Is owning a Radical for track days remotely simple?
Discussion
From my limited reading, it seems that people employ entire race teams to look after them etc......which is certainly way beyond what I'd want to be having to do. We've got an Ariel Atom and a couple of other fun track toys, but have always lusted after a Radical.....but am I right in thinking it's a massive step up from just showing up, doing your laps then heading home?
I have run a Radical on track days for the last 12 years, starting with a Clubsport followed by two SR3s.
The Clubsport and the first SR3 I ran myself just doing regular maintenance and spanner checks between each event. I also found that by not pushing the engine to the max in every gear each time you can increase the time between rebuilds considerably. I would then have a more extensive preparation of the car each winter following which I would take the car to a specialist to check my work, do anything that I had missed or didn’t feel competent to do or required specialist equipment.
I would recommend having the 1340 cc Heyabusa rather than the 1500 cc as this will put less stress on the components giving better reliability and longer life. I now run an SR3RS which I share with three others so we now have that car run by a professional team which certainly makes life easier for me and by dividing the costs by four affordable.
The biggest problem I had when running the car was storage which we solved by having a fully enclosed trailer and joining the caravan club so we could store the car securely in the trailer on one of the secure caravan storage sites that are around the country.
Hope this helps.
David
The Clubsport and the first SR3 I ran myself just doing regular maintenance and spanner checks between each event. I also found that by not pushing the engine to the max in every gear each time you can increase the time between rebuilds considerably. I would then have a more extensive preparation of the car each winter following which I would take the car to a specialist to check my work, do anything that I had missed or didn’t feel competent to do or required specialist equipment.
I would recommend having the 1340 cc Heyabusa rather than the 1500 cc as this will put less stress on the components giving better reliability and longer life. I now run an SR3RS which I share with three others so we now have that car run by a professional team which certainly makes life easier for me and by dividing the costs by four affordable.
The biggest problem I had when running the car was storage which we solved by having a fully enclosed trailer and joining the caravan club so we could store the car securely in the trailer on one of the secure caravan storage sites that are around the country.
Hope this helps.
David
dh00065p said:
I have run a Radical on track days for the last 12 years, starting with a Clubsport followed by two SR3s.
The Clubsport and the first SR3 I ran myself just doing regular maintenance and spanner checks between each event. I also found that by not pushing the engine to the max in every gear each time you can increase the time between rebuilds considerably. I would then have a more extensive preparation of the car each winter following which I would take the car to a specialist to check my work, do anything that I had missed or didn’t feel competent to do or required specialist equipment.
I would recommend having the 1340 cc Heyabusa rather than the 1500 cc as this will put less stress on the components giving better reliability and longer life. I now run an SR3RS which I share with three others so we now have that car run by a professional team which certainly makes life easier for me and by dividing the costs by four affordable.
The biggest problem I had when running the car was storage which we solved by having a fully enclosed trailer and joining the caravan club so we could store the car securely in the trailer on one of the secure caravan storage sites that are around the country.
Hope this helps.
David
Thanks for the response David. The Clubsport and the first SR3 I ran myself just doing regular maintenance and spanner checks between each event. I also found that by not pushing the engine to the max in every gear each time you can increase the time between rebuilds considerably. I would then have a more extensive preparation of the car each winter following which I would take the car to a specialist to check my work, do anything that I had missed or didn’t feel competent to do or required specialist equipment.
I would recommend having the 1340 cc Heyabusa rather than the 1500 cc as this will put less stress on the components giving better reliability and longer life. I now run an SR3RS which I share with three others so we now have that car run by a professional team which certainly makes life easier for me and by dividing the costs by four affordable.
The biggest problem I had when running the car was storage which we solved by having a fully enclosed trailer and joining the caravan club so we could store the car securely in the trailer on one of the secure caravan storage sites that are around the country.
Hope this helps.
David
It is still a bit of a pipe dream at the moment for my brother and I, although he does now own an RS6 which would be the car to tow a trailer, and we do luckily have storage space if we were to buy one. So it really comes down to finances and if it's practical.....given we already have an Ariel Atom, a Noble and Evo 6 between us that are all great on track, do we need to add a Radical into the mix, which does sound like it would require a lot more 'regular work' to keep it track ready, and is certainly a step away from 'turn up, drive, drive home' which we currently do.
