Looking to buy....advice

[JayK12]

Hi All,
I'm in the market for a Radical after testing a SR3RSX. SR3 RSX is out of budget as I want to keep my road fun car too. So I started looking at SR1's, but noticed SR3 RS are around similar price if not cheaper.

I'm going to be using it for track / test days. What should I be looking out for, from what I have read with low engine hours there's not much else apart from oil changes and keeping an eye on chain tension that needs doing.

What would you guys value a 2009 SR3 RS with 7 hours running time at?

Thanks

[Gc285]

I run both,
SR3 is more costly to run on brakes, shocks, engine ,GDU.
1340 in the SR1 goes on forever , 1500 in a 3 should be refreshed after 40 hrs.
Sr1 a lot easier to run and physically easier to push around, load up etc.
SR3 only marginally bigger but I found it makes a huge difference in the garage and on trailer I had to get a bigger one for the sr3.
I love SR3rsx in a race but for a trackday, I would go SR1; With the right tyres and driver they are not far behind an SR3.On a straight there is little difference and tyres last longer. There a few drivers out there that would put an SR1 near the front row of an SR3 grid.
I wouldnt go for a stick shift, Paddles look after the gears and make the whole experience far more enjoyable.
Dry sump in SR1 essential if you want to run slicks in my opinion. They all come with dry sump now, but were optional until 2018 I think.
Only thing is, SR1 can be quite intimate, but never had an issue with it.
You will get a 2-3 year old SR1 with all the modern trimmings, for the price of a 10 year old SR3.

[JayK12]

Thanks Andy, my instructor also told me an SR1 might be the one for me, as I'll be doing track days or test days. I just thought if I'm going to do it to just go for a SR3 for the extra omph in straight line speed for bigger circuits and the extra aero/brakes. But if your saying an SR1 with dry sump and slicks is not far off an SR3 RS then might be an option if your getting newer car for your money. SR3 RS 2009 I've seen is 24K, 2012 27K.
Cheers
Jay

[Josh Smith]

If you don’t need to carry a passenger then buy a PR6. It would be quicker than a 1 and a 3. Same running gear as an SR1 and easier to access everything

Josh

Edited by andy.mod on Saturday 17th November 09:54

[Gc285]

I will say the brakes and aero on the 3 are great fun and the 3 is the car to have in the wet.

Edited by Gc285 on Saturday 17th November 09:36

[JayK12]

These are the ones I've seen.

http://www.performancetime.co.uk/cars/radical-sr3-...

https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/98477/ra...

Radical have a 2017 SR1 for 34K.


I think if i do it I'd want to go SR3, but that would mean selling my road fun car (981 Boxster GTS Manual) - I only do about 3K miles a year in it. Anyone else dumped the fun road car for a track car?

[Gc285]

pm sent

Edited by Gc285 on Wednesday 21st November 09:38

[JayK12]

Gc285 said:

Engine and GDU hrs are v important in price. If not zero hrs, allow at least 5k for a refresh on the engine and £1000 for the GDU in the future at some point , around 40hrs for 1500 although 1340 is unstressed and will go longer. If they break, and they do, replacement is not cheap! It is very worth downloading the data from ecu and having Radical or RLM have a quick flick over it. A car with very low hrs that has been badly overheated, run under temperature on oil and water too much or very over revved may need a refresh.

Think about what is included in the deal, ie data cables, rollbars, extra wheels, wheel nut socket, pump out tube, spare ratios, dump churn if they have quick fill. etc. You may need all these unless a team run you.

Does it have data logging dash, gps on top of the seat, smarty cam for lap times and a bit of video.

Condition and hrs on the chassis. Is the fuel tank in date if it is a bag tank. Not a legality in uk but worth thinking about. Are the pads and disks newish, when were the shocks last dyno'd to make sure they still work. How many hrs running since uprights and bearings last refurbed, driveshafts snap after a while , does it have the heavy duty ones and when, which type of paddle shift does it have and does it keep cutting in frequently indicating a leak.

2009 sr3 with a 1340 is a bit old and resale may not be so easy with the smaller engine. you would rule out anyone that wants it for racing in the UK, which limits the market quite a bit. 1340 on the other hand, you would get longer hrs between refresh and the car may not be exerted to the same stress' as a 1500. Trackday car would be far less abused! That said, a car that has raced but well run may be in top condition and a trackday car never touched but nice and clean.

These are just my opinions so have a chat with a few different people
Personally, unless you know the SR3, I would take someone that does along to evaluate it or look at a few and study up on them before you do.
A bad car can look nice and shiny but can also need a lot of money spent. A good one may go forever with very little issue.

Wow, thanks for the detailed information. So much to consider. Re-sale is important and I might do a fair few track days for a year then decide to try something else, and I would want maintenance to be low, i just want to get in and drive the thing and not spend hours fixing it. As with all my cars, they are always maintained well, so I never really experience any issues.

Do you know the cost of fitting a dry sump onto an SR1? Radical are selling a 2017 SR1 Gen2 for 34K. Im guessing this could be an option as the engine life is warranted, and any issues with the car will have Radical support. Dry sump and slick would be something I'd want. I have read people running R888s and no dry sump and having engine failures.

