Sr3 buying advice.
Discussion
Hi all,
After years to buy or not to buy, I have finally decided to purchase a radical a
Sr3. Before jumping in at the deep end, just a few questions to those in the know to hopefully point me
In the right direction.
What are the main points/ problems to look out for, weak points etc.
main differences between years of manufacture, I am probably looking at cars between 2006 to 2010.
Is it true that the foam brakes down in the fuel tanks after about 4 years? If so can you get a tank without the foam (only
using for track days) so it does not have to comply with any regs,.
Are there any issues with the paddle shift system, and if I find a car without paddle shift is it easy to upgrade and likely cost.
1500 engine reliability compared to 1300. Is the later engine k8 , better then the older model?
Also does anyone know if it will fit in a standard garage. If not I am looking at getting book a track to transport t for me, the only problem with that is I will have to maintain it trackside, instead of at my house but it saves me getting a trailer and tow vehicle. If anyone knows any other transport and storage solutions I would be keen to hear it.
Sorry for all the questions .
Thanks.
After years to buy or not to buy, I have finally decided to purchase a radical a
Sr3. Before jumping in at the deep end, just a few questions to those in the know to hopefully point me
In the right direction.
What are the main points/ problems to look out for, weak points etc.
main differences between years of manufacture, I am probably looking at cars between 2006 to 2010.
Is it true that the foam brakes down in the fuel tanks after about 4 years? If so can you get a tank without the foam (only
using for track days) so it does not have to comply with any regs,.
Are there any issues with the paddle shift system, and if I find a car without paddle shift is it easy to upgrade and likely cost.
1500 engine reliability compared to 1300. Is the later engine k8 , better then the older model?
Also does anyone know if it will fit in a standard garage. If not I am looking at getting book a track to transport t for me, the only problem with that is I will have to maintain it trackside, instead of at my house but it saves me getting a trailer and tow vehicle. If anyone knows any other transport and storage solutions I would be keen to hear it.
Sorry for all the questions .
Thanks.
I guess the starting point is that you need to buy on condition especially if it's an older car. Ideally you want a car that has been reasonably properly lifed.
So engine with provable hours after last refresh. 1340 is less stressed than the 1500. Also don't forget the GDU - sposed to be refreshed after 40 hours. ALthough it's not too expensive to do.
Suspension with a log of hours. You want to know that the uprights and wishbones have been changed recently. It's not much fun when they break.
Other stuff is not too bad, Brakes can be inspected, you can check the rack for play etc.
Yes look for tank without foam.
K8 more bhp than K7, but not material for track use.
Paddle shift. Works ok in current guise (all in the Life Ecu and closed loop). Previous guise (piggy back ecu and open loop) ate gearboxes. You don't need it.
Nice to have camera and data logging integrated.
I'm rambling. Night night!
Bert
So engine with provable hours after last refresh. 1340 is less stressed than the 1500. Also don't forget the GDU - sposed to be refreshed after 40 hours. ALthough it's not too expensive to do.
Suspension with a log of hours. You want to know that the uprights and wishbones have been changed recently. It's not much fun when they break.
Other stuff is not too bad, Brakes can be inspected, you can check the rack for play etc.
Yes look for tank without foam.
K8 more bhp than K7, but not material for track use.
Paddle shift. Works ok in current guise (all in the Life Ecu and closed loop). Previous guise (piggy back ecu and open loop) ate gearboxes. You don't need it.
Nice to have camera and data logging integrated.
I'm rambling. Night night!
Bert
I we wasnt looking at a house move i would be swapping the clubsport for an SR3, top of my list would be this one to go and see. http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/r...
here is the current owner's manual with lifing details... http://share.snacktools.com/FF6A9BF569B/ftcfv39c
Thanks for that BertBert, so I am right in thinking that Pre 2008 cars all have wet sumps?
If they do are these problematic .
Will I have to keep changing the gear ratios fom circuit to circuit or can I just use a setup that is suitable for most tracks , since I am not racing.
Do you have to heel and toe if you do not have paddle shift.?
How do you check the engine hours?
If they do are these problematic .
Will I have to keep changing the gear ratios fom circuit to circuit or can I just use a setup that is suitable for most tracks , since I am not racing.
Do you have to heel and toe if you do not have paddle shift.?
How do you check the engine hours?
That SR3 def has a dry sump - you can see the tank on the rhs front of the engine bay looking at the pic from the back.
You won't really need to change ratios. The standard one should do you.
You should H&T without the paddle shift - that's part of the fun!
You can check the engine hours from an ECU download. If it's just been rebuilt by RPE it should be fine. You'll be able to ask them questions about it. It'll be interesting to find it what the engine has done and when it was trasplanted in. The original will have been a K7. You should check that it's running the right ecu and map - again contact RPE if you need to verify stuff.
Bert
You won't really need to change ratios. The standard one should do you.
