Seat removal SR3 2006?

[BioBa]

How do you get the seat over the gear lever. The gear lever hole in the seat is too small and I can't see that the gear lever "handle" (thicker end part) comes off. Do I really have to remove the entire gear lever first to get the seat out?
Thanks for some advise.

[splitpin]

From memory (with the RS that is), the seat slot for the gear lever has a bigger more circular shaped termination at one end (again from memory, at the rear facing end) that is sufficient to enable the seat to pass over the gear lever complete with it's gear knob; to facilitate this (gear lever being in an appropriate location as you fiddle out the seat), you'll need to detach the gear lever shaft to allow the gear lever to 'flop free' if you get my drift; you can do that by detaching it from the transfer shaft (the one that allows you to set a push forward or pull back upshift as the Customer prefers) behind the firewall between the firewall and the engine.

In terms of actually getting the seat out, you'll find two pairs of hands are a lot easier.

HTH

Edited by splitpin on Saturday 19th November 00:52

[BioBa]

So it looks like you are confirming that the gear lever needs to be disconected (behind the fire wall) to be in a in a position to slip the seat over the thicker handle part.

[splitpin]

BioBa said:

So it looks like you are confirming that the gear lever needs to be disconected (behind the fire wall) to be in a in a position to slip the seat over the thicker handle part.

To be honest, the old memory is getting a bit dim, but that's the way I remember it.

But then again, on the RS I never had to fully remove the seat, just to get the back pivoted far enough forward to get access to a jubilee clip on a fuel tank line which had let go. I did however fully remove the seat on a 4 which is effectively the same, just 3/4 the size. I certainly disconnected the linkage on that behind the firewall in that instance as it made it a whole lot easier as I was doing it solo.

If as I recommended you get a mate to help, why not suss it out in situ to see whether you can do it by careful jockeying without disconnecting? BTW, disconnecting the linkage behind the firewall was no particular issue on the 4 (ass up, relevant rear wheel off - LH from memory -, undertray in situ, just one bolt to release) and can't think why the 3 would be anymore difficult - just the usual need for double joints in one's limbs, foot long fingers, skinned knuckles, banged head, plenty expletives - but that's standard fare with every job on a Radical isn't it?

[BioBa]

splitpin said:

just the usual need for double joints in one's limbs, foot long fingers, skinned knuckles, banged head, plenty expletives - but that's standard fare with every job on a Radical isn't it?

You mean to say: with every job on any British car!LOL

[ric355]

The gear knob must surely come off. The lever and the knob are listed as separate parts in the online store.

[splitpin]

BioBa said:

splitpin said:

just the usual need for double joints in one's limbs, foot long fingers, skinned knuckles, banged head, plenty expletives - but that's standard fare with every job on a Radical isn't it?

You mean to say: with every job on any British car!LOL

Indeed, but a Radical seems to have a very special talent in that regard.

Now if I had got a £ for everytime I settled down to do something only to mutter "Oh Borrocks, to do that first I'm going to have to do that, then that ............"

Judging by my experience, Fairy (too tight to be laying out for that fragrant Swarfega stuff) & Radox should both be paying some sort of royalty to The Big R

[splitpin]

ric355 said:

The gear knob must surely come off. The lever and the knob are listed as separate parts in the online store.

For sure it does, but the slightly reduced length and girth doesn't make that much difference.

So she tells me

[BioBa]

Thanks for pointing out that the handle part is sold as a seperate item. I still can't see how it comes off. I tried to unscrew it but did not manage. Can't see a threat on the shaft on the picture provided by Radical spares. It could not be glued on??

[bloberoo]

Hello,I replaced the belts on my friends "3" and remember just undoing all the bolts/allens/nut and bolts then lifted front of the seat up rested it on blocks of wood and then just took the cross- pivot nut and bolt out[directly under stick] and just swung the linkage at an angle to allow it all to slide out of the larger gap in the seat,and lo and behold the pivot and bushes needed cleaning up and greasing as a routine matter anyway!,gave the seat a good clean while all those annoying webby things were out of the way !

[double d racing]

I believe the gear know is glued on...( in fact I'm fairly certain )....apply some heat ( heat gun ) to the base of the gear knob and up its length
( sounds like a carry on Film ) and then a pair of mole grips on the shaft and similar on the knob and brute force and ignorance....seriously...... the heat will do the job.
Stating the obvious do you need to take out the seat. It can be tilted forward a massive amount without removing the gear knob...
another captain sensible comment is also to ensure the pin is in the extinguisher ( if its by the seat )....with all this boggering about its easy to set it off !
D D

[splitpin]

double d racing said:

I believe the gear know is glued on...( in fact I'm fairly certain )....apply some heat ( heat gun ) to the base of the gear knob and up its length
( sounds like a carry on Film ) and then a pair of mole grips on the shaft and similar on the knob and brute force and ignorance....seriously...... the heat will do the job.

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[XG332]

All you need to do is undo the pivot bolt form the stick. Then it just flops about.

[BioBa]

XG332 said:

All you need to do is undo the pivot bolt form the stick. Then it just flops about.

I think with all said this is the correct answer.