Running an SR1
Discussion
Hi guys,
Having returned my track-going E92 M3 back to standard and spent some time in a 280bhp Elise on track, I've well and truly got the lightweight track bug.
I have a budget of £20-30k for a track car, with one consideration being an SR1. The Radical seems like the best bang for buck, but seems like a bit more of an unknown compared to some of my other considerations like a Caterham or Elise/Exige. I realise the Radical is in a different league.
I'm curious what I'm letting myself in for, though. I hear various horror stories of them needing very specialist running, while others will say they just abuse theirs between 50 hour engine/box rebuilds.
Can I run it myself or am I going to hire someone to look after it on track days.
What can I expect to spend on consumables? Tyres, brakes etc?
Is there a resource somewhere for looking after radicals?
Cheers,
Mike.
Having returned my track-going E92 M3 back to standard and spent some time in a 280bhp Elise on track, I've well and truly got the lightweight track bug.
I have a budget of £20-30k for a track car, with one consideration being an SR1. The Radical seems like the best bang for buck, but seems like a bit more of an unknown compared to some of my other considerations like a Caterham or Elise/Exige. I realise the Radical is in a different league.
I'm curious what I'm letting myself in for, though. I hear various horror stories of them needing very specialist running, while others will say they just abuse theirs between 50 hour engine/box rebuilds.
Can I run it myself or am I going to hire someone to look after it on track days.
What can I expect to spend on consumables? Tyres, brakes etc?
Is there a resource somewhere for looking after radicals?
Cheers,
Mike.
Hi Mike
I tested a SR1 with Radical a few years ago with a view to joining the first year of the SR1 Cup. In the end, I decided to buy a SR3 instead, because at 6'4", the SR1 was on the edge of being just a bit too tight for me, but despite owning an R500, a GT3 and a very hot Megane, the SR1 convinced me that this was the way to do track days.
The SR1 is a much simpler car to own and run than the SR3 and the unit is little more than a stock Hayabusa unit, so with regular oil and filter changes and chain checking/adjustment, it shouldn't be problematic to own and run. Because of its light weight and aero, consumables like tyres and brakes don't take the same sort of battering that your BMW would have suffered and the tyres shouldn't be any dearer than the BMW.
I gave up track days with the SR3 due to noise issues, but the SR1 doesn't suffer the same problems. Having gone racing instead, I have Corinium Motorsport at Cirencester looking after the car, so you could do worse than ringing Neil Cox for his view on the merits or otherwise of an SR1 and certainly, if you choose to buy one, having someone like him with you at your first trackday would be a very good starting point.
Hope this helps.
I tested a SR1 with Radical a few years ago with a view to joining the first year of the SR1 Cup. In the end, I decided to buy a SR3 instead, because at 6'4", the SR1 was on the edge of being just a bit too tight for me, but despite owning an R500, a GT3 and a very hot Megane, the SR1 convinced me that this was the way to do track days.
The SR1 is a much simpler car to own and run than the SR3 and the unit is little more than a stock Hayabusa unit, so with regular oil and filter changes and chain checking/adjustment, it shouldn't be problematic to own and run. Because of its light weight and aero, consumables like tyres and brakes don't take the same sort of battering that your BMW would have suffered and the tyres shouldn't be any dearer than the BMW.
I gave up track days with the SR3 due to noise issues, but the SR1 doesn't suffer the same problems. Having gone racing instead, I have Corinium Motorsport at Cirencester looking after the car, so you could do worse than ringing Neil Cox for his view on the merits or otherwise of an SR1 and certainly, if you choose to buy one, having someone like him with you at your first trackday would be a very good starting point.
Hope this helps.
I have done 2 seasons in the sr1 cup in a used car yr 1 and a new one yr 2 and I run myself with a little basic knowledge. My son helps on race days sometimes.
In year 1 I replaced the pads and discs because they were old, year 2 I have just replaced n/s rear wheel bearing because it had slight wear. Paddle shift is essential. It looks after the gear box!
They are a doddle to look after and run. On race/test days, its a matter of checking tyre pressures, refuelling,getting engine temps right with a bit of tape first thing, making sure the wheel nuts are torqued up first thing, lubing chain, keep an eye on the the chain tension but it rarely moves.
It takes 15 mins between each run, max, and half of that time is calming down. Hardest thing to master is getting the rear clam off cleanly on your own. There is a nack and once mastered ,easier than having 2 people. I have relocated the lights plug so I can plug it in after the clam is on.