But, having said all that, I can't imagine it being anything less than incredible once we were out on track.
Have run my SR3 RS for 4 years now by myself. Initially for track days and now a small bit of racing also. I know at least 4 others locally to me doing the same. The cars are mechanically fairly simple, and there's a lot of knowledge out there.
I'm handy with the spanners, only thing I don't do is internals of engine/gearbox, but capable of removing/reinstalling the engine to send it away for rebuild every couple of years. Apart from that if you're fairly methodical with some basic safery checks then it can be a straightforward car to live with. My biggest problem at the moment is that my uprights are beyond their recommended "life" and need replaced, which is an expensive job, but not complex mechanically.
If you're confident with a torque wrench,changing fluids and generally checking over brakes etc, then there's not much more to it - contrary to popular opinion you don't need to change the setup between each session - I've had mine checked twice in the time I've had it and because I'm generally happy with the feel of the car I don't feel the need to constantly fettle. If you were in a close single-make race series its a different story.
I'm handy with the spanners, only thing I don't do is internals of engine/gearbox, but capable of removing/reinstalling the engine to send it away for rebuild every couple of years. Apart from that if you're fairly methodical with some basic safery checks then it can be a straightforward car to live with. My biggest problem at the moment is that my uprights are beyond their recommended "life" and need replaced, which is an expensive job, but not complex mechanically.
If you're confident with a torque wrench,changing fluids and generally checking over brakes etc, then there's not much more to it - contrary to popular opinion you don't need to change the setup between each session - I've had mine checked twice in the time I've had it and because I'm generally happy with the feel of the car I don't feel the need to constantly fettle. If you were in a close single-make race series its a different story.
Order66 said:
Have run my SR3 RS for 4 years now by myself. Initially for track days and now a small bit of racing also. I know at least 4 others locally to me doing the same. The cars are mechanically fairly simple, and there's a lot of knowledge out there.
I'm handy with the spanners, only thing I don't do is internals of engine/gearbox, but capable of removing/reinstalling the engine to send it away for rebuild every couple of years. Apart from that if you're fairly methodical with some basic safery checks then it can be a straightforward car to live with. My biggest problem at the moment is that my uprights are beyond their recommended "life" and need replaced, which is an expensive job, but not complex mechanically.
If you're confident with a torque wrench,changing fluids and generally checking over brakes etc, then there's not much more to it - contrary to popular opinion you don't need to change the setup between each session - I've had mine checked twice in the time I've had it and because I'm generally happy with the feel of the car I don't feel the need to constantly fettle. If you were in a close single-make race series its a different story.
Now this does make it sound more like the sort of thing we'd be able to do. And SR3 RS is exactly what I think we'd be after. I'm handy with the spanners, only thing I don't do is internals of engine/gearbox, but capable of removing/reinstalling the engine to send it away for rebuild every couple of years. Apart from that if you're fairly methodical with some basic safery checks then it can be a straightforward car to live with. My biggest problem at the moment is that my uprights are beyond their recommended "life" and need replaced, which is an expensive job, but not complex mechanically.
If you're confident with a torque wrench,changing fluids and generally checking over brakes etc, then there's not much more to it - contrary to popular opinion you don't need to change the setup between each session - I've had mine checked twice in the time I've had it and because I'm generally happy with the feel of the car I don't feel the need to constantly fettle. If you were in a close single-make race series its a different story.
I did help my (more knowledgeable) friend take apart my Evo 6 when I first got it and put it all back together (engine out, removed pretty much everything else from the chassis etc) so I like to think I'm a step in the right direction when it comes to working with a spanner and fluid changes etc, as long as I know how to do it.
So, thanks for this post, it certainly pushes me in the right direction!
Actually, one point I keep forgetting to ask, how loud are they?? We're in the south east, so Goodwood, Brands Hatch, Bedford, Thurxton are pretty much the only ones we'd be looking at heading to....some of those have pretty right noise regs......
No idea, but to me maintaining, trailering and running a Radical race car just for track days, with no intention to race, is moronic. Why not go racing with it? It's a purpose built race car after all. Running it at half-pace behind other road cars on track days is the epitome of 'all the gear no idea'.
