Seized wheel nut and an unhappy gear display
Discussion
Hi Guys,
I'm just about to take my newly arrived SR3 out for its first event, but I have hit a couple of snags.
The lefthand rear wheel nut seems to have seized on solid. I guess it didn't like the sea air on the way to NZ.
So far a 1m breaker bar with a 2.5m pipe on it hasn't budged it!
Any advice for removing it without causing damage please?
Also, the gear selector display seems to have given up. It only wants to show 6ths gear. It worked initially, but now it only wants top gear no matter which gear the box is in. Any thoughts on that one please?
Thanks
Richard
I'm just about to take my newly arrived SR3 out for its first event, but I have hit a couple of snags.
The lefthand rear wheel nut seems to have seized on solid. I guess it didn't like the sea air on the way to NZ.
So far a 1m breaker bar with a 2.5m pipe on it hasn't budged it!
Any advice for removing it without causing damage please?
Also, the gear selector display seems to have given up. It only wants to show 6ths gear. It worked initially, but now it only wants top gear no matter which gear the box is in. Any thoughts on that one please?
Thanks
Richard
Hi Richard
I'm about to insult you............but..........you are trying to undo it the correct way ?......
Often the nuts are put on with air guns and electric guns can't quite match it....so find an airline gun..
Make sure that the nut is not cross threaded by looking really closely and trying to see if the threads/nut are "in line"
Somebody on the brake pedal whilst you apply muscle ?
The breaker bar and extension should be enough but you do need a lot of consistent grunt, but beware it may suddenly give...
When its off ensure you tighten back up with the same gun/mechanism that you want to undo it with.
If using an electric/battery gun make sure fully charged.
Gear change indicator
Same happend to me and the Powerted guys took off the lid on a black box in the passenger side and adjusted the settings from there...best to email them !
D D
I'm about to insult you............but..........you are trying to undo it the correct way ?......
Often the nuts are put on with air guns and electric guns can't quite match it....so find an airline gun..
Make sure that the nut is not cross threaded by looking really closely and trying to see if the threads/nut are "in line"
Somebody on the brake pedal whilst you apply muscle ?
The breaker bar and extension should be enough but you do need a lot of consistent grunt, but beware it may suddenly give...
When its off ensure you tighten back up with the same gun/mechanism that you want to undo it with.
If using an electric/battery gun make sure fully charged.
Gear change indicator
Same happend to me and the Powerted guys took off the lid on a black box in the passenger side and adjusted the settings from there...best to email them !
D D
Hi guys,
No offense taken on the wheel nut direction. I double and triple checked it! It's all new to m, so I am being pretty careful.
Yes, had someone sitting in thee car and on the brakes. My air compressor wasn't even coming close to driving the 3/4 rattle gun, so will take the car to a more powerful compressor. :>)
I've got a suitable torque wrench to do them up to the recommended 200 ft/lb.
Thanks, will email about the gear selector display.
Rich
No offense taken on the wheel nut direction. I double and triple checked it! It's all new to m, so I am being pretty careful.
Yes, had someone sitting in thee car and on the brakes. My air compressor wasn't even coming close to driving the 3/4 rattle gun, so will take the car to a more powerful compressor. :>)
I've got a suitable torque wrench to do them up to the recommended 200 ft/lb.
Thanks, will email about the gear selector display.
Rich
double d racing said:
Hi Richard
I'm about to insult you............but..........you are trying to undo it the correct way ?......
Often the nuts are put on with air guns and electric guns can't quite match it....so find an airline gun..
Make sure that the nut is not cross threaded by looking really closely and trying to see if the threads/nut are "in line"
Somebody on the brake pedal whilst you apply muscle ?
The breaker bar and extension should be enough but you do need a lot of consistent grunt, but beware it may suddenly give...
When its off ensure you tighten back up with the same gun/mechanism that you want to undo it with.
If using an electric/battery gun make sure fully charged.
Gear change indicator
Same happend to me and the Powerted guys took off the lid on a black box in the passenger side and adjusted the settings from there...best to email them !
D D
I'm about to insult you............but..........you are trying to undo it the correct way ?......
Often the nuts are put on with air guns and electric guns can't quite match it....so find an airline gun..
Make sure that the nut is not cross threaded by looking really closely and trying to see if the threads/nut are "in line"
Somebody on the brake pedal whilst you apply muscle ?
