Dry sump engine oil change procedure
Discussion
What is the best way to change engine oil filter etc ? How do you do yours !Start the motor to get as much oil as possible scavenged from the sump into the oil tank. Turn it off 
. Trace the lowest oil pipe from the oil tank to the sump and undo it there to drain the tank. There are a couple of pipes on the sump pan that need to be released to ensure the sump is fully drained, can remember which with out looking at it but when you're under there it'll be pretty obvious. Also undo the oil rad pipes and drain those out as well. Oil filter....remove/refit remembering to refit the jubilee clip which stops the filter from coming undone. For tighting to it up hand tight then another half a turn with a oil filter "socket"
. Trace the lowest oil pipe from the oil tank to the sump and undo it there to drain the tank. There are a couple of pipes on the sump pan that need to be released to ensure the sump is fully drained, can remember which with out looking at it but when you're under there it'll be pretty obvious. Also undo the oil rad pipes and drain those out as well. Oil filter....remove/refit remembering to refit the jubilee clip which stops the filter from coming undone. For tighting to it up hand tight then another half a turn with a oil filter "socket"Do you have any similar tips for a dry sumped SR4 1200? Seem to remember reading on a bike forum somewhere that the threads for the oil filter (or something along those lines) can be easily damaged and only need a very low torque up. But that was for the wet sumped bike installation, do you know if there are similar pitfalls awaiting an over enhusiastic spanner wielding part time grease monkey?
Nick
Nick
I've heard you can do it by undoing the return to the tank, running the engine and keep topping up the tank until clean fresh oil appears out of the return pipe. Apparantly it can be done this way but you use up a litre or two more oil before it comes through clean! Not sure if I like this idea!! The last thing I would want to do is run the engine low on oil. Any comments ?
silv said:
I've heard you can do it by undoing the return to the tank, running the engine and keep topping up the tank until clean fresh oil appears out of the return pipe. Apparantly it can be done this way but you use up a litre or two more oil before it comes through clean! Not sure if I like this idea!! The last thing I would want to do is run the engine low on oil. Any comments ?
could be an expensive way to try it out ?!?!
I assume it's "race team" engineering! If you are changing every race, then you could argue that the filter will be fine. Sounds horrible to me...one reason is that assuming you have warmed the engine up to drain it, you are running cold oil into a hot running engine. Not great practice.
Bert
Bert
chrissimp said:
Re an SR3, what about using the drain plugs on the sump and oil tank, then you don't have to disturb so much of the plumbing?
Is there a drain plug on the tank and on the sump ?? We are new to our SR3 and until I remove the under tray and get under it I have know idea what the sump looks like!!
Apologies for tagging on to what is now a fairly old thread, but (amongst several other things) we're doing a full oil and filter change on our dry sumped Hayabusa engined SR4 this weekend! It'll be our first time so we'd like not to mess it up!
RobC (etc); on the tightening of the oil filter, I see you describe hand tighten and then make half a turn (180 degree) using the oil filter socket. I am going to be using the standard Suzuki oil filter and factory printed on that is "Tighten 2 turns after contacting gasket by using oil filter wrench". If 'Suzuki' mean just touching, then two full 360 degree turns on the wrench, doesn't that mean 'theirs' is a bit tighter than 'yours'?
Associated with our (long) list of jobs this weekend is checking the drive chain tension, so rather than using the thread on this, I'll put it in here. Again, RobC (as ever) has provided great and really useful advice and guidance; excuse my ignorance, but when doing this to get/set half to three quarters inch 'play', does this mean>
After checking one has the tightest spot on the chain? >
At the centre point between the front and rear sprocket? >
'Play' at top or bottom of chain?
And finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >
According to his checklist, the previous owner used to grease/lube the Quaife LSD. Can anyone amplify what this means / what we need to do?
Sorry there are so many questions, but we'd like to avoid getting it wrong the first time. Thanks in anticipation!
RobC (etc); on the tightening of the oil filter, I see you describe hand tighten and then make half a turn (180 degree) using the oil filter socket. I am going to be using the standard Suzuki oil filter and factory printed on that is "Tighten 2 turns after contacting gasket by using oil filter wrench". If 'Suzuki' mean just touching, then two full 360 degree turns on the wrench, doesn't that mean 'theirs' is a bit tighter than 'yours'?
Associated with our (long) list of jobs this weekend is checking the drive chain tension, so rather than using the thread on this, I'll put it in here. Again, RobC (as ever) has provided great and really useful advice and guidance; excuse my ignorance, but when doing this to get/set half to three quarters inch 'play', does this mean>
After checking one has the tightest spot on the chain? >
At the centre point between the front and rear sprocket? >
'Play' at top or bottom of chain?
And finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >
According to his checklist, the previous owner used to grease/lube the Quaife LSD. Can anyone amplify what this means / what we need to do?
Sorry there are so many questions, but we'd like to avoid getting it wrong the first time. Thanks in anticipation!
1. With the tightest spot in the chain mid way between the two sprockets on the lower section
2. I ran a Prosport for two seasons and never had any problems with the diff and never touched it let alone greased it
Simon
www.tillingmorosport.com
2. I ran a Prosport for two seasons and never had any problems with the diff and never touched it let alone greased it
Simon
www.tillingmorosport.com
I assume you've done this now, but just for claification -
- Filter, if you do it hand tight and then do a 1/2 turn that is approx equavilant to the Suzuki method (and I don't think you'd be able to put two turns on it if you did it hand tight with out stripping threads)
- Chain, the point you measure is half way between the two sprockets. As you suggested find the tightest part of the chain and use that for the measuring. The play is how much you can move the chain up and down. You are ideally looking for 1cm of up movement and 1cm of down movement from its centre line.
- Diff, you can pack these out with some CV grease but generally they don't need it and with out taking it apart you can't really get to the gears anyway.
- Filter, if you do it hand tight and then do a 1/2 turn that is approx equavilant to the Suzuki method (and I don't think you'd be able to put two turns on it if you did it hand tight with out stripping threads)
- Chain, the point you measure is half way between the two sprockets. As you suggested find the tightest part of the chain and use that for the measuring. The play is how much you can move the chain up and down. You are ideally looking for 1cm of up movement and 1cm of down movement from its centre line.
- Diff, you can pack these out with some CV grease but generally they don't need it and with out taking it apart you can't really get to the gears anyway.
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