What does this actualy mean please?

What does this actualy mean please?

Author
Discussion

911hillclimber

Original Poster:

486 posts

201 months

Tuesday 20th January 2009
quotequote all
I need your help again!
Getting my Lola Porsche together and I'm not sure about the spring rates on the car.
The Lola with a Pinto engine had '7A-250' and '9C-300' rear.

The figures are bound to be lb/inch (car is 485 Kg dry with the pinto engine) but what does 7A and 9C stand for?

The rears are a huge 550lb/inch at present.....



Thanks, Graham.


lanan

814 posts

234 months

Tuesday 20th January 2009
quotequote all
Graham,
That will be the open length of the spring in inches.

Graham

.

911hillclimber

Original Poster:

486 posts

201 months

Tuesday 20th January 2009
quotequote all
OK: seems sensible, but what about the A and the C suffixes?

They normally have the inside diameter specified

300lb/inch x 9'' free length x 2.25'' (say)
Nearly all coil overs have ground flat ends and of a linear rate.

The spring on the rear of the car now are '550 x 8 inch' x 2.25 which seems mighty hard to me for a little 550Kg car?

The original Lola T 490 had a Pinto engine and weighed 480Kg (1056lb)
I think the 911 engine is about 200Kg and the Pinto 160Kg (both unconfirmed)

Thanks for the help, Graham.

RobC

967 posts

290 months

Tuesday 20th January 2009
quotequote all
Used to run 700lbs on the rear of my old Radical, that was with the aero package though

911hillclimber

Original Poster:

486 posts

201 months

Tuesday 20th January 2009
quotequote all
That sounds hard!
Most hillclimbs are very smooth but can be quite undulating and 'corck-screw' in 'topography' plus hairpins etc. so easy to get quite a twist in the car and hence to lift any wheel(s)
You need the suspension to drop to the gaps and compress quickly too. Lots of power on and full braking.

Certainly no aero on this car!

BertBert

19,539 posts

217 months

Tuesday 20th January 2009
quotequote all
Graham, what's the weight distribution of your Lola? Lots more at the back than the front.
Bert not Graham

SportsLibre

590 posts

218 months

Tuesday 20th January 2009
quotequote all
Yes for the hills you will want to go (a lot?) softer. Most of the guys on here are out racing or track days, the settings used bear no relation that required on the hills.

I would like to tell you what mine are, but the markings have worn off, however they are too hard and I really should get some softer.

On my mates hillclimber, he kept putting softer springs on and it kept getting better and better.

Simon T

2,136 posts

279 months

Tuesday 20th January 2009
quotequote all
Rob, perhaps that was rather more to do with the driver dimensions than the car ? wink
smilesmilesmilesmile

lanan

814 posts

234 months

Tuesday 20th January 2009
quotequote all
BertBert said:
Graham, what's the weight distribution of your Lola? Lots more at the back than the front.
Bert not Graham
What he said..smile
Drop it on the scales and then we can start to generate some numbers.
But as has been said, Traction is what you hill / sprint chaps are gagging for and soft springs will help you get that.

another.. Graham..biggrin

911hillclimber

Original Poster:

486 posts

201 months

Wednesday 21st January 2009
quotequote all
Appreciate your inputs, Radical site always come up trumps with real thinking.

The 911 is about 80 lb heavier than the iron Pinto (I think).
The LOLA is sprung 250 front and 300 rear (for a track), so suggesting a spring to the rear of 320 and 240 fr could be a softer starting point(?)

The car is not in a postion to go to a weightbridge, so this will be an estimate at this stage.

I'm sure 550 in the rear is too stiff.

This car was a super saloon (a mid engined Skoda no less) in the past and I think I have the springs from that era, but they are in very good condition, so could be new. The previous owner had not hillclimbed before, but circuit raced in other Sports 2000 cars.

nick997

609 posts

214 months

Wednesday 21st January 2009
quotequote all
Simon T said:
Rob, perhaps that was rather more to do with the driver dimensions than the car ? wink
smilesmilesmilesmile
smash Naughty naugthy Simon, don't go upsetting Guru Rob, us mere mortals need his extensive Radical knowledge from time to time.

Got an Uncle Graham.

911hillclimber

Original Poster:

486 posts

201 months

Wednesday 21st January 2009
quotequote all
Just how many Grahams are there?
When I was a mere lad yonks ago it was an unusual name, flippin' everywhere now.

I know 3 + me...

lanan

814 posts

234 months

Wednesday 21st January 2009
quotequote all
I would suggest you start with your 300. They may be a little light, but I think a better starting point than the 550.

Graham

911hillclimber

Original Poster:

486 posts

201 months

Wednesday 21st January 2009
quotequote all
Thanks, I have reached the same conclusion this afternoon.
From what I can find on the net, the 911 and Pinto engines weigh almost the same, but the 911 gearbox is 7 Kg heavier than the Mk 9 Hewland.
At 300 it should be supple and they are not hard/expensive to change.

I hope the front is 250lb/in, but if not I will change those too.

Thank you for the help, Graham.

Simon T

2,136 posts

279 months

Wednesday 21st January 2009
quotequote all
HA! I've done a lot more to upset 'Guru Rob' than that, and visa versa. We spent two years swapping paint, I am sure he can take it
Simon

chrissimp

170 posts

228 months

Thursday 22nd January 2009
quotequote all
Wouldn't the shock settings also be relevant in this case - ie softer settings for the hills?

Chris

DaveK-S1

286 posts

207 months

Thursday 22nd January 2009
quotequote all
Graham

I reply to your original question the A & c simply mean they are 2.25" internal price, its not a secret masonic code smile

Dave

911hillclimber

Original Poster:

486 posts

201 months

Thursday 22nd January 2009
quotequote all
Thanks Dave. Will call you for a set soon once I know what the fronts are.
Did you buy a Radical?

As to the damping: The koni's are adjustable so i hope the range will cope with the lighter springs.

To re-build (so re-valve) the Konis it is £100 a corner minimum, so might as well buy some new modern ones instead.