The breaker bar and extension should be enough but you do need a lot of consistent grunt, but beware it may suddenly give...
When its off ensure you tighten back up with the same gun/mechanism that you want to undo it with.
If using an electric/battery gun make sure fully charged.
Gear change indicator
Same happend to me and the Powerted guys took off the lid on a black box in the passenger side and adjusted the settings from there...best to email them !
D D
Do you have the added geartronics display or one in the dash (or both)?
If you have the geartronics gear display it can lose its calibration and often needs re-calibrating.
Take top off box.
Press and hold button, display cycles through numbers 1 to 6 being the number of gears.
Press the button once on 6 to select the number of gears.
Then the display tells you the gear and you select that gear and press the button once.
So N - press once in neutral
R - press once in any gear
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 press once when you have selected that gear.
If that doesn't work then you probably have a broken cable or pot sender thingy. A bit of work to change unfortunately.
HTH
Bert
If you have the geartronics gear display it can lose its calibration and often needs re-calibrating.
Take top off box.
Press and hold button, display cycles through numbers 1 to 6 being the number of gears.
Press the button once on 6 to select the number of gears.
Then the display tells you the gear and you select that gear and press the button once.
So N - press once in neutral
R - press once in any gear
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 press once when you have selected that gear.
If that doesn't work then you probably have a broken cable or pot sender thingy. A bit of work to change unfortunately.
HTH
Bert
Yes electric is the way to go but not gun will be stronger than a 1 m breaker with a 2.5 m pipe!
Apply heat, WD40, someone pushing the break plus a chuck and make sure you are turning the right way. Really nothing else you can do. The upright thread is pretty strong which means the only thing you could damage is the wheel nut. Good luck. Once off I use a very small amount of copper anti seize on the wheel nuts.
Apply heat, WD40, someone pushing the break plus a chuck and make sure you are turning the right way. Really nothing else you can do. The upright thread is pretty strong which means the only thing you could damage is the wheel nut. Good luck. Once off I use a very small amount of copper anti seize on the wheel nuts.
It's not just the torque it's the way it's applied. an industrial air gun should shift it. failing that I would drill it off. you need to break the tension on the threads Drill a 4 mm pilot hole inwards from the outside face of the nut parallel with the hub threads and about 4mm away and to the depth of the nut minus 5mm (otherwise you will hit the wheels due to the taper on the nut inner face) then enlarge the hole 0.5 mm at a a time until the hole edge is almost on the steel threads. The nut will then come off easily
Looking good and good to hear!
Put a thorough check of the wheels and centrelocks on your list of things to do; such as the satisfactory condition of the respective meeting tapers on wheels and nuts, that there is about 1mm clearance between the ends of the peg bolts and the depth of the peg holes when the two are mated up (this is real important on the Images you've got) and that the threads of both the CL spindles and the nuts themselves are both sound in fit and nice and clean. Brand new, the wheel and nut tapers look like this >
And unless you need endurance type racing fast tyre swops, I'd recommend that you don't let anyone near your car with a rattle gun for final tightening at 'wheels on'; do that by hand; 200ftlbs isn't any effort at all with a quality torque wrench and if the everything is in order at that torque setting a) they will never come loose and b) they'll never be that difficult to release. I've seen blokes 'hammering and hammering' away with 325ftlb plus electric rattle guns on 'tighten up' on an ally CL nut designed to be torqued to 200ftlbs - and then they wonder why it's difficult to remove and/or has become distorted?
Put a thorough check of the wheels and centrelocks on your list of things to do; such as the satisfactory condition of the respective meeting tapers on wheels and nuts, that there is about 1mm clearance between the ends of the peg bolts and the depth of the peg holes when the two are mated up (this is real important on the Images you've got) and that the threads of both the CL spindles and the nuts themselves are both sound in fit and nice and clean. Brand new, the wheel and nut tapers look like this >
And unless you need endurance type racing fast tyre swops, I'd recommend that you don't let anyone near your car with a rattle gun for final tightening at 'wheels on'; do that by hand; 200ftlbs isn't any effort at all with a quality torque wrench and if the everything is in order at that torque setting a) they will never come loose and b) they'll never be that difficult to release. I've seen blokes 'hammering and hammering' away with 325ftlb plus electric rattle guns on 'tighten up' on an ally CL nut designed to be torqued to 200ftlbs - and then they wonder why it's difficult to remove and/or has become distorted?
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