Hayabusa Oil Pressures
Discussion
By the way (in case it matters, presumably not), ours is a regular Powertec 1300.
Owners Manual says>
"The oil pressure when the engine is started should run at 90psi at 4000rpm. When up to temperature the oil pressure should read 60psi at 4000rpm."
I have no idea whether ours 'makes' 90psi at 4000rpm (first light on) on start-up, as a combination of not wishing to alienate the neighbours (when at home) and my (probably old-fashioned) mechanical 'sensibilities' all go against revving something to that level when 'cold'. I get ours started and then hold it at a fast idle, I'd guess about 2500rpm? When the water temperature finally starts to read (45degC from memory), I then 'tickle/blip it' up to around the first, then maybe second, then occassional third light. Is my gentle way of doing warming up good or bad for an engine of this type or doesn't it really matter?
Ignoring temperatures, as far as oil pressures are concerned, all the Owners Manual goes on to say is>
"Do not run the engine under load if .....the oil pressure when up to temperature at 4000rpm is under 50psi."
Does anyone have a more comprehensive set of figures of what one should expect/like to see when the engine is being used 'in anger'? For example, what pressure should there be at say maximum revs, say sixth light on - last one before the first of the two reds that truth be told, I generally deliberately avoid ever illuminating as a Trackday Slow Bloke - when presumably the oil pressure reaches it's maximum?
At hot hot hot Dony last Thursday, after about ten laps or so (so not far off a race distance - at a way slower pace as I was driving!), at the end, ours was showing near enough spot on 50psi @ 4000rpm (oil & water temps all OK, Kenlowe kicks in at about 82 degC from memory), whereas previously (non Sahara temperature levels), it has shown near enough spot on 60psi @ 4000rpm. Just due to the very high air temperatures? What did surprise me (read worry me) was just how low the pressure was on effectively tickover making my way back to the roasting ground (sorry, paddock); just low single figures, although it quickly picked back up with a bit of blipping. Thoughts/what do others see on their digital gauges?
The other thing that surprised me was just how little fuel we seemed to use compared to a less hot day at Silverstone, GP Circuit.
Owners Manual says>
"The oil pressure when the engine is started should run at 90psi at 4000rpm. When up to temperature the oil pressure should read 60psi at 4000rpm."
I have no idea whether ours 'makes' 90psi at 4000rpm (first light on) on start-up, as a combination of not wishing to alienate the neighbours (when at home) and my (probably old-fashioned) mechanical 'sensibilities' all go against revving something to that level when 'cold'. I get ours started and then hold it at a fast idle, I'd guess about 2500rpm? When the water temperature finally starts to read (45degC from memory), I then 'tickle/blip it' up to around the first, then maybe second, then occassional third light. Is my gentle way of doing warming up good or bad for an engine of this type or doesn't it really matter?
Ignoring temperatures, as far as oil pressures are concerned, all the Owners Manual goes on to say is>
"Do not run the engine under load if .....the oil pressure when up to temperature at 4000rpm is under 50psi."
Does anyone have a more comprehensive set of figures of what one should expect/like to see when the engine is being used 'in anger'? For example, what pressure should there be at say maximum revs, say sixth light on - last one before the first of the two reds that truth be told, I generally deliberately avoid ever illuminating as a Trackday Slow Bloke - when presumably the oil pressure reaches it's maximum?
At hot hot hot Dony last Thursday, after about ten laps or so (so not far off a race distance - at a way slower pace as I was driving!), at the end, ours was showing near enough spot on 50psi @ 4000rpm (oil & water temps all OK, Kenlowe kicks in at about 82 degC from memory), whereas previously (non Sahara temperature levels), it has shown near enough spot on 60psi @ 4000rpm. Just due to the very high air temperatures? What did surprise me (read worry me) was just how low the pressure was on effectively tickover making my way back to the roasting ground (sorry, paddock); just low single figures, although it quickly picked back up with a bit of blipping. Thoughts/what do others see on their digital gauges?
The other thing that surprised me was just how little fuel we seemed to use compared to a less hot day at Silverstone, GP Circuit.
oil pressure in my experience gets higher on hotter days - oil thins out more i guess.
yes - when warm and at idle pressure drops right off - i tend to tickle the idle up to keep some level of pressure when warm.
fuel - prob due to silverstone wide/flat nature vs the sweeping up/downs of donington maeaning you were not flat chat as much at donington maybe ?
yes - when warm and at idle pressure drops right off - i tend to tickle the idle up to keep some level of pressure when warm.
fuel - prob due to silverstone wide/flat nature vs the sweeping up/downs of donington maeaning you were not flat chat as much at donington maybe ?
Oil pressure will drop as the temp goes up as the oil gets thinner.
Ideally when you first start the car from cold the tick over pressure will be around 80-90psi. As the engine warms this will start to drop. On full chat the pressure should be 70+ for a healthy engine. A tired engine will read lower, anything lower than 60psi is probably due a refresh. Pressures are dependant a bit on thickness of oil, 15W15 for example will show a higher cold pressure than 10W40.
Tickover on a hot engine can see it drop below 15psi, this is normal but I did tended to up the tick over to compensate to keep it higher rather than low.
The only additional note I would make is not to always believe your gauge, having a second gauge you can "plug" in sometimes will confirm the accuracy of the main one.
One note about warming the engine up, the oil temp is the one to be looking at as that takes a considerable time longer to warm up than oil. Times like these is when an additional rad fan can help.
Ideally when you first start the car from cold the tick over pressure will be around 80-90psi. As the engine warms this will start to drop. On full chat the pressure should be 70+ for a healthy engine. A tired engine will read lower, anything lower than 60psi is probably due a refresh. Pressures are dependant a bit on thickness of oil, 15W15 for example will show a higher cold pressure than 10W40.
Tickover on a hot engine can see it drop below 15psi, this is normal but I did tended to up the tick over to compensate to keep it higher rather than low.
The only additional note I would make is not to always believe your gauge, having a second gauge you can "plug" in sometimes will confirm the accuracy of the main one.
One note about warming the engine up, the oil temp is the one to be looking at as that takes a considerable time longer to warm up than oil. Times like these is when an additional rad fan can help.
Funny cove, fuel consumption.
Brands Hatch, early November - cold - standard R1 engined Speads.
20 full wet laps with everything blanked off (but still a cool engine) 56(ish) lap times. 0.88 litres per minute.
Later, 20 drying laps, slightly warmer engine, 50(ish) lap times. 0.544 litres per minute.
So, on that basis, faster = better fuel consumption. Except if the engine's cooler....
Like I say. Funny cove, fuel consumption.
Brands Hatch, early November - cold - standard R1 engined Speads.
20 full wet laps with everything blanked off (but still a cool engine) 56(ish) lap times. 0.88 litres per minute.
Later, 20 drying laps, slightly warmer engine, 50(ish) lap times. 0.544 litres per minute.
So, on that basis, faster = better fuel consumption. Except if the engine's cooler....
Like I say. Funny cove, fuel consumption.
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