Dry sump heater pad

[jpivey]

Hi
Looking to buy a heater pad for the dry sump tank.
Any ideas??

Thanks
J-P

[LCM]

jpivey said:

Hi
Looking to buy a heater pad for the dry sump tank.
Any ideas??

Thanks
J-P

Radu has done a lot of work on this so expect him along soon to give you the appropriate links.

[blueg33]

I fitted one to my Tuscan. Google Wolverine sump heaters. 10 minutes to install.

Oil Heater

They ship worldwide

Edited by blueg33 on Friday 12th April 12:30

[splitpin]

I think that DD was one of the first to source and fit these, so I guess he'll pop along sometime with some good advice?

Incidentally, I notice from the Big R's Used Car Showroom that several of the latest cars now appear to have engine oil preheaters fitted, whereas they didn't initially fit them when others already were.

[paulmj]

I have two on mine. One on the 'sump' and one around the bottom of the oil tank. They do a great job. I run them on a timer (a few mins on, a few mins off etc) for half an hour or so before first start of the day. The problem I then have is stopping the oil temp from dropping again when sat in the assembly area......

[BioBa]

I use the Wolverine on my "sump". Works great to reduce warm up time and maintain temp during cold mornings. I also want to put one arround the oil tank to save even more time.
I use no timer as I need to put in as much heat as possible.

[viperu]

Here's the link to the wolverind product:

http://www.wolverineheater.com/product-p/16.htm

I've installed 2 pcs of 250W with a fibreglass heat blanket over them and the oil is rising 30-35c deg in 20 minutes


IMG_2135


IMG_3103

[Josh Smith]

I am just about to buy one from here for the bottom of the dry sump tank.

http://www.engineheaters.co.uk/

[viperu]

engineheaters.co.uk is the same product as woverine engine heaters

[jpivey]

Thanks for the info, so is it best to put on the bottom of the tank or around the tank.
As there American how does it work don't they use different voltage out there and what about the plug.

Thanks

[blueg33]

jpivey said:

Thanks for the info, so is it best to put on the bottom of the tank or around the tank.
As there American how does it work don't they use different voltage out there and what about the plug.

Thanks

I cut the plug off mine and wired a 3 pin uk plug. Live and neutral can be either way round, no earth required. On the Tuscan it went on the bottom of the sump tank

[viperu]

240V version comes with no power plug.

Due to the high thermal conductivity of aluminium material of the sump tank I think they can be mounted either to the bottom or the top of the tank it will be similar. I installed it round the tank because I wanted to avoid mounting it to close to the rear undertray.

[Laurence7]

A dumb question perhaps, but how do you connect the unit to the mains?
Presumably you don't (in the UK) have a three-pin plug dangling around in the engine bay.

[BioBa]

Australian plug zip-tied in a way to plug it from the rear of the car (without removing any body panels). Added a little silicon for additional water-proofing.

[DarcySmith]

The tanks on the 6 and the 3,are considerably larger than the 4

I find the warm up time on my SR4 is not too bad


Darcy

[BertBert]

Many people have tried oil and coolant heaters to try to reduce the warm up time (me inc). In a sense there is no point as the engine running does a much better job. If you are trying to get more of your warranty hours to be on load than just warming up they may help. However some stats I did with Radical last year show that they have little effect.

I'm not sure they are worth the effort. Juat run the engine.

Bert

[Count Johnny]

Or this:

[jpivey]

BertBert
To be honest I'm not bothered about the engine hours it just takes so long to get the oil up to temp. Just wanted something to speed the process up, I spoke to RPE about a smaller dry sump tank as I can't see why it needs such a big capacity tank told me a bad idea, then my first 6 was wet sump had no oil issues with it.

[splitpin]

jpivey said:

...... it just takes so long to get the oil up to temp.

For sure it's a pain having a hare-like water temp and a snail-like oil temp; using the two stage warming process (in combo with stuffing a fleece into the oil radiator duct) does help, but it's still a palaver that has to be scheduled into the pre-race assembly prep.

And from what BertBert has said about the heater pads, it seems to me that not disimilar money might be better spent on sticking a thermostatic sucker fan onto the water rad; we had one on the dry-sumped 4 and a side benefit of that was that warming up from completely cold was no problem at all - you just ran the engine for as long as it took (starting to rev it a bit as it reached towards 'give it some' temps), with no worrying about whether the water temp was going sky high and then away you went.

[BertBert]

It must be spring Trev as we are in agreement again!

Only problem is more weight in the already porky full spec Sr3.

Bert