The only adjustments I do, race day, are swapping roll bars occasionally and softening/stiffening the shocks. Engine needs refreshing .Radical say 60hrs which is 2 years In the cup, I know of engines going over 100hrs if looked after and not over reved before a refresh.
It takes me half a day to clean and prep the car between days.
They are so reliable that if prepped properly, they need very little on race day.
Radicals engine chaps are constantly plugging in and keep an eye on the engine. James ,their tech guy, is the most helpful and knowledgeable guy in the world. Always eager to help. If you prang it, they all pile in and help if you need it.
Pads, discs, chain, engine refresh, in fact pretty much everything will last 2 years in sr1 cup with testing day before. Front tyres will do 1 season racing in fact I have never worn them out. rears may need changing but become test tyres after that. Just need to do oil/filter change regularly. Don't put it in reverse and the diff seems reliable.
For trackday use they will last forever, only problem would be everybody else being so slow although a Radical is like having a get past free card , the others jump out of the way mostly. You will be shocked at how late you can brake and how much speed you can carry round corners.
I have had a blinding 2 years, have managed to finish every race and hit nothing.
My 2016 MY car is for sale on rad website if your interested, along with a few others, although I am seriously tempted at doing a third year.Radical do "looking after" very well and it makes the SR1 cup so novice friendly.
If you want a look round one and your down south, your welcome to have a look if seriously interested in buying an SR1.
In year 1 I replaced the pads and discs because they were old, year 2 I have just replaced n/s rear wheel bearing because it had slight wear. Paddle shift is essential. It looks after the gear box!
They are a doddle to look after and run. On race/test days, its a matter of checking tyre pressures, refuelling,getting engine temps right with a bit of tape first thing, making sure the wheel nuts are torqued up first thing, lubing chain, keep an eye on the the chain tension but it rarely moves.
It takes 15 mins between each run, max, and half of that time is calming down. Hardest thing to master is getting the rear clam off cleanly on your own. There is a nack and once mastered ,easier than having 2 people. I have relocated the lights plug so I can plug it in after the clam is on.
The only adjustments I do, race day, are swapping roll bars occasionally and softening/stiffening the shocks. Engine needs refreshing .Radical say 60hrs which is 2 years In the cup, I know of engines going over 100hrs if looked after and not over reved before a refresh.
It takes me half a day to clean and prep the car between days.
They are so reliable that if prepped properly, they need very little on race day.
Radicals engine chaps are constantly plugging in and keep an eye on the engine. James ,their tech guy, is the most helpful and knowledgeable guy in the world. Always eager to help. If you prang it, they all pile in and help if you need it.
Pads, discs, chain, engine refresh, in fact pretty much everything will last 2 years in sr1 cup with testing day before. Front tyres will do 1 season racing in fact I have never worn them out. rears may need changing but become test tyres after that. Just need to do oil/filter change regularly. Don't put it in reverse and the diff seems reliable.
For trackday use they will last forever, only problem would be everybody else being so slow although a Radical is like having a get past free card , the others jump out of the way mostly. You will be shocked at how late you can brake and how much speed you can carry round corners.
I have had a blinding 2 years, have managed to finish every race and hit nothing.
My 2016 MY car is for sale on rad website if your interested, along with a few others, although I am seriously tempted at doing a third year.Radical do "looking after" very well and it makes the SR1 cup so novice friendly.
If you want a look round one and your down south, your welcome to have a look if seriously interested in buying an SR1.
Edited by Gc285 on Thursday 2nd March 08:01
Edited by Gc285 on Thursday 2nd March 08:10
Edited by Gc285 on Friday 3rd March 08:17
Hi MPIT and GC and Bert. Just a quick note that may help you with the SR1 case. Following an SR1 trial day with Radical and experiencing the cars capabilities we also thought it would be ideal for track days. We purchased used with paddle shift and a freshly rebuilt engine directly from Radical and a new Race Shuttle trailer and I joined my 2 lads to run this set up for a year on a track day basis only. Unlike GC285 I have never run it as a one man team but I know GC does this successfully. I think its the rear housing that would be the main problem so worth getting a lesson from him.