Olivera said:
No idea, but to me maintaining, trailering and running a Radical race car just for track days, with no intention to race, is moronic. Why not go racing with it? It's a purpose built race car after all. Running it at half-pace behind other road cars on track days is the epitome of 'all the gear no idea'.
Because track days are there for fun, racing is a different kettle of fish? I don't see the problem in wanting the fastest possible track toy to play with on a track day without the pressure/costs etc involved with racing. Not to mention time. Part of the reason this may remain a pipe dream is because at best we manage to find time for 3 track days per year.....I imagine racing requires more time than that! UTH said:
Actually, one point I keep forgetting to ask, how loud are they?? We're in the south east, so Goodwood, Brands Hatch, Bedford, Thurxton are pretty much the only ones we'd be looking at heading to....some of those have pretty right noise regs......
They can be made quiet. The biggest risk is the static noise test - high revving engines don't do well here, but on drive-by tests they have no issues. For the static test you need to make sure everything is warm and bring the revs up slowly....and when asking what your red-line is, say 9,000rpm 
I've also got one of these in my kit:
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/merlin-mild-s...
it clamps on in 2-minutes and does a good job of knocking the edge of your volume - enough to get out at most circuits. I've only actually needed to use it once as we can pass the noise tests without issue generally.
Olivera said:
No idea, but to me maintaining, trailering and running a Radical race car just for track days, with no intention to race, is moronic. Why not go racing with it? It's a purpose built race car after all. Running it at half-pace behind other road cars on track days is the epitome of 'all the gear no idea'.
Is it any different to running and trailering any other track-day car? It is quick, but a lot of the top-end road cars are also very quick in the correct hands, and this costs £200k less. In reality it is the cheapest way to go very quick on a track day - because its designed for it the cost of consumables is actually very low - brake discs/pads last forever, 2nd hand slicks/wets are way cheaper than track tyres. I'd rather be on track with guys running at half-pace in very capable cars, than the home-brew squad pushing the car way beyond its limits, spitting oil and parts all over the track before taking someone else out on the way to the barrier.
It's also a good way to learn to drive and progress to racing if you want to.
I race, but racing is very expensive for the track time you get, so I do track days also - it gives me lots of seat time, and I simply enjoy it. Not moronic at all.
Perhaps moronic is judging what others should do with their time/money.
Order66 said:
UTH said:
Actually, one point I keep forgetting to ask, how loud are they?? We're in the south east, so Goodwood, Brands Hatch, Bedford, Thurxton are pretty much the only ones we'd be looking at heading to....some of those have pretty right noise regs......
They can be made quiet. The biggest risk is the static noise test - high revving engines don't do well here, but on drive-by tests they have no issues. For the static test you need to make sure everything is warm and bring the revs up slowly....and when asking what your red-line is, say 9,000rpm I've also got one of these in my kit:
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/merlin-mild-s...
it clamps on in 2-minutes and does a good job of knocking the edge of your volume - enough to get out at most circuits. I've only actually needed to use it once as we can pass the noise tests without issue generally.
is it something i can run literally myself at a track day?
this thread is perfect, i am now shopping around for used SR3 also, purely for track days, no racing for the time being; i'm completely on my own though, and I think i should be ok being able to load it onto a trailer (with winch) myself, drive to the track, unload, secure trailer etc.. and go out on my own.
will that be definitely possible or would i definitely need a helping hand to help with loading/unloading?
i'm not quite sure how i'd be able to unload it on my own releasing the winch if the steering needs to be held straight.....questions like this i've been pondering!
how about starting/changing tyres/using air jack system etc?
this thread is perfect, i am now shopping around for used SR3 also, purely for track days, no racing for the time being; i'm completely on my own though, and I think i should be ok being able to load it onto a trailer (with winch) myself, drive to the track, unload, secure trailer etc.. and go out on my own.
will that be definitely possible or would i definitely need a helping hand to help with loading/unloading?
i'm not quite sure how i'd be able to unload it on my own releasing the winch if the steering needs to be held straight.....questions like this i've been pondering!
how about starting/changing tyres/using air jack system etc?
Edited by wioifoiee on Wednesday 24th November 17:10
wioifoiee said:
is it something i can run literally myself at a track day?
