Washers and Banjo bolt (bottom of dry sump oil tank)

[dunc_sx]

Bit of a long shot but does anyone know where to pick up parts like this? I've got a leak there and was going to replace the washers and also pick up a new banjo bolt just in case. They aren't listed on the Rad site but think the washers are approx 30mm outer Ø if this helps any?

Also should these be copper, the ones currently on my clubbie aren't.

Cheers,

Dunc.

[radical78]

try hfc www.hfchydraulics.co.uk 01430431188

[S26VE P]

Any decent hydralic supplier should have the fittng on the shelf.

[dunc_sx]

Cheers lads, looks like I'll have to drop the 0 miles oil to get the sizes though.

Dunc.

[Martin B]

I thought the washers for the banjo bolts were normally aluminium for oil systems?

[dunc_sx]

Perhaps Martin, should these be replaced once removed then? I dropped the oil (wanted to do it thoroughly because it was running in oil in it) but have had a leak here since tightening everything back up and filling with good oil.

Cheers,

Dunc.

[moochofun]

Hi Dunc - did you get the parts? Try Dingbro (or D&As if you can't get access to a trade account)...

HTH
Ross

[splitpin]

dunc_sx said:

Perhaps Martin, should these be replaced once removed then? I dropped the oil (wanted to do it thoroughly because it was running in oil in it) but have had a leak here since tightening everything back up and filling with good oil.

Cheers,

Dunc.

Ideally (and for the sake of the low cost), yes 'crush washers' should be replaced; 9 times out of 10, you can get away with re-using, but as you've found out, the one time it doesn't work it can make a whole lot of extra work and a lot more frigging about just for the sake of a washer; you can usually tell whether a used washer is likely to give you grief; if it's got grooves or dints or has 'spread' (they are often over-tightened beyond their intended purpose), don't even risk it; sling it and replace with new.

Ally crush washers are used a lot nowadays (I suspect that is something to do with the price of copper) and are a given when something ally is being connected to something ally, but my 'old-fashioned' preference (when one component is something like stainless steel) remains with copper; it's malleability always seems superior to me and it seems to 'crush-mould' better if what it is seating against is a bit tatty. Especially as bi-metallic reaction is hardly an issue on most Radicals i.e. they don't tend to 'salt' tracks.

[dunc_sx]

Removed it and it looks like the current washers aren't that good a fit regardless of their condition, the inner diameter of the washer was a decent bit larger than the outer diameter of the bolt. Got a couple of dowty washers which should do a better job of it

Dunc.

[dunc_sx]

Dowty washers did the trick, dry as a bone Also got the Farringdon wheel fitted, seems fine but the oil pressure reading is weird - think it might be reading in reverse polarity (180 at idle then lowers to about 120 as revs increase), no idea how to change it though. Will give them a call tomorrow it's a bit weird!



Dunc.