Any tips for clutch bleeding?

[dunc_sx]

The engine's been out and back in and the clutch pedal doesn't seem to have any pressure in it at all, completely slack.

I've checked the MC piston is moving correctly and there's on leaks in the MC or anywhere else. There's fluid in the reservoir and some in the line but I suspect that there's enough air in the line to prevent enough hydraulic pressure building up to remove the air/push the fluid through?

With the bleed valve open any amount of pedal pumping results in no fluid movement and zero resistance in the pedal.

Other things it could be as far as I can tell are dodgey MC or an issue with the slave or rod at the engine?

Dunc.

[splitpin]

Assuming that Lady Luck is not in an impossibly vicious mood i.e that all was well pre-engine removal, it has to be air, which can play all sorts of annoying tricks compared to a 'solid' liquid, so are you using a buddy and is he/she well trained in the black art?

[dunc_sx]

sniggers at the ready....

The pedal is fully floppy Trev, no resistance either way. Push it down and it just goes over and stays down under its own weight. Lift it up and do the same again, it's not bleeding fluid as we know it, doesn't seem very productive.

I thought I might have left the hydraulics connected and just removed the slave cylinder from the engine casing, apparently not though!

I shall check it out in greater detail next time.

Cheers,

Dunc.

[minitici]

Try a pressure or vacuum bleeder.

[BertBert]

Surely if the MC doesn't pump fluid, it's knacked?

[DarcySmith]

Hi
If this doesn't work,the master cylinder has failed
Bolt it all back together,and make sure the pedal is right back
Fill a clean old fashioned oil can with fluid
Open the slave bleed screw,and through a tube,pump fluid back up the system.
That will force all the air out.

Darcy

[dunc_sx]

Thanks for the responses chaps, I'll investigate further

Excuse this silly question (I've not had many dealings with MC's) but the caps on all three of the MC's (two brake, one clutch) state the same part number - is this correct?

Cheers,

Dunc.

[splitpin]

Pretty sure they are not all the same.

Might that be the Part No of the cap, with the Part No of the actual MC stamped or cast into it's ally body?

[dunc_sx]

Only had a quick look on top so yes that could easily be the case, I shall have a look

Cheers,

Dunc.

[dunc_sx]

Turns out the master cylinder piston had seized in the in position, so the pedal and rod was just flapping about. Removed it and managed to free it off and it's working now.

I then reverse bled the system as recommended on here, thanks

Going to order a new one on Monday to replace it as a precaution (or keep as spare), the current one is 5/8 (0.625). Now the clutch has always dragged a tiny bit. It's still drive-able but you notice it when initially selecting a gear and if manually pushing it in gear with the clutch depressed.

Just wanted to check this is the correct clutch MC, it looks like the original so I assume it is.

Dunc.

Edit - oh and what thread am I after for the hydraulic connection?

Edited by dunc_sx on Saturday 6th July 20:13

[dunc_sx]

I'm just speaking to myself here but for anyone that finds this in future I think the three MC's are:-

(All intergral Girling) on a 2 pot rear and 4 pot front calipers (all wilwood)

Clutch - 0.625
Rear brake - 0.7
Front brake - 0.75

Rgds,

Dunc.

Edited by dunc_sx on Wednesday 10th July 12:21

[splitpin]

Cheers Dunc

Meant to mention - that teeny bit of dragging - do make sure you push in the slave cylinder as there can be a little bit of air 'trapped' in there; it can lay there 'forever' because the whole clutch hydraulic system is much the same level on a Rad.

Trev

[dunc_sx]

Good shout, cheers Trev