Couple of newbie CS questions

[dunc_sx]

I'm a newbie to the world of radicals so apologies if these are silly questions.

Firstly what does the button marked rev on the dash do? Secondly is there any choke/idle speed adjustment on the power tec zzr1100 engine? I've been struggling to get a sensible idle speed, seems far too low and cuts out even when up to sensible temp. Also the rev lights are only operating when turning over and not when running.

Thanks in advance for any assistance

Dunc.

[SportsLibre]

dunc_sx said:

I'm a newbie to the world of radicals so apologies if these are silly questions.

Firstly what does the button marked rev on the dash do? Secondly is there any choke/idle speed adjustment on the power tec zzr1100 engine? I've been struggling to get a sensible idle speed, seems far too low and cuts out even when up to sensible temp. Also the rev lights are only operating when turning over and not when running.

Thanks in advance for any assistance

Dunc.

The rev button operates the electric reverse.
As I think you have stiglet's old car, I can answer some of the other questions.
The electric reverse was removed, so is probably still not fitted, (didn't work anyway). On that front you will find a box in the sidepod designed to control the electric motor to give a "soft start" on the reverse. You wont need any ot that either if the reverse is not fitted.
On the carbs you should find an adjustment to set the idle on the shaft(all four at once). The choke is manual, and you should not need any, Can't remember if remember the stig had flatslides, I think so, therefore NEVER TOUCH THE CHOKE.
The problem with the LEDs is bad wiring, just try to find the dodgy connection/wire, a real pain, mine is the same.

for the engine, I recommend buying a kawasaki manual, cheap off ebay on CD, as the there is no fundamental difference made by powertec.

Edited by SportsLibre on Sunday 17th February 13:31

[dunc_sx]

Thanks very much for your excellent fast reply. Rev=reverse, thought it had something to do with the rev counter (and hence why no lights). I'll take a look at the wiring, it is indeed stiglets old car, was having a poke around and clean up of it yesterday.

So its OK to adjust the idle speed but not the choke as it has flat slide carbs. I'll get a manual off of ebay

Great stuff thanks,

Duncan.

[SportsLibre]

dunc_sx said:

So its OK to adjust the idle speed but not the choke as it has flat slide carbs.

I'm no expert on the flatsides, ran most of last season with them, but they were off a modified 1166ZZR so weren't really set up right, plus it turned out that while modifying the throttle cable, I lost a lot of the travel.

I reverted back to the original powetec butterfly carbs and the suddenly the car was quick again. If you feel you dont like or have trouble with the flatslides I have a spare set of radical powertec "normal" carbs complete with airbox. Another advantge of these is that the car always starts no problem first time, unlike the flatslides which can be a real b**ch...

Look forward to seeing you out in the hills and sprints

Angus

[dunc_sx]

Thanks Angus I'll keep that in mind, have ordered a zzr1100 CD manual now so that should help things along

Dunc.

Edited by dunc_sx on Sunday 17th February 20:14

[cdwatson]

There should be a short cable attached to the idle shaft for adjustment, which you twist to adjust. Starting with flatslides is just a matter of mastering the technique. Which is to pump the throttle 3 times and then crank if it catches the DON’T touch anything! Let it idle. (This assumes that it will idle!) After 30 sec’s or so you should be able to rev it. If it does not catch. Then crank again without any more pumps. Then repeat the process for the beginning! Well this works for me! Good luck.

Colin.

[olly1976]

SportsLibre said:

dunc_sx said:

Another advantge of these is that the car always starts no problem first time, unlike the flatslides which can be a real b**ch...

I had starting problems, with my clubsport and flatslides, too.
I changed to the spare used spark plugs a few times but nothing helped.
I went out to buy four new Cr-9e sparkplugs, put them in and the engine started at the first few turns of the crank.

[stiglet]

Dunc.

1. "Rev" is indeed reverse. The reverse motor is in the poly bag I gave you and would suggest it remains there!

2. It's fitted with flatslides. Idle is too low at cold but fine when the engine is properly warm. This takes a good few minutes and I just used to "rest" my foot on the throttle until it got warm. (There is indeed a short cable but it was a bit stiff so I just left it!)

As has been said above the starting technique is to avoid flooding the engine so don't be tempted to keep pressing the throttle and have a spare set of plugs handy just in case. A brand new set works wonders

3 The flatslides work well and (idle apart) are well set up.

4. Rev lights work fine but you won't know that until you drive it as they only come on when you're pressing on a bit. The old loose connection problem was ignition feed to the control box which "Westgarage" sorted at May Fintray last year and which never reappeared

As Sport Libre will tell you the whole plot works well. It really "flew" at Alford (last event) and I would be tempted to take it to a track and give it a thrash to see how it goes. Had I kept it, all I would have done is a spanner/ fluid check before the next event.

On the other hand........ if you "tweak" it I've got a ready excuse if/when your times are faster than mine!!!

Good Luck

JP


PS You don't need "current" FIA belts for sprints and hills