Paddle shift valve block refurb?
Discussion
On my SR3 the compressor is cycling every 15-20 secs and I can hear a distinct hiss - getting under the car with some soapy water I can't get any bubbles from the connectors, but the sound is definitely coming from the valve block. So I'm assuming this is the (not uncommon) leak from inside the block.
Has anyone had theirs refurbished? I'd rather not be spending £500+ on a replacement from radical.
I'm assuming its a geartronics part (radical part TP0110)? Do they refurb?
Final question - to get the hoses to disconnect - do I just push down the "collars" and give the hose a good tug?
Has anyone had theirs refurbished? I'd rather not be spending £500+ on a replacement from radical.
I'm assuming its a geartronics part (radical part TP0110)? Do they refurb?
Final question - to get the hoses to disconnect - do I just push down the "collars" and give the hose a good tug?
Edited by Order66 on Saturday 10th February 16:11
Gc285 said:
common problem, May just need a clean. That solved it for me. A little bit of debris had got inside. I cleaned and refitted.
When you say clean, did you take it off and drown in some sort of cleaner/solvent, or take it apart. I'm trying to disassemble it and have removed the screws but the top doesn't want to separate - do I have to remove the brass fittings first?For anyone else in the future experiencing this. It is a very simple/quick fix.
Simply take the block off, undo the screws (I took them all off, I imagine the ones holding on the mounts for the cable ties could be left, but might as well take them out to be sure). Then you need to separate the 2 halfs of the block - this isn't easy as the halfs are siliconed together. I took a tiny watchmakers screwdriver (flat blade) and a small hammer - first I scraped around the edges of the seal to try loosen it, then I picked a corner and starting gently (and getting firmer) tapped the blade into the join until it started to separate then gently prised the 2 halfs apart. You have to be careful as the top/bottom are joined by wires, careful not to rip them apart.
Once apart just get a small philips head and tighten all the screws on the right hand lighter grey piece. Don't force them, on a few I got a good half turn on them.
Re-assembled with a smear of silicone to ensure water-tight and plugged back into the car. No hiss, compressor not re-charging until I use the gears.
A very happy camper that isn't £500+ lighter. This should probably be a service item for most cars every few years - if the compressor is kicking on less than say every 3 or 4 minutes then it is a very quick/simple bit of maintenance at the start of the season.
Simply take the block off, undo the screws (I took them all off, I imagine the ones holding on the mounts for the cable ties could be left, but might as well take them out to be sure). Then you need to separate the 2 halfs of the block - this isn't easy as the halfs are siliconed together. I took a tiny watchmakers screwdriver (flat blade) and a small hammer - first I scraped around the edges of the seal to try loosen it, then I picked a corner and starting gently (and getting firmer) tapped the blade into the join until it started to separate then gently prised the 2 halfs apart. You have to be careful as the top/bottom are joined by wires, careful not to rip them apart.
Once apart just get a small philips head and tighten all the screws on the right hand lighter grey piece. Don't force them, on a few I got a good half turn on them.
Re-assembled with a smear of silicone to ensure water-tight and plugged back into the car. No hiss, compressor not re-charging until I use the gears.
A very happy camper that isn't £500+ lighter. This should probably be a service item for most cars every few years - if the compressor is kicking on less than say every 3 or 4 minutes then it is a very quick/simple bit of maintenance at the start of the season.
Edited by Order66 on Monday 12th February 13:51
splitpin said:
Great post O66, but what I can't see as part of 'pulling it apart as it wasn't working properly and putting it back together and now it does' is what the problem was. Debris or water?
Neither - the valves (light grey bit) need to sit tight to the base and are held on by the small screws - over time they vibrate themselves loose and need tightened up.
what is the trick (if any) of hooking the lines back in? Asking since, mine were disconnected when purchased as the previous owner had installed a new motor and then stopped as he got too busy. I purchased as a project and am almost finished tidying back up and that's one of my last items to reconnect.
Pictures would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
B
Pictures would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
B
FOS373 said:
what is the trick (if any) of hooking the lines back in? Asking since, mine were disconnected when purchased as the previous owner had installed a new motor and then stopped as he got too busy. I purchased as a project and am almost finished tidying back up and that's one of my last items to reconnect.
B
No trick, they are just push-fittings. Just make sure the hose ends have clean/straight ends and push them in and they will "grab".B
To update this thread - had the same issue again, felt like the compressor was cycling too often (down to about a minute between recharges) so nipped up the screws as above, but this time no improvement.
After a bit of fiddling I realised the end of the hose from the compressor was a bit "ragged", so nipped off the last half centimeter with a pair of sharp scissors, and then tightened the fitting (the one to the compressor hose) by a 1/4 turn with a 10mm spanner and put tried it again.....this time gave up waiting for the compressor to kick in again after 10 minutes, so just to highlight you need to look at the condition of the hose and fittings into the valve block too - its not just about the wee screws.
After a bit of fiddling I realised the end of the hose from the compressor was a bit "ragged", so nipped off the last half centimeter with a pair of sharp scissors, and then tightened the fitting (the one to the compressor hose) by a 1/4 turn with a 10mm spanner and put tried it again.....this time gave up waiting for the compressor to kick in again after 10 minutes, so just to highlight you need to look at the condition of the hose and fittings into the valve block too - its not just about the wee screws.
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