Repacking exhaust ??
Discussion
Check with Dario on he is getting on with his new stuff.
Otherwise you need ....
Some of this - http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1577/STAINLESS-...
and some of this - http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1502/E-GLASS-SI...
Wirewool around the perforated tube to about 1/4" thick. Then wrap in the packing sheet, not to tight, usually about 3 layers max iirc. Add a bit rolled up in the top and bottom of the can i.e. in the caps around there the inlet and outlet pipes are. Secret is not to do it to tight otherwise the sound can't penetrate the wadding and thus it doesn't silence as well.
Otherwise you need ....
Some of this - http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1577/STAINLESS-...
and some of this - http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1502/E-GLASS-SI...
Wirewool around the perforated tube to about 1/4" thick. Then wrap in the packing sheet, not to tight, usually about 3 layers max iirc. Add a bit rolled up in the top and bottom of the can i.e. in the caps around there the inlet and outlet pipes are. Secret is not to do it to tight otherwise the sound can't penetrate the wadding and thus it doesn't silence as well.
i did my first track day at Cadwell wark on Friday with the new packing.
it passed the 105 db test, but i have no idea what the noise level was.
i will only be able to tell how good this high temperature wadding is when i strip the thing down.
it was amazing to see 2.1 m of wadding fit in to the race can!!!!
it passed the 105 db test, but i have no idea what the noise level was.
i will only be able to tell how good this high temperature wadding is when i strip the thing down.
it was amazing to see 2.1 m of wadding fit in to the race can!!!!
Dario
Just checked your post on this; you were going to post some installation pics on this?
From the pic on Ebay (and looking at the manufacturer's pics / pdfs etc), seems like this material expands a heck of a lot under first exhaust heat. The E Bayer told you you needed to put in that much (which you damn nearly managed) - was it (that amount) right? Did you check with the manufacturers of the actual product? Just seems a heck of a lot to me, particularly when Merlin sell their E Glass at 1m square.
Also wondering that if Acousta-fil expands that much, although it's not normally required for E Glass packing, whether there should be a stainless steel sock around the perforated pipe? Else the perforated pipe gets a bit bunged up which can't be good for reducing noise?
Spotted an outfit online that web features Acousta-fil; they have one other item on that particular page; yep, a knitted stainless steel perforated pipe sock.
By the way, anyone know whether Radical still do an exchange silencer service?; certainly they used to and it was 'only' about a third the cost of buying a new silencer from them.
One other point while we're on the subject: the race exhaust is rivetted, but the quiet exhaust is welded. How do people deal with that quiet exhaust
when it needs re-packing?
Just checked your post on this; you were going to post some installation pics on this?
From the pic on Ebay (and looking at the manufacturer's pics / pdfs etc), seems like this material expands a heck of a lot under first exhaust heat. The E Bayer told you you needed to put in that much (which you damn nearly managed) - was it (that amount) right? Did you check with the manufacturers of the actual product? Just seems a heck of a lot to me, particularly when Merlin sell their E Glass at 1m square.
Also wondering that if Acousta-fil expands that much, although it's not normally required for E Glass packing, whether there should be a stainless steel sock around the perforated pipe? Else the perforated pipe gets a bit bunged up which can't be good for reducing noise?
Spotted an outfit online that web features Acousta-fil; they have one other item on that particular page; yep, a knitted stainless steel perforated pipe sock.
By the way, anyone know whether Radical still do an exchange silencer service?; certainly they used to and it was 'only' about a third the cost of buying a new silencer from them.
One other point while we're on the subject: the race exhaust is rivetted, but the quiet exhaust is welded. How do people deal with that quiet exhaust
when it needs re-packing?
splitpin said:
One other point while we're on the subject: the race exhaust is rivetted, but the quiet exhaust is welded. How do people deal with that quiet exhaust
when it needs re-packing?
My understanding is that the quiet exhausts don't need re-packing so must be baffled rather than wadded. But happy to be corrected when it needs re-packing?
nick997 said:
splitpin said:
One other point while we're on the subject: the race exhaust is rivetted, but the quiet exhaust is welded. How do people deal with that quiet exhaust
when it needs re-packing?
My understanding is that the quiet exhausts don't need re-packing so must be baffled rather than wadded. But happy to be corrected when it needs re-packing?
splitpin said:
I'd like to think you're right Nick, but I'm not sure ................. took my quiet exhaust (previous older tea pot style like yours) up with me to Radical a while ago (not used since) and said to Paul Widnall "Is this OK?". Paul kind of weighed it up by hand, shook it up and down, it didn't make any noise and said that's fine, as new, good to go. That kind of suggests to me that a shot one makes that hundereds and thousands loose bit rattly noise; that (like a race exhaust) a quiet silencer has a packing (be that E Glass or Basalt) that gradually deteriorates.
Or the baffles break down with age (rust) like a normal car exhaust perhaps? Changing subject, will you be at Brands at all over the weekend, I'm there on Saturday?
Have spoken to Radical >
They used to do re-packs and offer an exchange exhaust service, but no longer do. (Bugger)
The quiet exhaust does have wrap type 'wadding' within, which does deteriorate over time/heat cycle; having welded ends (on the quiet box) rather than rivetted ends (on the race box) makes the outer that much more airtight, which improves sound reduction and helps the wadding last longer.
