centre lock nuts/hubs grease ??
Discussion
Hi Guys,
having severe difficulty removing the centre lock nuts on the car.. have got one off with much persuasion....
i know its important to keep the mating surfaces clean & dry etc.. but does it help if the actual threads are greased ? and if so what works best ??
so frustrating not being able to take wheels off/on easily...
having severe difficulty removing the centre lock nuts on the car.. have got one off with much persuasion....
i know its important to keep the mating surfaces clean & dry etc.. but does it help if the actual threads are greased ? and if so what works best ??
so frustrating not being able to take wheels off/on easily...
Steel, water and ally don't really get on well together.
We use this sparingly to clean the threads.
http://www.zx1store.co.uk/departments.cfm?id=3
.
We use this sparingly to clean the threads.
http://www.zx1store.co.uk/departments.cfm?id=3
.
1. A good clean with brake cleaner and a toothbrush to get all the crud out of the threads on both the hub and the nut
2. Remove any burrs or pick up on the mating surfaces of the wheel and the hub with fine wet and dry, you should aim for a very smooth matt finish
3. A LIGHT coating of WD40 on the threads and the mating surfaces
4. 200 220ft/lbs of torque
5. Repeat after every session
Works for us every time
Simon
www.tillingmotorsport.com
2. Remove any burrs or pick up on the mating surfaces of the wheel and the hub with fine wet and dry, you should aim for a very smooth matt finish
3. A LIGHT coating of WD40 on the threads and the mating surfaces
4. 200 220ft/lbs of torque
5. Repeat after every session
Works for us every time
Simon
www.tillingmotorsport.com
911hillclimber said:
I have centre locks on my Lola sports Racer, about 5/8 UNF at a guess (1 1/8'' AF nuts)(old car , so imperial)
Why do you need such a high torque? Never realy understood why, and 200+ Lbft is a crazy number to apply even with the brakes on.
Because anything less the poxy things come undone Why do you need such a high torque? Never realy understood why, and 200+ Lbft is a crazy number to apply even with the brakes on.
well.. i've been looking at it, and chatted to the guy that helsp me with set up etc, and he reckons there is enough meat there to drill through from the back of the current centres, and then use a some other tool to bore out a flat surface... and use studs with sleeved bolts through the new holes in teh wheel..
I just need to take off the centre lock hubs to see if there is a centre retainer for the wheel to locate into - if not would need a spacer made up with centre locator for the wheel to catch on...
depends on the cost/feasibility of doing this.. but personally these centre lock wheels are a total pain, no wonder the PR06 went back to 4 stud !!
I just need to take off the centre lock hubs to see if there is a centre retainer for the wheel to locate into - if not would need a spacer made up with centre locator for the wheel to catch on...
depends on the cost/feasibility of doing this.. but personally these centre lock wheels are a total pain, no wonder the PR06 went back to 4 stud !!
Edited by gixermark on Wednesday 31st December 16:17
In defence of centre lock wheels..
If you've ever been waiting in the paddock to start a race when the weather changes you'd know why they are used
They are not a problem if you treat them right - a bit like adapting to a sequential gearbox after an H pattern
I recon the PR06 uses 4 studs because they are cheaper
Simon
If you've ever been waiting in the paddock to start a race when the weather changes you'd know why they are used
They are not a problem if you treat them right - a bit like adapting to a sequential gearbox after an H pattern
I recon the PR06 uses 4 studs because they are cheaper
Simon
Easier to swap your C/L for 4 stud flanges/stub shafts? (or even swap uprights?)
There is always some clearance between the drive pins and the holes in the wheels so the 'chatter' between the parts must ease-off the C/L nut or even wear free the C/L centre cone?
Maybe the more drive pins you have the better the play...?
My Lola's front hubs:
There is always some clearance between the drive pins and the holes in the wheels so the 'chatter' between the parts must ease-off the C/L nut or even wear free the C/L centre cone?
Maybe the more drive pins you have the better the play...?
My Lola's front hubs:
This kind of confirms one of those 'where on earth did that come from?' 'rules of thumbs' I've had in my worn-out brain for years................centre-locks best for racers, not centre-locks best for non-racers. Then I see that the 09 Model SR3 gets centre-locks as standard......Doh! 
been out for first test day - all wheels and nuts properly cleaned/treated as per Simon's advise, and to my delight - i was able to get the wheels on/off with the car just in gear - i.e. able to do it myself :-)
definately need to clean the threads/mating surfaces each time ideally, but it looks like its fairly straightforward with the right maintenance and tools :-)
definately need to clean the threads/mating surfaces each time ideally, but it looks like its fairly straightforward with the right maintenance and tools :-)
Can someone please confirm what socket size is required for the centre-locks? I measured it as 70mm but just want to be sure before i go buy one.
what material is the £110 radical socket? surely solid unobtainium at that price! just bought the car and don't want to damage the nuts using impact tools.
what material is the £110 radical socket? surely solid unobtainium at that price! just bought the car and don't want to damage the nuts using impact tools.
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