[Gc285]

My sr1 has a drysump, it was a £5k option at the time although I think they have them as standard now.

[JayK12]

Gc285 said:

My sr1 has a drysump, it was a £5k option at the time although I think they have them as standard now.

I have the 2018 price list with options from Radical and it does show a dry sump as standard so guessing the 2017 would have one also, bonus.

As much as I think an SR3 would be the one to go for, a newer SR1 with slicks seems abit more of a sensible option to get started in the Radical world, and can always go racing at any point on a lower budget.

[gordonc]

Remember to ask the HOURS on the car as most sr3rs need engine /gearbox refresh around 40 hrs and that be another 4K to consider ... as I found out !!! also id take a laptop and data lead to check for my self or get seller who prob has one as u can also se LOAD hrs and total running hrs from data

[wilko198509]

JayK12 said:

Hi All,
I'm in the market for a Radical after testing a SR3RSX. SR3 RSX is out of budget as I want to keep my road fun car too. So I started looking at SR1's, but noticed SR3 RS are around similar price if not cheaper.

I'm going to be using it for track / test days. What should I be looking out for, from what I have read with low engine hours there's not much else apart from oil changes and keeping an eye on chain tension that needs doing.

What would you guys value a 2009 SR3 RS with 7 hours running time at?

Thanks

Hi pal,

Im a bit late to the party, but if its of any help I bought an SR1 In may and its been an amazing car so far. It is definitely slower than the SR3s, but if you were to run slicks and put a rear diffuser on the back I have heard they will pretty much be on par then.

I bought an SR1 as its small enough to comfortably fit into the garage and go on a reasonably sized trailer.

Im in the process of upgrading mine to a dry sump (needed if you are going to run slicks or the Hankook treads in the SR1 cup), which is not cheap, but should hopefully improve reliability when I race next year.

Im planning on running in the SR1 cup next year, so have to set it up to in accordance with their regs, but one day I will put slicks and the diffuser on to see how much difference there is.

The only thing thats gone a bit wrong was I snapped the rear strut bar, but that was quickly fixed. The car is very easy and in fact quite fun to work on, although it does require a good check over after each stint out on track and at the end of a session. This is equally true for the SR3 though.

[JayK12]

Well I put a deposit in this 2012 SR3 RS with RSX body. So starting from scratch need to get loads of stuff, do my trailer test, get a trailer, tools, gear, ppfff.....excited!

I'm sure I'll have a st ton of questions! First one....open trailer I'm looking at Brian James A Max, its not tilt bed and has 1.9m ramps. With longer ramps do you guys think it would fit? I saw someone load an SR3 on a C4 Blue with 1.9m ramps plus some scaffold board. It went on backwards.

[Josh Smith]

Nice car 👌
Looks like Lee Torrie’s last one

[Racer42]

Great looking car! What chassis number is it?

[JayK12]

Cheers guys.

I have no idea what chassis number it is :/

[LindsayMac]

Plaque behind the seat.

[JayK12]

I'll take a look when i get it home. Should collect in a week an abit.

It comes with Avon slicks, and Avon or Hancook wets. First anyone recommend either of these wets over the other? And i read the owners handbook for the RSX and it doesn't have an pressures or setup info for the Avons, do you guys just use the settings from the other tyres?

I can only find the SR3 RSX owners/mechanics/handling guide. Do these exist for the SR3 RS?

Thanks.

[LindsayMac]

Avons come up to temp much quicker than Dunlops but Dunlops probably faster and more stable on hot days, so ideal for track day slicks. Dunlop wets are outstanding.

I run similar pressures but I think Avons might like less Neg Camber. I find it fast enough for anything so far on trackways.😅 Still to be passed.......When that happens I dial in some performance from somewhere.

JayK12 said:

I'll take a look when i get it home. Should collect in a week an abit.

It comes with Avon slicks, and Avon or Hancook wets. First anyone recommend either of these wets over the other? And i read the owners handbook for the RSX and it doesn't have an pressures or setup info for the Avons, do you guys just use the settings from the other tyres?

I can only find the SR3 RSX owners/mechanics/handling guide. Do these exist for the SR3 RS?

Thanks.

[JayK12]

LindsayMac said:

Avons come up to temp much quicker than Dunlops but Dunlops probably faster and more stable on hot days, so ideal for track day slicks. Dunlop wets are outstanding.

I run similar pressures but I think Avons might like less Neg Camber. I find it fast enough for anything so far on trackways.?? Still to be passed.......When that happens I dial in some performance from somewhere.

JayK12 said:

I'll take a look when i get it home. Should collect in a week an abit.

It comes with Avon slicks, and Avon or Hancook wets. First anyone recommend either of these wets over the other? And i read the owners handbook for the RSX and it doesn't have an pressures or setup info for the Avons, do you guys just use the settings from the other tyres?

I can only find the SR3 RSX owners/mechanics/handling guide. Do these exist for the SR3 RS?

Thanks.

Thanks! Yeah i probably dont need to worry about much at the mo, just get on track and drive The geeky stuff is all very interesting.