A new quiet exhaust should do it's job for about a year, whereupon one end could be ground off, the silencer repacked and re-welded ........ (this is me articulating) if firstly, you can find someone who can do it (cutting and welding thin wall stainless steel is not something every fabricator can do) and if they can, they won't charge you like a wounded rhino. (Bugger & Bugger)
They used to do re-packs and offer an exchange exhaust service, but no longer do. (Bugger)
The quiet exhaust does have wrap type 'wadding' within, which does deteriorate over time/heat cycle; having welded ends (on the quiet box) rather than rivetted ends (on the race box) makes the outer that much more airtight, which improves sound reduction and helps the wadding last longer.
A new quiet exhaust should do it's job for about a year, whereupon one end could be ground off, the silencer repacked and re-welded ........ (this is me articulating) if firstly, you can find someone who can do it (cutting and welding thin wall stainless steel is not something every fabricator can do) and if they can, they won't charge you like a wounded rhino. (Bugger & Bugger)
Not sure where you are, But Chris Tullett in Aylesbury will generally try that little bit harder than most to help you.
www.christullettexhausts.com
Graham
www.christullettexhausts.com
Graham
splitpin said:
Have spoken to Radical >
The quiet exhaust does have wrap type 'wadding' within, which does deteriorate over time/heat cycle; having welded ends (on the quiet box) rather than rivetted ends (on the race box) makes the outer that much more airtight, which improves sound reduction and helps the wadding last longer.
I bow to yours and Radical's superior knowledge The quiet exhaust does have wrap type 'wadding' within, which does deteriorate over time/heat cycle; having welded ends (on the quiet box) rather than rivetted ends (on the race box) makes the outer that much more airtight, which improves sound reduction and helps the wadding last longer.
lanan said:
Not sure where you are, But Chris Tullett in Aylesbury will generally try that little bit harder than most to help you.
www.christullettexhausts.com
Graham
Cheers Graham: Do you know whether Chris does repacks on boxes not supplied by him? www.christullettexhausts.com
Graham
I have gone through the original owner's comprehensive invoices record (thanks Nig, boy does it help when someone has taken the time and trouble to keep proper records! BTW, I am continuing to do likewise, but that won't come as a surprise) and there are three repack invoices from two outfits a bit more up north, both of whom still seem to be around. The latest is easily more than a couple of years old, but taking a guess on what exhausts cost outright then, I'd take a punt that if it held good now, it could work out at about three repacks by guys like them for the cost of new exhaust bought 'outright'.
As all the exhausts I've looked at, even the shot ones, seemed to be in first class order as a basic outer case, I'm going to look further into people who repack ,,,, mustn't (can't!) overdue this sustainability thingie as a Radical owner, but it'd be nice to take another small step back from this 'throw everything away' age we live in; this sort of recycling would suit me just fine ............... morally, ethically and even more importantly, in terms of my hard-earned!
nick997 said:
splitpin said:
Have spoken to Radical >
The quiet exhaust does have wrap type 'wadding' within, which does deteriorate over time/heat cycle; having welded ends (on the quiet box) rather than rivetted ends (on the race box) makes the outer that much more airtight, which improves sound reduction and helps the wadding last longer.
I bow to yours and Radical's superior knowledge The quiet exhaust does have wrap type 'wadding' within, which does deteriorate over time/heat cycle; having welded ends (on the quiet box) rather than rivetted ends (on the race box) makes the outer that much more airtight, which improves sound reduction and helps the wadding last longer.
Not sure where this topic has got to and this is my first post on PH but for what it's worth here goes.
I have a Radical SR4 which I use for Sprints, Hillclimbs and trackdays. Noise was always a problem and I gave up with the standard SR4 silencer some time ago and bought a Roy Lane - Techcraft silencer which sticks out the back a bit but which also passes the noise tests even at Goodwood. The silencer has a series of allen bolts around the cap at the exit end of the pipe and I repacked it this year with silencer wadding bought from Demon Tweeks - 20 minutes done!
There was some space left as I did not pack it too tightly. Passed easly. David Watson
I have a Radical SR4 which I use for Sprints, Hillclimbs and trackdays. Noise was always a problem and I gave up with the standard SR4 silencer some time ago and bought a Roy Lane - Techcraft silencer which sticks out the back a bit but which also passes the noise tests even at Goodwood. The silencer has a series of allen bolts around the cap at the exit end of the pipe and I repacked it this year with silencer wadding bought from Demon Tweeks - 20 minutes done!
There was some space left as I did not pack it too tightly. Passed easly. David Watson
nick997 said:
Now there's a question! As low as possible to satisfy the man with the sound meter on the day. Try around 7000 to 7500 to be safe at most places. Where's that "open can of worms" smiley...
Alan, like Nick says, a can of worms. I'll email you Chart 24 from The Blue Book; that'll give you a clue ............. and Nick's right, for races (and most Trackday Organisers utilise the same), it should be circa 7.5k. However ............. see my email !Gassing Station | Radical | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff