Removing Engine From SR3
Discussion
I am about to remove the engine from my SR3 for a refresh. My question for the technically competent among you is how do you disconnect the 'Busa engine/gearbox from the transfer box? Also any other tips on how to accomplish the engine removal process would be most welcome. Is there a technical manual available?
I used to be able to take the engine out of my Formula Ford car in 15 to 20 minutes. I think the job on the Radical will be a bit longer!
Chris
I used to be able to take the engine out of my Formula Ford car in 15 to 20 minutes. I think the job on the Radical will be a bit longer!
Chris
Not directly comparable, but useful as a guide I hope-
Removed the engine from my PR6 for the first time yesterday. That took me under 3.5 hrs including draining all the fluids (and cleaning up the mess!) that was with taking my time & labeling all the important bits, so not too daunting to be honest.
I had no manual just worked my way round it.
Bet it takes a shed load longer to put the new one back in though...............
Removed the engine from my PR6 for the first time yesterday. That took me under 3.5 hrs including draining all the fluids (and cleaning up the mess!) that was with taking my time & labeling all the important bits, so not too daunting to be honest.
I had no manual just worked my way round it.
Bet it takes a shed load longer to put the new one back in though...............
jpivey said:
Darren
I would have come over and given you a hand as because of snow work was cancelled let me know when you get the 300 bhp motor if i'm around will help fit it if you want a hand that is. payment (tea - biscuits).
Jon Paul is a shining example of what us Radical Guys are all about - go on for example the Porsche Forum if you want to see the other side of the coin? - keen to help one another in an enthusiastic way. Very commendable I would have come over and given you a hand as because of snow work was cancelled let me know when you get the 300 bhp motor if i'm around will help fit it if you want a hand that is. payment (tea - biscuits).
I'm also in the Midlands (West) so let me know if an extra extra pair of hands is needed.
I think JP may get the opportunity - happened to spot a squirrel today and despite now being post-hibernation, he was busy burying his nuts (no, not in another squirrel!), so I reckon we could be in for some more severe stuff, notwithstanding just a smattering today. These critters know things that us humans don't.
Other thoughts >
If just engine out and back in, (unless there's a problem with it) no need to remove 'transfer box' assuming that means the 'Quaife'?
Rumour has it that some real Tech Gods will be helping us along at the ROC Inaugural Trackday: I've heard the name Phil Quaife mentioned..........that'd be good.........having guys around that can answer all those questions that flit in and out of a Radical Owner's mind.
Finally, flippin'eck 300bhp..............Nick; got some of those 'brave pills' going spare?...........!
If you've done it a few times then you can get an engine out in under an hour. No need to remove the Quaife unit. I would advice disconnecting the reverse cable though as this can get caught and if it snaps they are bloody expensive. To remove you need to unclip the cable from the lever end then you can undo the diff end.
To remove the engine remove all hoses then the front engine mounts, you only need to swing these out of the way and not remove them completely. Remove the exhaust headers as well. Helps if you now support the engine either with a jack underneath it or a lift (if using a jack its a two man job, one person can do it if using a engine lift). Depending on the tolerance of the frame vs the chassis you might have additional shims on the rear mounts, check for these before removing the bolts. Remove to top rear engine mount bolt then the bottom one. You will notice a spacer in the bottom one, knock this out. I'd recommend having a long drift (or something similar) for pushing these bolts out as they will be tight as Radical tend to put them in dry so they sieze up. You should know be able to swivel the engine away from the quaife unit. Catch all the little cush-drive things as they will go all over the place, particularly if they are broken. Once you are away from the quaife you can life the engine, it will need a twist or two but it will lift out.
To remove the engine remove all hoses then the front engine mounts, you only need to swing these out of the way and not remove them completely. Remove the exhaust headers as well. Helps if you now support the engine either with a jack underneath it or a lift (if using a jack its a two man job, one person can do it if using a engine lift). Depending on the tolerance of the frame vs the chassis you might have additional shims on the rear mounts, check for these before removing the bolts. Remove to top rear engine mount bolt then the bottom one. You will notice a spacer in the bottom one, knock this out. I'd recommend having a long drift (or something similar) for pushing these bolts out as they will be tight as Radical tend to put them in dry so they sieze up. You should know be able to swivel the engine away from the quaife unit. Catch all the little cush-drive things as they will go all over the place, particularly if they are broken. Once you are away from the quaife you can life the engine, it will need a twist or two but it will lift out.
Rob is dead right about that long bolt not being copper slipped, was a bit of a job, but a long drift & out she popped.
Don't get too hung up on the 300bhp reference, its only mates winding each other up! Its just a tuned 1300cc so in all probability around 20bhp better than a standard motor I guess, but as Tesco say every little helps!!!
Don't get too hung up on the 300bhp reference, its only mates winding each other up! Its just a tuned 1300cc so in all probability around 20bhp better than a standard motor I guess, but as Tesco say every little helps!!!
chrissimp said:
Many thanks for that Rob, that is most helpful. The only thing I am not sure about now is disconnecting engine/gearbox from the Quaife box - is it just a matter of pulling the engine sideways in line with the engine output shaft?
300bhp in a PR06 - wow!
At the lever end there is a bugger of a clip that is a pain to get off and a bigger pain to get back on 300bhp in a PR06 - wow!
At the gearbox end it just screws into the diff, you'll need a couple of spanners. One to turn it and one to hold it while you reposition the first. [quote=chrissimp]Many thanks for that Rob, that is most helpful. The only thing I am not sure about now is disconnecting engine/gearbox from the Quaife box - is it just a matter of pulling the engine sideways in line with the engine output shaft?
yes, it is just a coupling - it just splits & there are nylon drive pins in between the fingers.
took ours out back end of last year for refresh, took a steady morning to do ( with tea breaks of course ) take good note of where oil pipes, wires, etc, go before taking them off, we did drawings & took plenty of photo's - always good for reference when putting engine back in, as it will be a few weeks before you do that and things aren't always so memorable !!!! or is that my age LOL
yes, it is just a coupling - it just splits & there are nylon drive pins in between the fingers.
took ours out back end of last year for refresh, took a steady morning to do ( with tea breaks of course ) take good note of where oil pipes, wires, etc, go before taking them off, we did drawings & took plenty of photo's - always good for reference when putting engine back in, as it will be a few weeks before you do that and things aren't always so memorable !!!! or is that my age LOL
This might help, it makes it much easier to seperate/align the engine/Diff
disconnect everything except the rear cradle top and bottom bolts
Support bottom of engine with a jack (or engine hoist)
Keep the top bolt tight
Undo the bottom bolt, take out the spacer, put the bolt back
Undo the top bolt, take out the spacer, put the bolt back
You can now slide the engine to the right side. This will disengage the output shaft from the diff unit (watch out for the 8 drive pins - they are £8 each!)
Take out the bolts and lift the engine out
Fitting is the exact reverse
The pins usually break on the lug that locates into the drive. The lugs are only used to hold the pins in place during assembly. you can stick them in with grease if the lug is broken off
Drop me a mail if you need any help over the phone
Cheers
Simon
www.tillingmotorsport.com
disconnect everything except the rear cradle top and bottom bolts
Support bottom of engine with a jack (or engine hoist)
Keep the top bolt tight
Undo the bottom bolt, take out the spacer, put the bolt back
Undo the top bolt, take out the spacer, put the bolt back
You can now slide the engine to the right side. This will disengage the output shaft from the diff unit (watch out for the 8 drive pins - they are £8 each!)
Take out the bolts and lift the engine out
Fitting is the exact reverse
The pins usually break on the lug that locates into the drive. The lugs are only used to hold the pins in place during assembly. you can stick them in with grease if the lug is broken off
Drop me a mail if you need any help over the phone
Cheers
Simon
www.tillingmotorsport.com
My pleasure. I have some schematics for the SR3 that might help. Drop me a mail and I'll send them on
Simon
www.tillingmotorsport.com
Simon
www.tillingmotorsport.com
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