Clubsport brake pedalbox issue
Discussion
The bolt shown in the pic is slack connecting the two BMC actautors to the brake pedal. Not too sure if this is supposed to be tightened up or not? When moving the brake bias switch on the dash it doesn't feel very precise like its not achieving anything, there's no feel to it.
When looking at the pedal box I was expecting to see an obvious movement of the horizontal rod repositioning to push one BMC actuator in before the other but nothing obvious is happening and I can't see the difference in pedal movement in regards to the BMC's operating when adjusting with the dash bias switch.
Looks like I can adjust the bias on the two BMC actuator/rods themselves so not too fussed about that but really just concerned that this section is slack. It is brakes after all.
Pic of the slack bolt shown here, does this need tightened up, I can easily move it with my fingers. Excuse the poor pic.
Cheers,
Dunc.
When looking at the pedal box I was expecting to see an obvious movement of the horizontal rod repositioning to push one BMC actuator in before the other but nothing obvious is happening and I can't see the difference in pedal movement in regards to the BMC's operating when adjusting with the dash bias switch.
Looks like I can adjust the bias on the two BMC actuator/rods themselves so not too fussed about that but really just concerned that this section is slack. It is brakes after all.
Pic of the slack bolt shown here, does this need tightened up, I can easily move it with my fingers. Excuse the poor pic.
Cheers,
Dunc.
Hi Dunc,
I think the nut is the locking nut.
Probably only needs tightening up if you do not want to use the dashboard mounted bias adjuster.
When you turn the dash adjuster, the cable rotates the centre shaft of the bias bar and the sperical bearing inside the pedal slides inside the sleeve.
The positions of the yolks/rods to the master cylinders will stay in their same relative positions.
If you are running the Clubsport in speed events (Sprints & Hillclimbs) you will need to lock off the brake bias bar as you are not permitted to be able to adjust the bias whilst running.
So when are we going to see you out? Alford??
Douglas.
I think the nut is the locking nut.
Probably only needs tightening up if you do not want to use the dashboard mounted bias adjuster.
When you turn the dash adjuster, the cable rotates the centre shaft of the bias bar and the sperical bearing inside the pedal slides inside the sleeve.
The positions of the yolks/rods to the master cylinders will stay in their same relative positions.
If you are running the Clubsport in speed events (Sprints & Hillclimbs) you will need to lock off the brake bias bar as you are not permitted to be able to adjust the bias whilst running.
So when are we going to see you out? Alford??
Douglas.
So it's fine as it is then, just wanted to check - thanks 
Not too sure when I'll be at a sprint tbh, I had it up at Alford for a quick test before the first hsc round (Golspie) which I had entered but was then cancelled as you know. After that I took it round knockhill but it would only run properly after a lap or so then ran fine, even a small spell in the pits idling to check tyre pressures would have it running poorly when returning to the track. Pretty sure it was a heat related electrical problem and have been spending time playing around with the wiring etc since then and a few other tasks (oil, filter and brake fluid change etc). On top of that I had work to do to my 200sx prior to a trip to the Nurburgring.
I'm using it this weekend (but not at Alford) and after some rewiring I'm hoping it will be running sweet, couldn't have used it at a sprint if it was refusing to run properly off the starting blocks. Disappointed that I've not been along to any sprints yet but that's life.
Cheers for the advice,
Dunc.
Not too sure when I'll be at a sprint tbh, I had it up at Alford for a quick test before the first hsc round (Golspie) which I had entered but was then cancelled as you know. After that I took it round knockhill but it would only run properly after a lap or so then ran fine, even a small spell in the pits idling to check tyre pressures would have it running poorly when returning to the track. Pretty sure it was a heat related electrical problem and have been spending time playing around with the wiring etc since then and a few other tasks (oil, filter and brake fluid change etc). On top of that I had work to do to my 200sx prior to a trip to the Nurburgring.
I'm using it this weekend (but not at Alford) and after some rewiring I'm hoping it will be running sweet, couldn't have used it at a sprint if it was refusing to run properly off the starting blocks. Disappointed that I've not been along to any sprints yet but that's life.
Cheers for the advice,
Dunc.
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