Radical PR6 setup for hillclimb / sprints

[noodle1]

Hi All,

I have just purchased a Radical PR6 to be used as a hillclimb sprint car in Scotland. I'm looking for some set up advice/pointers to get the car right for these events any help would be much appreciated as the car has been previously setup for track racing in the clubmans cup.
There are a few steps needed to make to make it compliant with the sports libre class that shouldn't have a great impact (hopefully) on the cars basic setup.

Thanks in advance
Stevie

[AJWSNR]

Switch to Avon a15 radial tyres and reduce camber front and back to suit your driving. Be carefull as the rose joint threads may be too short(longer available from merlin.soften springs dramatically to about 60 per cent of racing spec .g 350 lb.
You can email me [e-mail] .running pr6 1585cc on irishillclimb championship.

[SportsLibre]

AJWSNR said:

Switch to Avon a15 radial tyres and reduce camber front and back to suit your driving. Be carefull as the rose joint threads may be too short(longer available from merlin.soften springs dramatically to about 60 per cent of racing spec .g 350 lb.
You can email me [e-mail] .running pr6 1585cc on irishillclimb championship.

Fully agree, very sound advice, the circuit springs and tyres will be far to hard. Particularly for the hills you need the car to be more compliant. Other than that the car should be great, there may be opportunities to loose weight. Does the PR6 run 8" and 10" wheels? if not, consider getting the wider wheels.

[noodle1]

AJWSNR said:

Switch to Avon a15 radial tyres and reduce camber front and back to suit your driving. Be carefull as the rose joint threads may be too short(longer available from merlin.soften springs dramatically to about 60 per cent of racing spec .g 350 lb.
You can email me [e-mail] .running pr6 1585cc on irishillclimb championship.

Cheers for that, sounds similar to my thoughts but had no idea of how soft to go spring wise and tyre types, how much roughly a tyre for the Avon? I'll drop you an email towards the end of the weekend. How have you found the PR6 for hills? Ours is just the 210 1340 but a big step from a x flow westfield

[noodle1]

SportsLibre said:

Fully agree, very sound advice, the circuit springs and tyres will be far to hard. Particularly for the hills you need the car to be more compliant. Other than that the car should be great, there may be opportunities to loose weight. Does the PR6 run 8" and 10" wheels? if not, consider getting the wider wheels.

Thanks I think it does run the wider wheels but will have to confirm. Is there any areas you can suggest losing weight from?

[mnrvortxf20c]

The pr6 will be very very good on hills and better on longer faster sprints!
My prosport was quick enough but a pr6 will be even better!
Drop matt carter a Line, he's very helpful and mega fast on the hills and sprints. Watch his youtube vids as well to see what can be done with a modest 1340!

[mnrvortxf20c]

With regards to Weight loss, assuming your not going circuit racing, all lighting and looms can be removed. Battery swap for a lithium cell, vented discs for solids.fire extinguisher.big fuel tank etc.Basically anything that isn't a must have, needs removing!

[AJWSNR]

Look BMTR site for Avon princes .don't stint on tyres ,they are your connection to earth and most hill climbers use old set for practice and save new for last runs. They need covering with black film after use as light will dry them out. Grip phenomenal . Keep an eye to uphillracers site and s/h tyres come up occasionally. The issue of springs is personal ,we have bumpy hills in Ireland and need lots of movement but problem is not a lot of travel in pr suspension and car can bottom out. We are going to use kevlar wear pad for rough hills. Also get selection of soft to hard roll bars.we are running 1585 and can rattle sr8 and lant 2.5 warrior. Pr6 like a kart on tight hills

[SportsLibre]

mnrvortxf20c said:

With regards to Weight loss, assuming your not going circuit racing, all lighting and looms can be removed. Battery swap for a lithium cell, vented discs for solids.fire extinguisher.big fuel tank etc.Basically anything that isn't a must have, needs removing!

That about covers it, it you don't want or need it, remove it as with all hillclimb cars. Don't forget to set the corner weights.

[noodle1]

mnrvortxf20c said:

The pr6 will be very very good on hills and better on longer faster sprints!
My prosport was quick enough but a pr6 will be even better!
Drop matt carter a Line, he's very helpful and mega fast on the hills and sprints. Watch his youtube vids as well to see what can be done with a modest 1340!

I'm definitely looking forward to the coming season, I watched Matts YouTube videos and he can definitely shift, what would be the best way to get in touch with him?

[noodle1]

mnrvortxf20c said:

With regards to Weight loss, assuming your not going circuit racing, all lighting and looms can be removed. Battery swap for a lithium cell, vented discs for solids.fire extinguisher.big fuel tank etc.Basically anything that isn't a must have, needs removing!

