How to do an Oil change in the SR3?
Discussion
You,ve got three options:-
a. Drop the diffuser and remove the sump drain plug on the RHS of the Sump near the oil pipe from the tank
b. Drop the diffuser and remove the pipe from the sump to the oil tank
c. Use a pump to take it ut via the tank filler hole
Whilst you are at it, you should change the filter
Hope this helps
Simon
WWW.tillingmotorsport.com
a. Drop the diffuser and remove the sump drain plug on the RHS of the Sump near the oil pipe from the tank
b. Drop the diffuser and remove the pipe from the sump to the oil tank
c. Use a pump to take it ut via the tank filler hole
Whilst you are at it, you should change the filter
Hope this helps
Simon
WWW.tillingmotorsport.com
BioBa said:
Taking the diffuser out would mean drilling out all the rivets? That seems crazy for doing a simple oil change! I think I will use a pump. Filter is is already organized. Thanks for letting me know.
Taking the rear diffuser/undertray off a Rad shouldn't involve (taking out) any rivets (perhaps someone has made some so called 'improvements'? >Detail varies according to which model and when made (for example, the Prosport has a bolt each side to pinch the undertray to the side pod just in front of the rear wheels), but basically they are all the same principle >
1) Front edge just 'loose' sits/ledges on top of an ally strip which is rivetted (wonder if that's what you're seeing?) to the underside of the firewall/cabin to engine compartment bulkhead frame.
2) Rear edge fixes via the diffuser bracket to the bottom of the rear subframe using two bolts, one each side.
3) The middle of the undertray is then supported 'roughly midway' between the front ledge support line and the rear bolt up bracket line; usually by nylon tying an inverted U channel bracket (which is rivetted to the undertray) to the underside of the space frame near enough below (in line with) the engine's gearbox itself - some models have a bolt-up rivetted bracket.
Other than my preference for using penny washers and little bolts rather than rivets to fix the rear carrier bracket onto the undertray, as one would expect, what Radical designed and provided works just fine and for obvious reasons avoids the ridiculous requirement to start drilling out rivets.
On the oil change, being an old fashioned sort of chap, I don't do Option C. On a Dry sump, as long as it's got a dry sump tank plug (not all do apparently, I do Option B, quickly followed by Option A, engine two cycle warmed - warm to WT 85, kill and leave say 20/30mins for heat soak to work it's magic, then warm again to upto say WT 98 - by which time the oil temp will usually be upto circa 50degC. I.e. Kill warm engine, as quick as poss (before it drains back down), drain dry sump tank using it's bottom level plug (providing there is one), quickly followed by engine sump plug and filter itself.
BTW (before it pops up as it may)I don't start draining down to and from oil rad pipelines by unbolting those lovely anodised connectors (but they do need to be spanner checked for 'tightness') - I always think it's one of those things you could do and have a catastrophe - OMG, seemed like a good idea at the time. Nah, as I see it, unless you're a Pro with every tool / hoist/ pit available, just not worth it ...... for the DIYer, marginal/debatable gain that could become a huge pain.
Car is on the trailer for a race day on Wednesday so I can't see very much but I understand now how the rear difuser is attached. I can see also the two bolts attching the rear diffuser bracket to the rear sub frame.
Next weekend I will lift the car high enough to have a really good look under the car (I find it a real pain to lift the car high enough to get underneath it). I will follow your instructions.
Thanks also for the two cycle warm up method to get the maximum amount of oil out. Will give you an update once it is all done.
(I'm also quite old fashioned when it come to oil changes but it sure looks inviting to use an vacuum pump in the Radical case. I will check with Radical what they think about the vacuum method). Thanks again and G'day from Down Under.
Next weekend I will lift the car high enough to have a really good look under the car (I find it a real pain to lift the car high enough to get underneath it). I will follow your instructions.
Thanks also for the two cycle warm up method to get the maximum amount of oil out. Will give you an update once it is all done.
(I'm also quite old fashioned when it come to oil changes but it sure looks inviting to use an vacuum pump in the Radical case. I will check with Radical what they think about the vacuum method). Thanks again and G'day from Down Under.
BioBa said:
I find it a real pain to lift the car high enough to get underneath it
For those of us without a hoist or pit, never a truer word spoken.Suggestions >
1. Rear diffuser off.
2. Use the quicklift on the front to be able to put some pavers underneath local to the front tyres - don't forget to use wheel chocks to stop the beggar rolling off. This will give you considerably more clearance under the front splitter to seriously raise/angle up the back.
3. Raise the back using either a low entry trolley jack or QL and paver the back wheels to get a bottle jack under. Lift it as far as you need, then axle stand to be able to remove same - for safety's sake, don't go underneath the car from the side and rely on the TJ/BJ.
4. By all means, let it drain out on the angle, but put it back on the jack and let it drain on the level as a final.
An even better way if you've got strong ramps and firm ground (and you need to be 100% sure of that) with the car facing forwards on the trailer is to put the ramps in position and then raise the normally sitting on the ground ramps end with say two axle stands either side to act as a continuation of the trailer deck, then wheel the car partly onto the ramps, far enough off to be able to get to the underside of the engine. If you use this method, take every conceivable safety precaution. If in doubt, don't even think about it.
splitpin said:
An even better way if you've got strong ramps and firm ground (and you need to be 100% sure of that) with the car facing forwards on the trailer is to put the ramps in position and then raise the normally sitting on the ground ramps end with say two axle stands either side to act as a continuation of the trailer deck, then wheel the car partly onto the ramps, far enough off to be able to get to the underside of the engine. If you use this method, take every conceivable safety precaution. If in doubt, don't even think about it.
Brilliant idea! I have really strong double width extra long aluminium ramps to get the car onto the trailer in the first place.Plus I have a steep angle on my drive way alleviating the problem of having to raise the ramps level with the trailer. Once the trailer and car are secured this should make the job much easier. Problem solved and now I am looking forward to the oil change instead of dreading it.
Gassing Station | Radical | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff