How much oil in 1500?
Discussion
been engaging in a bit of DIY over the winter, now that's a scary thought. Was trying to measure how much oil came out, but as most of it went over me, it was a bit hard!
It looks to me like it needs between 5-6 litres to go back in. is that about right? That's with the dry sump tank emptied and the sump off (don't ask!). And yes I am planning on putting the sump back on before putting the oil in!
Cheers
Bert
It looks to me like it needs between 5-6 litres to go back in. is that about right? That's with the dry sump tank emptied and the sump off (don't ask!). And yes I am planning on putting the sump back on before putting the oil in!
Cheers
Bert
I would start with 5 litres (maybe a tad less) and do a very gentle first stage warm up as per The Bible; having & utilising the proper dipstick compulsory, ideally with a competent helper to do the dipping.
And don't start or restart the engine without the filler cap firmly screwed on the dry sump tank! Only an idiot would ever do that (in other words, I did once ............ never again, if only for the well-being of DD's paper towel supplies!)
Yep, I was going to do the initial fill 4-5l and crank with the plugs out to get pressure. Then top up before starting. And I learned about not taking the top off with the engine running with my first dry sumped car!
Trouble is, I don't think that 30 hours of running is enough to get the oil warm enough to get the level right. So I'll have to have a refresh, then it'll take another 30 hours to get warm to check the oil...
Trouble is, I don't think that 30 hours of running is enough to get the oil warm enough to get the level right. So I'll have to have a refresh, then it'll take another 30 hours to get warm to check the oil...
BertBert said:
Yep, I was going to do the initial fill 4-5l and crank with the plugs out to get pressure. Then top up before starting. And I learned about not taking the top off with the engine running with my first dry sumped car!
Trouble is, I don't think that 30 hours of running is enough to get the oil warm enough to get the level right. So I'll have to have a refresh, then it'll take another 30 hours to get warm to check the oil...
On the former, disconnect the coils before doing so!Trouble is, I don't think that 30 hours of running is enough to get the oil warm enough to get the level right. So I'll have to have a refresh, then it'll take another 30 hours to get warm to check the oil...
On the latter, The Bible's procedure in combo with gaffer tape on the oil rad and a blanket wrapped around the engine post stop (watch it and your hands on the exhaust) should get you upto 50degC without too much difficulty.
YES,I always did the measuring what got drained method,and yes it does eat into the running time to check levels properly "to the book",but being oil you can definitely see what they mean by its a "VISCOUS" circle.....
..6/6.5 litres depending on age/spec of tanks coolers etc[Did you drop the cooler lines etc?,hard to keep clean though granted}
..6/6.5 litres depending on age/spec of tanks coolers etc[Did you drop the cooler lines etc?,hard to keep clean though granted}Having just finished an engine install today i can still remember this one.
+ 5L in oil tank
Crank over, ignition off and coil disconnected to circulate oil and check pressure is reading.
Check level and bring up to between top and middle mark on the SR3 dipstick.
Reconnect coil and run engine to circulate and warm oil.
Recheck and adjust to mark.
+ 5L in oil tank
Crank over, ignition off and coil disconnected to circulate oil and check pressure is reading.
Check level and bring up to between top and middle mark on the SR3 dipstick.
Reconnect coil and run engine to circulate and warm oil.
Recheck and adjust to mark.
Interesting one. I switched from silkolene to the castrol equivalent and found a lower hot oil temp and better hot oil pressure at tickover. That was with the Clubsport. I'm considering doing the same in the SR3. Any thoughts?
Also, what is the official warm up procedure and is there a recognised warm down procedure?
Also, what is the official warm up procedure and is there a recognised warm down procedure?
9. Warming Up
a. The engine should be started 45 minutes prior to going on track. Turn the engine off when the coolant temperature reaches 85°C and allow heat to soak into the engine. Restart 5 minutes before going on track and get the coolant temperature back up to 75°C. . Please refer to the RPE GSX-R Engine Operation Manual, our specific operating manual, for engine running temperatures.
b. The oil level should be checked every hour of running and topped up to the level indicated above when necessary.
c. By the way the procedure outlined in a. will get the oil nowhere near the operating temperature required for the minimum described in paragraph 10.
d. So in reality run the engine loads and loads before going out in the vain hope of achieving 60 degrees when the lights go out
a. The engine should be started 45 minutes prior to going on track. Turn the engine off when the coolant temperature reaches 85°C and allow heat to soak into the engine. Restart 5 minutes before going on track and get the coolant temperature back up to 75°C. . Please refer to the RPE GSX-R Engine Operation Manual, our specific operating manual, for engine running temperatures.
b. The oil level should be checked every hour of running and topped up to the level indicated above when necessary.
c. By the way the procedure outlined in a. will get the oil nowhere near the operating temperature required for the minimum described in paragraph 10.
d. So in reality run the engine loads and loads before going out in the vain hope of achieving 60 degrees when the lights go out
15. Oil temperature control. At RPE we really couldn't be bothered to engineer a sensible solution for this and just bunged it a whopping great oil-cooler to be safe. We experimented with the laws of natural selection and crowd-sourcing for an answer. We are pleased to report that this social experiment has been rather successful and has resulted in the now legendary "gaffa-tape" rules for oil temperature control.
You will notice that the air inlet to the oil cooler is conveniently 3 gaffa-tape widths wide (in "portrait" view). Under no circumstances in the UK will you need less than one strip or "gaffa" as we prefer to call it. Often times 2 gaffas is exactly the right amount. If the race season starts unseasonably early in the season of winter (like a wintery 10th March in Snetterton), then 2 and a half gaffas will be called for. In exceptional circumstances (such as if you have followed our warming up advice in para 9), you may feel the need to run the full-bifta...3 gaffas. However this comes with a stern health warning. If you run 3 gaffas, you have a severe risk of over-heating your oil up to 62 or even 63 degrees. It's also well known (well to us, but we'd rather it was a secret) that if the oil temp gets over 63 degress, the engine oil pressure will drop dramatically and activate the oil pressure cutout switch.
We recommend that teams and drivers become conversant with the "rules of gaffa" and focus their testing time accordingly.
You will notice that the air inlet to the oil cooler is conveniently 3 gaffa-tape widths wide (in "portrait" view). Under no circumstances in the UK will you need less than one strip or "gaffa" as we prefer to call it. Often times 2 gaffas is exactly the right amount. If the race season starts unseasonably early in the season of winter (like a wintery 10th March in Snetterton), then 2 and a half gaffas will be called for. In exceptional circumstances (such as if you have followed our warming up advice in para 9), you may feel the need to run the full-bifta...3 gaffas. However this comes with a stern health warning. If you run 3 gaffas, you have a severe risk of over-heating your oil up to 62 or even 63 degrees. It's also well known (well to us, but we'd rather it was a secret) that if the oil temp gets over 63 degress, the engine oil pressure will drop dramatically and activate the oil pressure cutout switch.
We recommend that teams and drivers become conversant with the "rules of gaffa" and focus their testing time accordingly.
I'd better join in the spirit of this ........... next time I get approached by someone rattling a worthy charity tin, I'd better just kick him/her in the ankle and run!
Hairdryer and shaped piece of card required for Snett BertBert.
(And let's hope you don't need RPE's help when you're there
)
Hairdryer and shaped piece of card required for Snett BertBert.
(And let's hope you don't need RPE's help when you're there
)BertBert said:
9. Warming Up
d. So in reality run the engine loads and loads before going out in the vain hope of achieving 60 degrees when the lights go out
I never ran an oil cooler on Betty (short runs etc) but for the first couple of months still had trouble getting the oil hot until the engine was under load and then the temp went vertical. We fitted a small Mocal heat exchanger and warmed up the engine with the electric fan running and found that during warm up on a normal warm but not hot English Sunday the temps went up in step with the water 20 deg hotter than the oil which is just what Powerted ordered. We run the same set up successfully on the Force but now with fan and pump controlled by the Life.d. So in reality run the engine loads and loads before going out in the vain hope of achieving 60 degrees when the lights go out
Interestingly, this is the arrrangement that Big R now use on SR8s (2 water rads, gearbox rad and a HUGE mocal oil/water heat exchanger).
But, as JW von Goethe said, "Every great idea has already been thought, suffice to think it again". Except of course he said it in German......................
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