Radical supplied a day prep and training day at track side to get us going and this helped a lot. Over a year the running costs were just oil changes, tyres and chain lube. We also went for a set of wets and a set of slicks rather than the control tyres as we were not racing and didn't have to conform to the SR1 Cup series build. Once we got used to the setting up procedure observing oil and water temps, chain lube, tyre set up etc running this race was a piece of cake. Our car covered around 60 hrs before we encountered a 4th gear noise while warning up at Spa circuit and had to put it back on the trailer and hire a car for the two days which worked out fine in the end even though it did cost. I think our car may have run the sequential manual gearbox early in its life and this had contributed to the failure, but a rebuild was due anyway and apart from that it performed without fault.
We traded up to the latest SR3 RSX and love this cars capabilities.
If you think I can help you in any way please shout or email me. Regards Ray.
Radical supplied a day prep and training day at track side to get us going and this helped a lot. Over a year the running costs were just oil changes, tyres and chain lube. We also went for a set of wets and a set of slicks rather than the control tyres as we were not racing and didn't have to conform to the SR1 Cup series build. Once we got used to the setting up procedure observing oil and water temps, chain lube, tyre set up etc running this race was a piece of cake. Our car covered around 60 hrs before we encountered a 4th gear noise while warning up at Spa circuit and had to put it back on the trailer and hire a car for the two days which worked out fine in the end even though it did cost. I think our car may have run the sequential manual gearbox early in its life and this had contributed to the failure, but a rebuild was due anyway and apart from that it performed without fault.
We traded up to the latest SR3 RSX and love this cars capabilities.
If you think I can help you in any way please shout or email me. Regards Ray.
Tyres and fuel.
Chain will need doing every couple of years. Keep an eye on wheel bearings. warm up properly and keep within limits. change oil and filter every 3 outings.
They tend to be pretty reliable and on a trackday will never get the stress of racing.
A good check over between outings and for a trackday, Radical spec set up works fine.
Chain will need doing every couple of years. Keep an eye on wheel bearings. warm up properly and keep within limits. change oil and filter every 3 outings.
They tend to be pretty reliable and on a trackday will never get the stress of racing.
A good check over between outings and for a trackday, Radical spec set up works fine.
Gc285 said:
Radical charge about £4k + vat if nothing wrong. If it is running fine and data is good 100+ hours is not uncommon before refresh for an SR1 spec 1340...The quaife diff I never serviced. GDU in an Sr3 is about £1500 I think.
Talk to RPE or RLM.
I'm with most of the comments on here, but I've never had a bill as low as £4k plus GnT from RPE! RLM are a very good alternative if you don't need the RPE seal.Talk to RPE or RLM.
For track days you should consider whether you want slicks and wets or just the control tyres. Slicks and wets much better, but a bit of a faff and very much of a faff if it's damp. It can be very frustrating with slower cars on trackdays. As a race car the Radical loves being flat out getting a nice rhythm of the circuit. The slower cars can be quite annoying.
I had a blast in my clubsport at trackdays before I started racing. It was quick with it's little 1100cc motor!
Couldn't resist, first season of racing...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrvFcyrNipM
Bert
BertBert said:
I'm with most of the comments on here, but I've never had a bill as low as £4k plus GnT from RPE! RLM are a very good alternative if you don't need the RPE seal.
For track days you should consider whether you want slicks and wets or just the control tyres. Slicks and wets much better, but a bit of a faff and very much of a faff if it's damp. It can be very frustrating with slower cars on trackdays. As a race car the Radical loves being flat out getting a nice rhythm of the circuit. The slower cars can be quite annoying.
I had a blast in my clubsport at trackdays before I started racing. It was quick with it's little 1100cc motor!
Couldn't resist, first season of racing...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrvFcyrNipM
Bert
Great vid Bert.For track days you should consider whether you want slicks and wets or just the control tyres. Slicks and wets much better, but a bit of a faff and very much of a faff if it's damp. It can be very frustrating with slower cars on trackdays. As a race car the Radical loves being flat out getting a nice rhythm of the circuit. The slower cars can be quite annoying.
I had a blast in my clubsport at trackdays before I started racing. It was quick with it's little 1100cc motor!
Couldn't resist, first season of racing...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrvFcyrNipM
Bert
Tested an SR1 this week and was blown away.
Why have I wasted my time in Porsche’s, Caterhams and Lotuses at Trackdays?
BertBert said:
Was watching the SR1s at BH today (2nd race) and they looked a bit weird coming round Paddock Hill bend. Looked like lots of on/off grip on the treaded tyres. Do they work ok?
bert
I've heard they can be twitchy in the wet. bert
The tyres work much better in the dry.
Then again a lot of cars under 500kg's can be tricky in the wet!
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