Dry Sump Oil Levels
Discussion
Changed my oil and filter for the first time in my dry sumped SR4 today. I put in as much oil as I got out which at 4 litres was a litre or two less than I was expecting to find. Consulting the SR4 "manual" it shows a diagram of a dry sump tank with a side filler and advises to fill to 100mm below the top of the tank when the engine is running. Mine doesn't have a side filler and the tank is in two chambers, a main chamber which is about 150mm diameter and 250mm or so high with a much smaller chamber on top of about 75mm diameter, 100mm high. Anybody any hints on what level I should be filling to?
I jacked the car up as high as I could which just about meant I could get under the car but lock wiring the oil filter cover back on was a bit of a stretch. Do most of you lift the car up onto 2 foot high stands for a filter change or scrabble around on the floor like me?
Thanks
Nick
I jacked the car up as high as I could which just about meant I could get under the car but lock wiring the oil filter cover back on was a bit of a stretch. Do most of you lift the car up onto 2 foot high stands for a filter change or scrabble around on the floor like me?
Thanks
Nick
Nick
As you mentioned there should be more oil in there I would have thought (although all my experience is with Hayabusa engine so the ZX12 engine might take a bit less oil?) Did you drain the sump? this is where I'd expect the additional oil to be.
As for filling, this is from memory now so I might be wrong, but if you look in the filler you'll see a baffle plate with a hole in it. Basically you fill the tank until you are about an inch/inch and half below this baffle plate. Again this is on the Hayabusa dry sump tank so yours might be different. To be totally sure Radical will sell you a dry sump dip stick, or someone on here might be able to give you the dimensions of one as it's only a bent bit of ally with some markinging
For reference the Hayabusa takes about 6 litres
Dunno if any of that helps.
As you mentioned there should be more oil in there I would have thought (although all my experience is with Hayabusa engine so the ZX12 engine might take a bit less oil?) Did you drain the sump? this is where I'd expect the additional oil to be.
As for filling, this is from memory now so I might be wrong, but if you look in the filler you'll see a baffle plate with a hole in it. Basically you fill the tank until you are about an inch/inch and half below this baffle plate. Again this is on the Hayabusa dry sump tank so yours might be different. To be totally sure Radical will sell you a dry sump dip stick, or someone on here might be able to give you the dimensions of one as it's only a bent bit of ally with some markinging
For reference the Hayabusa takes about 6 litres
Dunno if any of that helps.
Hi guys no point in starting a new thread on such a similar subject, I'm changing the oil on my CS (ZZR1100 powertec) next w/e and was wondering if its just a std kawasaki oil filter that goes in and what year to ask for in the shop. I was going to go with 97/98 or something like that, sound reasonable?
I've not really changed the oil on a dry sumped engine before either.
Cheers,
Dunc.
I've not really changed the oil on a dry sumped engine before either.
Cheers,
Dunc.
Hi Rob
I followed your advice in another recent thread and drained the oil by removing the hose that runs from the dry sump tank to the engine - undid the engine end as that's lowest. I then took the filter out which released a bit more oil and with it out I would say the engine must be empty.
The filler is hard to look into because a piece of bodywork that supports the main rear bodywork sits right above the filler. I had to use a car dipstick to check the level so may have to go the radical dip stick route, i'm thinking a bent bit of metal should be maximum £5 so we're probably looking at £20 at Radical exchange rates. Still cheaper than a blown engine.
Out of interest, do you tend to put your car up on high chassis stands for a filter change - noting that the filter in the 1200 is in the bottom of the engine? If so do you think the higher ones here http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/index.php?man... are up to the job weight wise?
Thanks
Nick
I followed your advice in another recent thread and drained the oil by removing the hose that runs from the dry sump tank to the engine - undid the engine end as that's lowest. I then took the filter out which released a bit more oil and with it out I would say the engine must be empty.
The filler is hard to look into because a piece of bodywork that supports the main rear bodywork sits right above the filler. I had to use a car dipstick to check the level so may have to go the radical dip stick route, i'm thinking a bent bit of metal should be maximum £5 so we're probably looking at £20 at Radical exchange rates. Still cheaper than a blown engine.
Out of interest, do you tend to put your car up on high chassis stands for a filter change - noting that the filter in the 1200 is in the bottom of the engine? If so do you think the higher ones here http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/index.php?man... are up to the job weight wise?
Thanks
Nick
dunc_sx said:
Hi guys no point in starting a new thread on such a similar subject, I'm changing the oil on my CS (ZZR1100 powertec) next w/e and was wondering if its just a std kawasaki oil filter that goes in and what year to ask for in the shop. I was going to go with 97/98 or something like that, sound reasonable?
I've not really changed the oil on a dry sumped engine before either.
Cheers,
Dunc.
Radical only charged my about £4 for the filter if you want to make sure you get it right first time and then get the part number from the box it comes in - std Kwak part.I've not really changed the oil on a dry sumped engine before either.
Cheers,
Dunc.
Nick
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