Best way to attach front dive planes?
Discussion
If the latest carbon ones rather than the earlier foam filled core GF ones, as the SR3s now have a pair either side (and you might wish to run with none and/or one at some point - some do, several don't) use removeable mechanical fixings: I believe the factory secures nowadays via rivnuts, anyway 3No per plane, effectively both ends and in the middle.
If the earlier ones, with the three right through holes (presumably not as you wouldn't be asking how many?), suitable length bolt with internal washer and nylock.
If the earlier ones, with the three right through holes (presumably not as you wouldn't be asking how many?), suitable length bolt with internal washer and nylock.
Edited by splitpin on Sunday 10th June 12:09
There is also some reinforcement behind the glass fibre in the form of another sheet of something. I can't remember what it is but someone might know. Apparently they have only really had any issues with SR8's and cracking but when I eventually get mine I'll reinforce the sides anyway.
Thanks for the advise. The one thing that bothers me is that with the dive planes I can not store the front panel upright on its nose anymore plus it will become much harder to remove the front by myself. I am driver and pit crew in one and I am almost considering not mounting them for practical reasons.
Any feedback on that?
Any feedback on that?
BioBa said:
Thanks for the advise. The one thing that bothers me is that with the dive planes I can not store the front panel upright on its nose anymore plus it will become much harder to remove the front by myself. I am driver and pit crew in one and I am almost considering not mounting them for practical reasons.
Any feedback on that?
Although personally I'm no great lover of rivnuts, given three fixings per plane into rivnuts into fibre glass (therefore shouldn't be tensioned on the hugely tight 'FT' principle), with a bit of copper grease onto the threads, I would have thought they'd be easily removeable (all four in about five minutes) with the front bodywork still in situ.Any feedback on that?
Judging by their deployment in either one or two each side format (it's actually not that often that one sees an RS running without any in RCC/UK Cup nowadays) at face value they are apparently worth having on a 3 certainly as far as racing is concerned.
If you get on to Google and find a firm who specialises in g/f for boats, they'll do male and/or female threaded fixtures that are designed to be bonded to g/f composites with a big (around 30mm) flat head with holes in it.
Being designed for the purpose, they are perfect for the job.
Just Googled it myself and found where I got mine from:
http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/c-924-big-he...
The female versions look like this:
Being designed for the purpose, they are perfect for the job.
Just Googled it myself and found where I got mine from:
http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/c-924-big-he...
The female versions look like this:
Edited by Count Johnny on Tuesday 12th June 18:21
You want some of these: http://www.pro-bolt.com/index.php/workshop-other/r...
These have slight 'give' to avoid cracking your expensive GF body work, should you catch your dive plane on something!!
These have slight 'give' to avoid cracking your expensive GF body work, should you catch your dive plane on something!!
tonto1 said:
You want some of these: http://www.pro-bolt.com/index.php/workshop-other/r...
These have slight 'give' to avoid cracking your expensive GF body work, should you catch your dive plane on something!!
Won't work. The air pressure will bend the dive planes down and either tear out the mounts or tear the bodyworkThese have slight 'give' to avoid cracking your expensive GF body work, should you catch your dive plane on something!!
I've been running dive planes on SR3s for 5 years plus, never had a rivnut tear out or lost a dive plane (apart from a car/obstacle interface situation)
Simon
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