clubsport engine needed
Discussion
Busa time. 
sorry to hear of the engine's demise tho.
As for replacements bike engines, i hear Yorkshire engines are a good shout. http://www.yorkshireengines.co.uk/website/Home.htm...
sorry to hear of the engine's demise tho. As for replacements bike engines, i hear Yorkshire engines are a good shout. http://www.yorkshireengines.co.uk/website/Home.htm...
Edited by S26VE P on Monday 15th August 10:40
Thanks for the link 
Yes it's a dry sump, can a std zzr1100 engine be bolted straight in - I'd be happy to go with this and get racing again while I got my other one rebuilt. I've not rebuilt an engine before so don't fancy starting with one of these.
The compression is 140, 100, 100, zero (psi) now but the engine still turns. Not too sure what this means in terms of damage I suspect you need to open it up and take a look to find out properly.
I looked into a 'busa transplant and it seemed too expensive to justify over buying a prosport or similar.
Cheers,
Dunc.
Yes it's a dry sump, can a std zzr1100 engine be bolted straight in - I'd be happy to go with this and get racing again while I got my other one rebuilt. I've not rebuilt an engine before so don't fancy starting with one of these.
The compression is 140, 100, 100, zero (psi) now but the engine still turns. Not too sure what this means in terms of damage I suspect you need to open it up and take a look to find out properly.
I looked into a 'busa transplant and it seemed too expensive to justify over buying a prosport or similar.
Cheers,
Dunc.
Well if nothing is poking out where it shouldn't then that's good!
I have built a few of these and they are relatively simple.
It sounds like pistons/rings so first thing is to whip the head off, cam cover off, chain tensioner off, remove chain rub pad on top (3 cap head screws), undo cam caps and remove cams. Then slacken head bolts (I can let you have the torque pattern if you need it), undo the external 6mm upside down bolt cam chain end, oh yeh undo the oil feed pipe on end of head. The head should lift off reasonably easily so if it doesn't, the external bolt is likely to still be in place (been there, done that). Then you should be able to see what the head/pistons are like.
Let me know if you need any more info?
PS, there are a few mods you need to do to run the dry sump pan on a standard engine but I can let you know what they are no problem.
I have built a few of these and they are relatively simple.
It sounds like pistons/rings so first thing is to whip the head off, cam cover off, chain tensioner off, remove chain rub pad on top (3 cap head screws), undo cam caps and remove cams. Then slacken head bolts (I can let you have the torque pattern if you need it), undo the external 6mm upside down bolt cam chain end, oh yeh undo the oil feed pipe on end of head. The head should lift off reasonably easily so if it doesn't, the external bolt is likely to still be in place (been there, done that). Then you should be able to see what the head/pistons are like.
Let me know if you need any more info?
PS, there are a few mods you need to do to run the dry sump pan on a standard engine but I can let you know what they are no problem.
What is the state of the chamber and valves in the head?
The block will most likely need a rebore, if it is a powertec engine it will probably be standard size. There are a couple of overbores available which can take it to 1095 or 1109cc. They are generally higher compression pistons and will need a proper dry build to check for adequate piston/valve clearance.
If you undo the con rod bolts you will need to get some new ones as they are stretch bolts (if standard conrods fitted).
If you get the block rebored, make sure the chamfer on the base of each cylinder is adequate as this helps the rings go in the bores when the barrels are fitted onto the pistons.
I expect the whole engine will need a strip down to get rid of any debris from the piston.
The block will most likely need a rebore, if it is a powertec engine it will probably be standard size. There are a couple of overbores available which can take it to 1095 or 1109cc. They are generally higher compression pistons and will need a proper dry build to check for adequate piston/valve clearance.
If you undo the con rod bolts you will need to get some new ones as they are stretch bolts (if standard conrods fitted).
If you get the block rebored, make sure the chamfer on the base of each cylinder is adequate as this helps the rings go in the bores when the barrels are fitted onto the pistons.
I expect the whole engine will need a strip down to get rid of any debris from the piston.
Hi Martin, thanks for the information, here's the pic I was sent:-
I also sent it on to powertec and they said they hadn't seen a hole in this position before, they are going to take a look and quote on what work it needs. That'll help me make an informed decision of what to do.
Still open to any engines or suggestions keep them coming
Dunc.
I also sent it on to powertec and they said they hadn't seen a hole in this position before, they are going to take a look and quote on what work it needs. That'll help me make an informed decision of what to do.
Still open to any engines or suggestions keep them coming
Dunc.
That looks pretty much exactly what happened to my powertec engine,mine happened on no.3 cylinder. When I stripped it I also found that the centre main bearing was starting to break up because they didn't match the oil supply hole to the bearing. It is a fault with the Kawasaki engines but is a 30 second job with the engine in bits to sort it!
I didn't bother to talk to them about it but from the engines I have seen most are like it!
I didn't bother to talk to them about it but from the engines I have seen most are like it!
Edited by Martin B on Monday 15th August 19:07
As the powertec engines are fitted with standard cast pistons I initially thought it might have been caused by fatigue creating the crack and then blowing through once it had formed. I then had it rebored to 1095 with forged pistons and did it again very quickly on the same cylinder so I now think it was the carb playing up going lean causing detonation when flat out. The second one was a real mess.
Generally I think the standard pistons and rods are the weak link in these engines but probably are in all bike engines.
I have since gone to fuel injection for other reasons but I think mine was initially caused by a carb fault.
The cheapest way to sort this will probably be to get another complete engine and put the dry sump stuff on it but some dismantling of the head and cases is required to do the mods.
With gaskets and forged pistons you will probably be getting near £1k if you build it yourself, if you need bearings they will be over £200 set etc.
Generally I think the standard pistons and rods are the weak link in these engines but probably are in all bike engines.
I have since gone to fuel injection for other reasons but I think mine was initially caused by a carb fault.
The cheapest way to sort this will probably be to get another complete engine and put the dry sump stuff on it but some dismantling of the head and cases is required to do the mods.
With gaskets and forged pistons you will probably be getting near £1k if you build it yourself, if you need bearings they will be over £200 set etc.
I am absolutely 100% definate about this, the bearing is located by a tag and cannot move, this is a definate fault with the engines. Yes bearings can 'pick up' and spin but that is a catastrophic failure and this is not that. This is pure misaligned holes in the casting and no rectification of the issue during the engine build!
I will try and upload a photo later, it doesn't seem to want to upload at the moment.
I know I am blaspheming against the gods of Peterborough here so I don't expext anyone to believe me, that's your choice, but I know what I found.
I will try and upload a photo later, it doesn't seem to want to upload at the moment.
I know I am blaspheming against the gods of Peterborough here so I don't expext anyone to believe me, that's your choice, but I know what I found.
Edited by Martin B on Tuesday 16th August 08:08
Edited by Martin B on Tuesday 16th August 08:17
We're the friendly forum here! I think you'll find as many critical of Peterburg here as supporters!BertBert said:
The reason I asked was that it looks in the pic that the lhs of the bearing is proud of the case and the rhs below the case!
Bertie
See what you mean, but finding it difficult to see that that 'displacement' equates to the difference between the hole in the cradle and the shell.Bertie
I recollect journals 2 & 4 have a shell with a central oil grove, so presumably this is journal 1, 3 or 5?
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