Anyone got CF side skirts and/or PR6 side pods
Discussion
I can tell you're a man who knows what he's talking about...interior design course? b
d love child of Lawrence Lewellyn Bowen?
In all seriousness, I just fancied refreshing some of the body bits to make it 'mine' and like the front wheel exit to rad entry pods of the pr6.
I promise the normal service of driving the car hard and thoroughly enjoying it will be resumed when I get a dry day or two.
d love child of Lawrence Lewellyn Bowen?In all seriousness, I just fancied refreshing some of the body bits to make it 'mine' and like the front wheel exit to rad entry pods of the pr6.
I promise the normal service of driving the car hard and thoroughly enjoying it will be resumed when I get a dry day or two.
nightSpirit said:
I can tell you're a man who knows what he's talking about...interior design course? bd love child of Lawrence Lewellyn Bowen?
In all seriousness, I just fancied refreshing some of the body bits to make it 'mine' and like the front wheel exit to rad entry pods of the pr6.
I promise the normal service of driving the car hard and thoroughly enjoying it will be resumed when I get a dry day or two.
More of a Kirstie Allsopp man myself!d love child of Lawrence Lewellyn Bowen?In all seriousness, I just fancied refreshing some of the body bits to make it 'mine' and like the front wheel exit to rad entry pods of the pr6.
I promise the normal service of driving the car hard and thoroughly enjoying it will be resumed when I get a dry day or two.
Anyway, you seem to have passed the first test (GSOH) and can now move on to the next level.......
So that I can try to be helpful, what sort of SR3 is it - the old type with monolithic front and unvented pods or the more recent RS type with raised central nose section and vented pods?
I'm with Bert on this.
No matter what engine, aero pack, or Fablon design you have, the only points of contact with the road and thus available for the transmission of forces are the tyre contact patches. You owe it to yourself to make these as effective as possible by using good rubber to start with and maintaining it (Surform or heatgun & scraper). You also have to accept that slicks have a shelf life and need to be replaced fairly regularly - as soon as you use them they start deteriorating and going hard. Unless you do a lot of driving they may well have oxidised their way to "ceramic" status long before the "tread" is worn out. However, do not despair! Provided you have a good amount of rubber left there are two routes available to you:
So, that's tyres dealt with, now to seat-time. If you’re a fan of Malcolm Gladwell’s work, your mind may already have jumped to the concept of 10,000 hours of preparation. Gladwell’s latest book "Outliers" popularises the work of K. Anderson Ericsson and the notion that the key to success in any field is achieving 10 years or 10,000 hours of practice. While this is possibly an overstatement, it is clear from modern performance psychology that, for high achievement, both inate talent and considerable structured practice are required. By structured practice I mean consistently and repeatedly "doing it right" not mindlessly "doing it wrong" hoping that by some random conjunction of circumstances "right" might occur. An SR3 (even an old one) will go round corners faster than may currently strike you as possible. So get out on the track (with some good instruction if possible) and get those hours in!
And, finally, to your pods (if you'll forgive the familiarity). The vented side pods that you see on PR6s, SR3 RSs and early Clubsports and Prosports with one my (or one of Arc Angels') aero packs are part of a high (front) downforce combination that starts with a diffuser Front Under Tray. Fitting the FUT on its own will deliver around 10-20% of the potential extra front D/F but the addition of the extractor pods opens up the airflow from the diffuser exits and liberates the other 80-90%. Fitting extractor side pods without the trick FUT to your SR3 will not do any harm. The biggest problem is sourcing them. BIG R charge some £1200 each for them and I don't know an independent source of extractor pods to fit SR3/8s. Now, were you to fit a high D/F kit to the front of the car you would obviously need to increase the rear D/F to match......................... And thus starts the endless pursuit of aerodynamic perfection and an empty wallet.
Probably best to follow BB's advice advice. Spend your money on tyres and track-time until you're driving at 100% and looking for 110!
No matter what engine, aero pack, or Fablon design you have, the only points of contact with the road and thus available for the transmission of forces are the tyre contact patches. You owe it to yourself to make these as effective as possible by using good rubber to start with and maintaining it (Surform or heatgun & scraper). You also have to accept that slicks have a shelf life and need to be replaced fairly regularly - as soon as you use them they start deteriorating and going hard. Unless you do a lot of driving they may well have oxidised their way to "ceramic" status long before the "tread" is worn out. However, do not despair! Provided you have a good amount of rubber left there are two routes available to you:
- tyre softener
- hand cutting to an "Intermediate" pattern
So, that's tyres dealt with, now to seat-time. If you’re a fan of Malcolm Gladwell’s work, your mind may already have jumped to the concept of 10,000 hours of preparation. Gladwell’s latest book "Outliers" popularises the work of K. Anderson Ericsson and the notion that the key to success in any field is achieving 10 years or 10,000 hours of practice. While this is possibly an overstatement, it is clear from modern performance psychology that, for high achievement, both inate talent and considerable structured practice are required. By structured practice I mean consistently and repeatedly "doing it right" not mindlessly "doing it wrong" hoping that by some random conjunction of circumstances "right" might occur. An SR3 (even an old one) will go round corners faster than may currently strike you as possible. So get out on the track (with some good instruction if possible) and get those hours in!
And, finally, to your pods (if you'll forgive the familiarity). The vented side pods that you see on PR6s, SR3 RSs and early Clubsports and Prosports with one my (or one of Arc Angels') aero packs are part of a high (front) downforce combination that starts with a diffuser Front Under Tray. Fitting the FUT on its own will deliver around 10-20% of the potential extra front D/F but the addition of the extractor pods opens up the airflow from the diffuser exits and liberates the other 80-90%. Fitting extractor side pods without the trick FUT to your SR3 will not do any harm. The biggest problem is sourcing them. BIG R charge some £1200 each for them and I don't know an independent source of extractor pods to fit SR3/8s. Now, were you to fit a high D/F kit to the front of the car you would obviously need to increase the rear D/F to match......................... And thus starts the endless pursuit of aerodynamic perfection and an empty wallet.
Probably best to follow BB's advice advice. Spend your money on tyres and track-time until you're driving at 100% and looking for 110!
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