Cool I'll have a look into them all, we will hopefully be doing the odd track night at knockHill as testing learning experience prior to the season start so we might have to hold off on some of them

[noodle1]

AJWSNR said:

Look BMTR site for Avon princes .don't stint on tyres ,they are your connection to earth and most hill climbers use old set for practice and save new for last runs. They need covering with black film after use as light will dry them out. Grip phenomenal . Keep an eye to uphillracers site and s/h tyres come up occasionally. The issue of springs is personal ,we have bumpy hills in Ireland and need lots of movement but problem is not a lot of travel in pr suspension and car can bottom out. We are going to use kevlar wear pad for rough hills. Also get selection of soft to hard roll bars.we are running 1585 and can rattle sr8 and lant 2.5 warrior. Pr6 like a kart on tight hills

Thanks I'll check out the website, we're getting 12 wheels as part of the package so it should be easy enough to have the right tyres available, was thinking a new /good set, a more used set and a set of wets, do you think that's a sensible way to go and have you any experience with wets?
It's also coming with a variety of roll bars but unsure of which spec

[noodle1]

SportsLibre said:

That about covers it, it you don't want or need it, remove it as with all hillclimb cars. Don't forget to set the corner weights.

Thanks I'll add that to my list, our initial setup is getting done by Tim Gray so hopefully for the first year we won't have to play about to much until we have the feeling for the car

[kartaphilos]

Hi Noodle,

My car is basically as it left the factory. I've put on Avon's and lowered the front camber to about 1.8deg and corrected the toe. I did that myself in the garage so a winter task is get it setup properly, corner weighted, and setting of front ride height (as the front Avons are smaller diameter than the Dunlops it was setup for). Not sure what springs are in it but they don't seem too hard or too soft, probably something to get tested just so I know. When the wing is wound up to the higher settings you get some front understeer, I've put on some dive planes to balance it out. I also run A92 compound at a lot of the shorter events, anything around a minute or less, and that also helps balance out the understeer and makes it nice and pointy. I used them at Anglesey international and that was just under 90 secs and they seem to last.

The best modification I made was adding the stick on oil heaters to the oil tank and putting a cooling fan on the water rad, saved so much hassle (and engine hours) getting the oil up to temp without boiling the water. One less thing to worry about... and pretty sure it would come in useful in Scotland :-)

Before taking lots of bits off it I'd drive it as much as you can and get seat time, Knockhill should be good for shaking it down.

Matt

[noodle1]

kartaphilos said:

Hi Noodle,

My car is basically as it left the factory. I've put on Avon's and lowered the front camber to about 1.8deg and corrected the toe. I did that myself in the garage so a winter task is get it setup properly, corner weighted, and setting of front ride height (as the front Avons are smaller diameter than the Dunlops it was setup for). Not sure what springs are in it but they don't seem too hard or too soft, probably something to get tested just so I know. When the wing is wound up to the higher settings you get some front understeer, I've put on some dive planes to balance it out. I also run A92 compound at a lot of the shorter events, anything around a minute or less, and that also helps balance out the understeer and makes it nice and pointy. I used them at Anglesey international and that was just under 90 secs and they seem to last.

The best modification I made was adding the stick on oil heaters to the oil tank and putting a cooling fan on the water rad, saved so much hassle (and engine hours) getting the oil up to temp without boiling the water. One less thing to worry about... and pretty sure it would come in useful in Scotland :-)

Before taking lots of bits off it I'd drive it as much as you can and get seat time, Knockhill should be good for shaking it down.

Matt

Thanks Matt that sounds like some good advice. KnockHill is not far away so I think a good few nights there will be need to get used to how she drives, paddleshfit.
Regards rear wing do you run the biplane style? How did you get around the regulations max 90cn height limit?
With regards to ride height is this easily adjustable and what would you normally run for events?
Are the rear Avon the same diameter as the Dunlop? What's the difference between A15 and A92 compounds and how long would you expect a set to las Most holls/ sprints in Scotland and sub 90 secs, what tyre pressure would you generally run at events?
We've got the sump heater pads though I think it would require taking a generator to events unless you can recommend another type, what size fan did you fit and was it simple enough?
Thanks
Stevie

[stiglet]

I've been out of Radicals for a few years but from memory, whilst A92 front A15 rear would be fine for Hillclimbs, even though most sprints are short in Scotland they are very twisty and hard on the front tyres.

Boyndie/Kames/Golspie cooks A92 fronts (esp n/s) and you end up heat gunning/ rasping all the time IIRC

So if you've got plenty rims a set of sep. Hillclimb fronts with A92s and sprint A15s may be a good shout.

As for tyre pressures, I used to run Crossplies so can't help there.

Angus, looks likeat least 3-4 Radicals in C1 next year...........fancy coming back -where's your old one?

[mnrvortxf20c]

There's another one coming back too!

[stiglet]

I know.... there may still be a few bits for it in my garage

If whoever bought it fancies a double entry with someone old and slow,I'd be happy to oblige/provide heatgun and generator


Edited to remove the words "give Angus a call"

Edited by stiglet on Monday 13th October 22:33

[Coldaswell]

stiglet said:

If whoever bought it fancies a double entry with someone old and slow,I'd be happy to oblige

Lol

[scooby151]

Hi, I run a 1300 PR6 for hillclimbs in Malta (where the roads aren't so good) , which last for a max of 60sec. I use A92 front and rear, since I don't have the power. Found them to be very good. I also run 8inch front and 10rear. Weight loss is my passion in life :-p the car's weight not mine ;-). I have mine down to 431 kgs (excluding fuel). If I could be of any help, let me know :-)
P.s. This is a video to show you what I mean when I say our roads are crap ;-)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ikWSJj5jby0