Next Dunlop tyre question!
Discussion
Brands Hatch left me with the outer third of the front nearside tyre worn quite badly, so I guess more camber would be the order of the day next time.........
What's the crack with having the tyre turned around on the rim so that the worn side is running inboard & the greater tread depth side is on the outside? Is that something that you do, or is that frowned upon?
What's the crack with having the tyre turned around on the rim so that the worn side is running inboard & the greater tread depth side is on the outside? Is that something that you do, or is that frowned upon?
I can't say specifically for the Dunlops but we used to do this in karting on one brand of tyres. Most brands specifically did not recommend it though as they are manufactured to be used in a single direction. If this is the case with the Dunlops you probably don't want to be trying it out in a Radical, having a tyre failure somewhere like the entry to Paddock doesn't really bear thinking about.
Nick
Nick
dsl2 said:
Cheers Simon,
Take it thats a better option than turning the tyre round on the existing rim then? I had not even thought of doing it your way!
Have you tried this solution to excessive outer edge tyre wear yourself with any success at all?
That still means demounting and remounting. If you do one and keep it on the same side it's rotating the other way. If you swap both fronts, they end up rotating the same way.Take it thats a better option than turning the tyre round on the existing rim then? I had not even thought of doing it your way!
Have you tried this solution to excessive outer edge tyre wear yourself with any success at all?
Bert
Jeez guys it's not that complicated... 
The rotation direction needs to remain the same as in the original fitment that's all
Simon
And yes I have It's fine but you still neet to take into account the heat cycles and it only really works if you are running lots of camber. If you wore out the outside edge of the LF that could be too much understeer or a low tyre pressure?
The rotation direction needs to remain the same as in the original fitment that's all
Simon
And yes I have It's fine but you still neet to take into account the heat cycles and it only really works if you are running lots of camber. If you wore out the outside edge of the LF that could be too much understeer or a low tyre pressure?
Edited by Simon T on Tuesday 5th May 21:29
Simon,
Tyre pressures were guessed from cold as being on my jack at Brands I was not able to set them accurately so you may be bang on with the low pressures being the cause of excessive wear.
The tyres felt shot hence the first tyre question a few days back, I was struggling to stay ahead of the Speads with lots of understeer which won't of helped the wear much either!
Tyre pressures were guessed from cold as being on my jack at Brands I was not able to set them accurately so you may be bang on with the low pressures being the cause of excessive wear.
The tyres felt shot hence the first tyre question a few days back, I was struggling to stay ahead of the Speads with lots of understeer which won't of helped the wear much either!
dsl2 said:
Simon,
Tyre pressures were guessed from cold as being on my jack at Brands I was not able to set them accurately so you may be bang on with the low pressures being the cause of excessive wear.
The tyres felt shot hence the first tyre question a few days back, I was struggling to stay ahead of the Speads with lots of understeer which won't of helped the wear much either!
On the basis of 'every little might help/something's better than nothing', if you find yourself on your lonesome again and can (have to) ask someone for a quick favour, couple of suggestions, in fact alternatives > Here's the first, I'll come back soon and edit in the second >Tyre pressures were guessed from cold as being on my jack at Brands I was not able to set them accurately so you may be bang on with the low pressures being the cause of excessive wear.
The tyres felt shot hence the first tyre question a few days back, I was struggling to stay ahead of the Speads with lots of understeer which won't of helped the wear much either!
http://www.worksafedepot.co.uk/product_details.asp...
Here's the second (top one); by today's generally pi55 poor standards really nicely made bit of kit, fast and accurate; can be preset for Psi/Bar (or the other I can't remember right now!!!), small enough to be carried in top pocket of racing suit and produced in a flash with the words ................ excuse me, can you possibly just whip round and call out my tyre pressures please? BTW, pasting in this page just to show you which one I'm talking about (have got); got mine from Halfords I recollect but couldn't see it on their website.
http://www.twenga.co.uk/dir-Cars-Motorbikes,Mainte...
Edited by splitpin on Wednesday 6th May 16:00
Darren/Splitpin
I hate to be a killjoy, but I would only ever want to fit proper all metal construction tyre valves to anything that even resembles a racing car. These 'Standard Airchecker Tyre Pressure Indicator' jobs are toys for men in hats.
Also, according to the details on the link, the tyre valves are not available in the pressure ranges that interest us (early 20s (hot)) and - even if they were - it rather looks like you would have to change your tyre valves every time the weather, track conditions, or anything else that might effect your achievable hot tyre pressures changed (which might be a bit of a pain).
The Michelin pressure gauge is light, cheap and works(ish) for track days.
I hate to be a killjoy, but I would only ever want to fit proper all metal construction tyre valves to anything that even resembles a racing car. These 'Standard Airchecker Tyre Pressure Indicator' jobs are toys for men in hats.
Also, according to the details on the link, the tyre valves are not available in the pressure ranges that interest us (early 20s (hot)) and - even if they were - it rather looks like you would have to change your tyre valves every time the weather, track conditions, or anything else that might effect your achievable hot tyre pressures changed (which might be a bit of a pain).
The Michelin pressure gauge is light, cheap and works(ish) for track days.
Count Johnny said:
... according to the details on the link, the tyre valves are not available in the pressure ranges that interest us (early 20s (hot)) and ...
Not so as far as I am aware: Radical Safety Bulletin 30 April 2008 recommended 18/20 psi cold and and 28 psi hot for both front and rear on high downforce PR6s(and SR4) thus applicable to Darren. Early 20s hot (still and only) applies to non high downforce spec, meaning as far as an SR4 is concerned front splitter attached to therefore removed with front bodywork and single plane rear spoiler.Count Johnny said:
splitpin said:
high downforce PR6s(and SR4)...non high downforce spec...
I put Radical and 'high downforce' in the same category as I put Powertec and 205bhp from their 1300S 'Busa.Do you not have to change your springs, then?
You know, when you fit Radical's 'high downforce' pack.
I saw a system advertised like the one on this link a few months ago and thought it would be excellant for racing to be able to check pressure and temp of tyre's..
http://www.tyresave.co.uk/smartire.html
http://www.tyresave.co.uk/smartire.html
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