oil pressure problem?????
Discussion
hi all,
just came back home from my first hillclimb in a radical, enjoyed every split second :-). I have a concern, my car doesn't have a dry sump (btw it is a 1300 suzuki) and on the final run of the day, run 4, I got an oil pressure warning on the final coerner of the race which is quite inclined and steep gradient. It was also giving me a zero reading when idle, then once throttle is pressed it goes out. My mechanic suggested that we thicken the oil a bit as he thinks the engine might be at a critical stage in it's life, so before we open it up he is going to check with thicker oil first.
Any ideas, inputs, experiances would be appreciated a lot.
Thanks to all
just came back home from my first hillclimb in a radical, enjoyed every split second :-). I have a concern, my car doesn't have a dry sump (btw it is a 1300 suzuki) and on the final run of the day, run 4, I got an oil pressure warning on the final coerner of the race which is quite inclined and steep gradient. It was also giving me a zero reading when idle, then once throttle is pressed it goes out. My mechanic suggested that we thicken the oil a bit as he thinks the engine might be at a critical stage in it's life, so before we open it up he is going to check with thicker oil first.
Any ideas, inputs, experiances would be appreciated a lot.
Thanks to all
Don't panic - well, not yet!:
I've seen oil pressure showing zero @ idle after a hard run on a day with something like 20 plus degC on an engine (previous ones of mine and many others) that is actually perfectly healthy (such as compressions). Setting the idle speed a little bit higher could well help.
The important thing is how quickly and how much it builds under revs; ideally you should be seeing circa 60psi @ 4K (first light illuminated on the old style dash) when fully upto temp; if it shows less than 50, you shouldn't continue to use it as it is probably refresh time (likely/hopefully rings).
I may just be right old fashioned, but I don't subscribe to the theory of trying to use (on anything and certainly not a bike-engine that usually gives of its best @ a circa relatively heady 9.5K) a thicker oil to compensate - if (as I believe) your climate is generally hotter than here in the UK and as you're obviously using it in relatively short 'bursts', I'd certainly consider having a word with RPE to see if they would recommend a different oil viscosity spec, but I definitely wouldn't change it without asking - one has to remember that the likes of Ted & James there have probably forgotten more about their engines than the vast majority of us can ever hope to know!
I've seen oil pressure showing zero @ idle after a hard run on a day with something like 20 plus degC on an engine (previous ones of mine and many others) that is actually perfectly healthy (such as compressions). Setting the idle speed a little bit higher could well help.
The important thing is how quickly and how much it builds under revs; ideally you should be seeing circa 60psi @ 4K (first light illuminated on the old style dash) when fully upto temp; if it shows less than 50, you shouldn't continue to use it as it is probably refresh time (likely/hopefully rings).
I may just be right old fashioned, but I don't subscribe to the theory of trying to use (on anything and certainly not a bike-engine that usually gives of its best @ a circa relatively heady 9.5K) a thicker oil to compensate - if (as I believe) your climate is generally hotter than here in the UK and as you're obviously using it in relatively short 'bursts', I'd certainly consider having a word with RPE to see if they would recommend a different oil viscosity spec, but I definitely wouldn't change it without asking - one has to remember that the likes of Ted & James there have probably forgotten more about their engines than the vast majority of us can ever hope to know!
Edited by splitpin on Sunday 18th March 18:19
If your car is running one of the original Radical dashboards then I would not worry about the low reading at idle with high oil temps, as long as this increases as soon as the revs are picked up.
I would worry about the oil light coming on during the run, considering your description of the corner and the fact the engine is still wet sump, I would say that it was oil surge.
I would look at checking your oil level and running a little more oil to try and combat this before even thinking about thicker oil. Thicker oil is not the best idea as with low temps it may struggle to make its way through all the little jets and drilling's within the motor.
I would worry about the oil light coming on during the run, considering your description of the corner and the fact the engine is still wet sump, I would say that it was oil surge.
I would look at checking your oil level and running a little more oil to try and combat this before even thinking about thicker oil. Thicker oil is not the best idea as with low temps it may struggle to make its way through all the little jets and drilling's within the motor.
thanks for your replies guys, I have a Farringdon steering, so all the indications are on it.
This is my onboard of today, to give you an idea of the bend
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J83Zie3WPPQ
This is my onboard of today, to give you an idea of the bend
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J83Zie3WPPQ
The quote from the original owners manual is:
'The oil level should be no lower than three quarters up the sight-glass, with the motor warm and running. The sump is baffled and the oil takes some time to settle. Only use Radical recommended oil, i.e. Silkolene Pro 4 synthetic based racing oil which is formulated to run in the integral gearbox and clutch as well as the engine (see running in). Use only high temperature racing brake fluid.'
I would work or adding a little at a time until it pushes some oil into the catch tank, at the point the motor is happy and finds its own level.
Always better to have a little to much in there than not enough :-)
'The oil level should be no lower than three quarters up the sight-glass, with the motor warm and running. The sump is baffled and the oil takes some time to settle. Only use Radical recommended oil, i.e. Silkolene Pro 4 synthetic based racing oil which is formulated to run in the integral gearbox and clutch as well as the engine (see running in). Use only high temperature racing brake fluid.'
I would work or adding a little at a time until it pushes some oil into the catch tank, at the point the motor is happy and finds its own level.
Always better to have a little to much in there than not enough :-)
MK3 Dan said:
The quote from the original owners manual is:
'The oil level should be no lower than three quarters up the sight-glass, with the motor warm and running.
Yes, the important part is to check the level with the engine running, if you fill the level then start it you should see the level drop dramatically. Checking with it running should provide the necessary "over filling" required to combat any surge.'The oil level should be no lower than three quarters up the sight-glass, with the motor warm and running.
Edited by SportsLibre on Sunday 18th March 22:58
scooby151 said:
thanks for your replies guys, I have a Farringdon steering, so all the indications are on it.
This is my onboard of today, to give you an idea of the bend
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J83Zie3WPPQ
If you've got the Farringdon wheel do you also have their data logging? Not sure what car you have but on my SR4 there was a black data logging box bolted on the chassis close to the steering rack. If you have the logging then easy for you to check your pressure all the way through your run - download by removing the steering wheel connection and plugging in the download lead in it's place.This is my onboard of today, to give you an idea of the bend
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J83Zie3WPPQ
Farringdon just produced another batch (I know because I bought one), so perhaps get in contact with andrew.schryver@farringdoninstruments.com and he should be able to help. I paid 68GBP for mine, sans software. The software is available here: http://home.btconnect.com/polylogic/
I had a few issues getting mine hooked up as it wouldn;t recognise the port, but Andrew helped sort it out.
I had a few issues getting mine hooked up as it wouldn;t recognise the port, but Andrew helped sort it out.
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