprights and remove the drive shafts from the outputs. this can be done with a small reaver and a gentle tap to overcome the snap ring that is on the end of the drive chavt CV joint (this would be a good time to inspect the units and regrease with the bloody expensive grease)
4. remove the reverse gear selector cable. (this for me was a bloody difficult affair, whihc entailed undoing the cable in the cockpit and rotatiiong the whole of the bowden cable as i cold not release teh cable from the threaded selector shaft on the quaife unit. PS it needed the assistance of my wife...)
5. I FOUND THAT THIS WAS THE MOST IMPORTANT BIT! IF YOU HAVE THE OIL COOLER FITTED YOU MUST REMOVE THE OUTLET SPOGIT FROM THE QUAIFE UNIT WHICH FEEDS THE INPUT SIDE OF THE DIFF PUMP. it was this littel bugger that stopped me getting the unit out of my chassis from more than 1 hour.(which ever way i turned the thing it would not leave the chassis, as soon as i removed teh hose spigot it fell out.
6.undoo all of the bolts that hold the diff in and dont loose the spacers! also do a diagram of where which bolt goes and what direction it goes in. remove teh reversing light swith wires and remove the oil cooler return hose union from the top if the diff casing.
7. with all of the spacers removed, turn the diff rear end towards the right hand side of the car and this will disengage the drive unit. (dont forget to keep hold of teh drive pegs as these are hugely expensive for what they are.
8. wiggle the box out through the bottom of the chassis and watch your fingers.
Dario
Excellent detail Dario, well done mate and I'm sure it'll be well appreciated; sounds like one heck of a five minute job!
Just in case I ever make the move away from the chain to an SR3, interested to know if all this palaver has to be gone through just to change the final drive ratio?
Just in case I ever make the move away from the chain to an SR3, interested to know if all this palaver has to be gone through just to change the final drive ratio?
Split,
Not sure if you can do the ratio change in the car or not. Certainly has to be a little easier with the diff on the bench.
I had a Prosport for 5 years, and even with the hassle of getting the drive out of the car, I'd still have it over my chain and sprockets any day. Don't miss the mess, alignment, fiddling, checking, replacement one bit!
-Matt
Not sure if you can do the ratio change in the car or not. Certainly has to be a little easier with the diff on the bench.
I had a Prosport for 5 years, and even with the hassle of getting the drive out of the car, I'd still have it over my chain and sprockets any day. Don't miss the mess, alignment, fiddling, checking, replacement one bit!
-Matt
splitpin said:
Excellent detail Dario, well done mate and I'm sure it'll be well appreciated; sounds like one heck of a five minute job!
Just in case I ever make the move away from the chain to an SR3, interested to know if all this palaver has to be gone through just to change the final drive ratio?
whilst i have never done it, you are supposed to be able to swap the ration in chassis. how you keep it oil tight at the join i would never know! nice big "o" ring (by big i mean long as hell and fiddly)Just in case I ever make the move away from the chain to an SR3, interested to know if all this palaver has to be gone through just to change the final drive ratio?
Dario
absolute pice of cake to change the sr3 ratios, you dont have to remove the diff from the car done it hundreds of times. Takes about 30 mins a few quirks such as left and right threads the "big" o ring but once you have done it a few times its easy. you need to buy a special socket set from radical
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