Michelin Tyre on a Clubsport with Prosport Aero

[olly1976]

Hello,

I just got a set of michelin Tyre from a Formula BMW and Formula Renault 2.0
Does anyone drive the clubsport with these tyres?

[craig7l]

yes (but without aero) and they are brilliant but its a massive difference in set up and has taken me about 4/5 trackdays and a test day (and the help of a FBMW team - i live at silverstone)at the end of last year to sort. a bit more work also between wet and dry.

the car i got from my purchase went from a wishy washy crossply avon tyred thing to what i have now.
dont expect to put them on and bobs your uncle though.

Edited by craig7l on Monday 19th February 08:59

[craig7l]

what you running 16/53-13 and 20/54-13 slicks? what you doing about wets?

Edited by craig7l on Monday 19th February 09:02

[olly1976]

Hello,

I have a radical clubsport with prosport aerokit.
Front High Downforce Splitter + diveplanes
Rear Spoiler with gurney and Undertray

I have

16/53/13 FR 2.0 and 23/57/13 FR 2.0
and
20/54/13 S308 an d 22/54/13 S400

here.

I can get them as wets, too.

I got my car with 2 sets of avon slicks and one of wets on 6" and 8" ally cats.


I have not used the michelin tyres yet.

[olly1976]

With or without aero should not make such a difference. I don´t have the experience to work out a setup from the beginning on my own.

[craig7l]

FBMW and FRenault wet tread patterns dont match so you cant run these together as you can with the slicks.
My set up uses 16/53-13FR2.0 and 20/54-13s308 slicks with 16/53-13P220 and 23/57-13P220 wets.

The wet diameters are bigger on the rear which alters gearing and rack but exactly the same on the front. It isnt recommended to put 23s on 8" wide

[olly1976]

Changing a sproket is no problem.

I will then use P220, too.

What width do you use for the 23s?

What wheels do you use front and rear?


Can you email me the setup? [e-mail]

Thanks allot


Oli

[craig7l]

changing a sprocket as the heavens open 15mins from grid formation is virtually impossible i would say.

6"F and 8"R image splits slicks
6"F and 9"R compomotive CRX wets (slightly heavier)- remember that "sometimes" a car will benefit with rear wheels slightly further in and the fronts slighty further out - in wet conditions - which you can choose to incorporate in the offsets (or not) when and if having to order - (or use spacers etc)

if you take the radical set up sheet and doubley go opposite on about everything you may have a good starting point.

Edited by craig7l on Monday 19th February 21:33

Edited by craig7l on Monday 19th February 21:42

[olly1976]

In my Manual is the following setting:

Front:
Tyre Pressure 14 psi
Ride Height: 70 mm
Camber 0 - 1/2 negative
Toe in 0- 1/32" in (per wheel)
0- 1/16" overall

Rear:
Tyre Pressure 14 psi
Ride Height: 75mm
Camber 0 - 1/4 (there is no note if negative or positive)
Toe in 1/32" - 1/16" in per wheel
1/16" - 1/8" in overall

What will i have to modify? I am not a technican an have to give the guy who meassures the car detailed information.

What is the cold tyre pressure?

Thanks for your help.

Oli

[Laurence7]

Hi Olly
The settings you quote look like the nominal settings for the Avon tyres specified for the Clubsport, which are of cross-ply construction. The Michelins are radials of course.
Radials, because of the their construction tend to move around a lot more on the rim and this means that they need more negative camber to keep an even contact patch on the road surface when cornering hard. You'll probably need something like 2.0 deg negative on the fronts and 1.5 deg negative on the rears, but you're best taking advice from someone who's been through the learning curve (Craig?).
If you try to use this much camber on suspension that was designed for cross-plies, you might find you run out of adjustment on the top wishbones. If this is the case, rather than buy the top wishbones intended for use with Radials, you might find a cheaper option is to use your existing wishbones with a more compact rod end and or slightly (but only slightly!) thinner locknut at the wishbone outer end - this'll buy you a bit of inward adjustment.
If you go this route, make sure you get rod ends that are up to the job. If you need advice and rod ends at a good price, try Nick Skidmore at [e-mail]
Cheers
Laurence

[olly1976]

Hi Laurence,

thanks for your explanation.

Craig wrote i should double all the standard settings to reach a starting setup for the michelin tyres,

That would mean:

Front:

Camber 1 negative
Toe in 1/16" in (per wheel)
1/8" overall

Rear:

Camber 0,5 negative
Toe in 1/8" in per wheel
1/4" in overall

Still not very much camber for a radial tyre i guess.

I think have enough adjustment on the top wishbone if not the change of the rod ends is a good advice.

Cheers

Oli

Edited by olly1976 on Wednesday 21st February 09:35

[olly1976]

Craig could you check if the setup above is what you meant to be a good starting setup?

Cheers

Oli

[simon t]

FWIW I'd start with 3deg neg on the front and 2dg neg on the back. Don't forget to check the toe after you adjust it though. If you can't get the neg camber you can take 1/8 - 3/16 off the end of the wishbone where the track rod fits this should do it.

I would try with the tyre pressures up at 18 - 20 to start then once you get some heat in the tyres set the hot pressure to 21 - 22.

give me a call if you want anymore info

Regards

Simon

www.tillingmotorsport.com

[olly1976]

Hi

thank you for your advice.
I think that is a good starting point.
For me it would have been really hard otherwise because we don´t have many radical specialists here.

Cheers

Oli