Yes, I've done dozens of track days with it on my own (usually mates around, but they are doing their own cars, I get no assistance with my car, can don't need any)Changing tyres is easy - quick lift jack underneath and you lift an axle at a time - decent buzz gun to undo the nut and you're away - quicker to do than any road car. I removed my air jacks as pissing about with the air bottle is a waste of time compared to a quick lift jack. No difference to running a caterham or anything else on a trailer.
I use an electric winch, but don't see why you can't manage with a manual - the wheels want to stay straight, just winch it on/off.
There's nothing to starting it - you get in, press the start button, it's started. Ideally your car would have oil heating pads as it saves on engine hours, but not essential - the heating pads are run with a wee camping genny, again all done by yourself, there's no necessarily 2-man jobs - saying that, radicals always attract attention - offer a passenger lap and people will be falling over themselves to help load it back on the trailer for you - people like to be around a "proper" race car.
Order66 said:
Yes, I've done dozens of track days with it on my own (usually mates around, but they are doing their own cars, I get no assistance with my car, can don't need any)
Changing tyres is easy - quick lift jack underneath and you lift an axle at a time - decent buzz gun to undo the nut and you're away - quicker to do than any road car. I removed my air jacks as pissing about with the air bottle is a waste of time compared to a quick lift jack. No difference to running a caterham or anything else on a trailer.
I use an electric winch, but don't see why you can't manage with a manual - the wheels want to stay straight, just winch it on/off.
There's nothing to starting it - you get in, press the start button, it's started. Ideally your car would have oil heating pads as it saves on engine hours, but not essential - the heating pads are run with a wee camping genny, again all done by yourself, there's no necessarily 2-man jobs - saying that, radicals always attract attention - offer a passenger lap and people will be falling over themselves to help load it back on the trailer for you - people like to be around a "proper" race car.
well that's great news. thanks!Changing tyres is easy - quick lift jack underneath and you lift an axle at a time - decent buzz gun to undo the nut and you're away - quicker to do than any road car. I removed my air jacks as pissing about with the air bottle is a waste of time compared to a quick lift jack. No difference to running a caterham or anything else on a trailer.
I use an electric winch, but don't see why you can't manage with a manual - the wheels want to stay straight, just winch it on/off.
There's nothing to starting it - you get in, press the start button, it's started. Ideally your car would have oil heating pads as it saves on engine hours, but not essential - the heating pads are run with a wee camping genny, again all done by yourself, there's no necessarily 2-man jobs - saying that, radicals always attract attention - offer a passenger lap and people will be falling over themselves to help load it back on the trailer for you - people like to be around a "proper" race car.
actually sounds a lot easier than running my own kart a decade ago. Always needed a mate to help, was a pain to organise.
oh one more query i forgot........how about bodywork?
It doesn't look like i could easily lift the rear shell off on my own - or is it? Unless i device some kind of pulley system in my garage...
Edited by wioifoiee on Wednesday 24th November 21:47
We run an SR1 in sprints and hillclimbs and absolutely you can run one of these on your own. Closed trailer a must, we run a 1440 RLM motor so added 24v start as it's not easy to start hot otherwise, extra aero, it's awesome.
Not affiliated at all but RLM are great with these cars.
My opinion is just go for it, they are fantastic!
Not affiliated at all but RLM are great with these cars.
My opinion is just go for it, they are fantastic!
I ran a Radical Prosport in sprints and on the hills and I couldn’t run it an event without help. If you needed to do any maintenance like adjust the chain or clean pickup off tyres, bodywork had to come off and that was not a one man job. Also spares support on older Radicals is very poor, I had to make or have made my own parts following a crash.
wioifoiee said:
oh one more query i forgot........how about bodywork?
It doesn't look like i could easily lift the rear shell off on my own - or is it? Unless i device some kind of pulley system in my garage...
Bodywork is very light, just awkward. Unless you are extremely feeble the rear comes off by simply lifting the rear wing and using it to pivot over the airbox. The front is a bit more awkward because of how bendy it is so you tend to lift one wheel off at a time and shuffle it forward, but easily do-able on your own. There's no real weight there, its the size/floppiness that's the issue. Again, I'm doing it all myself - take off the front and rear every time between events for a quick spanner check and look-over, no issues at all, no hoists or other equipment needed.It doesn't look like i could easily lift the rear shell off on my own - or is it? Unless i device some kind of pulley system in my garage...
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