You should H&T without the paddle shift - that's part of the fun!
You can check the engine hours from an ECU download. If it's just been rebuilt by RPE it should be fine. You'll be able to ask them questions about it. It'll be interesting to find it what the engine has done and when it was trasplanted in. The original will have been a K7. You should check that it's running the right ecu and map - again contact RPE if you need to verify stuff.
Bert
maxgas said:
Do you have to heel and toe if you do not have paddle shift.?
No. You can fit a "Flatshifter" box to allow clutchless up and down shifts (with an auto blip).
These use an "open loop" system which employs a fixed duration (though user adjustable) ignition cut to unload the dogs and allow the gear to change. Some will tell you that this is theoretically inferior to a "closed loop" system (which is true). But a Flatshifter is likely you cost you less than £1k whereas a closed loop system will cost between several and many £k. Both can be operated by gear lever or paddle.
I've used Trickshifter for many years with great success on Radicals and now Force. And, lest I be accused of bias, I have a closed loop system on my SR8 so am in a good position to compare them on a weekly basis and in practice they're both good.
Edited by LCM on Monday 25th February 23:02
That is good to know LCM , considering the cost of the radical system which if you add it up is probably around 6k with all the bits. The thing is I can heel and toe, although I have only recently been doing it, but I think I may need all my concentration on learning how much to push the car with all the downforce. I never used to bother with my fire blade powered caterfield, but then this was not a dog box. At least I have a alternative with the trick shifter.
The wife has just rumbled my plans and has thrown a massive fit!
What about our retirement, we cannot afford it, you are like a spoilt child, why can't you hire one, it will be a 5 minute wonder . HELP!!!
Anyone know a good solicitor.
The wife has just rumbled my plans and has thrown a massive fit!What about our retirement, we cannot afford it, you are like a spoilt child, why can't you hire one, it will be a 5 minute wonder . HELP!!!
Anyone know a good solicitor.
Don't retire!
It's common knowledge that you'll die within 8 months.
I'm coming up to 104, still working and still driving racing cars (and still winning my nurse tells me).
Plus, never, ever tell them how much it costs. I was having lunch with about 10 mates at the track one day and, just as SWMBO approached, somebody said of another competitor's engine re-build that it had cost £7k. SWMBO heard the last part and asked of the assembled company with an innocence that was close to beguiling "These cars don't cost £7k do they?" There was an awful silence and all eyes turned to me......................................
"Oh no Dear, none of our cars cost £7k did they lads?"
And everyone was happy.
Anyway, if you trawl through this forum you'll find quite a few threads on the pros and cons of Flatshifters. But, overall I find their biggest benefit is that when late braking, you only have to worry about two things: stamping on the brake pedal (with the foot of your choice) and turning the wheel. Shimples!
It's common knowledge that you'll die within 8 months.
I'm coming up to 104, still working and still driving racing cars (and still winning my nurse tells me).
Plus, never, ever tell them how much it costs. I was having lunch with about 10 mates at the track one day and, just as SWMBO approached, somebody said of another competitor's engine re-build that it had cost £7k. SWMBO heard the last part and asked of the assembled company with an innocence that was close to beguiling "These cars don't cost £7k do they?" There was an awful silence and all eyes turned to me......................................
"Oh no Dear, none of our cars cost £7k did they lads?"
And everyone was happy.
Anyway, if you trawl through this forum you'll find quite a few threads on the pros and cons of Flatshifters. But, overall I find their biggest benefit is that when late braking, you only have to worry about two things: stamping on the brake pedal (with the foot of your choice) and turning the wheel. Shimples!
Tis true.
You must make peace with the fact that you will never again have an open and honest marriage and - if REALLY pressed - become accustomed to speaking to your wife (and any females with whom she associates) in motorsport units which you will tell your wife are 'pounds' but are actually units amounting to one hundredth of your true expenditure.
You must make peace with the fact that you will never again have an open and honest marriage and - if REALLY pressed - become accustomed to speaking to your wife (and any females with whom she associates) in motorsport units which you will tell your wife are 'pounds' but are actually units amounting to one hundredth of your true expenditure.
I am in the company of some very wise men indeed.
Now I see where I am going wrong !
So the price of my new toy (very important stepping stone to my f1 career) is £6900 divide by 100 = £69.00.!!
Well that is not to bad , I think the budget can stretch to that with some money to spare.
Now who wants a new boiler installed for £20.00
On a more serious note I have just been informed that the k7 engine can go more hours then the k8 between rebuilds.
I thought the k8 was superior?
maxgas said:
Now who wants a new boiler installed for £20.00
Yes Pleasemaxgas said:
On a more serious note I have just been informed that the k7 engine can go more hours then the k8 between rebuilds.
I thought the k8 was superior?
Who gave you that twaddle? No-one anywhere near Peterborough I hope.I thought the k8 was superior?
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