engine overhaul
Discussion
Hello
As for engine overhauls, it is advisable to do so every 30 hours. I notice that even for the heating season, the time ahead anyway, though the engine is not much use or become damaged during this time the. I think this represents 30% of the time because I made a 15-minute sessions of leisure. I was told that for the revisions, the hours are as indicated on the ecu, how do you see?
How dangerous is it to go further, trackdays leisure?
thank you
As for engine overhauls, it is advisable to do so every 30 hours. I notice that even for the heating season, the time ahead anyway, though the engine is not much use or become damaged during this time the. I think this represents 30% of the time because I made a 15-minute sessions of leisure. I was told that for the revisions, the hours are as indicated on the ecu, how do you see?
How dangerous is it to go further, trackdays leisure?
thank you
RPE's advice is that the 1500 should be refreshed every 30 hours if it is used for racing, but can (happily) do more if being used in less arduous activities (such as track days).
To take any advantage of the RPE warranty, the engine needs to be done at 30 hours running.
Otherwise if you monitor the engine's health via oil pressure, compression and leakdown tests, you should be able to see it degrading.
Bert
To take any advantage of the RPE warranty, the engine needs to be done at 30 hours running.
Otherwise if you monitor the engine's health via oil pressure, compression and leakdown tests, you should be able to see it degrading.
Bert
BertBert said:
To take any advantage of the RPE warranty, the engine needs to be done at 30 hours running.
I thought the proportionate contribution (you know the one that makes people constantly fret and as I see it - rather than just saying, nice to have something rather then nothing - reduces one's enjoyment/exploitation of the many abilities of one's Rad 
) became nothing @ 30 hours with a 1500, so how's there anything to be taken advantage of?Maybe (hopefully) I simply don't understand the utter wonderfullness of these warranties?
PS I reckon our highly maintained 1299 SR4 had done near enough 100 trackday hours and was still in rude health; good enough to 'fly the flag' unrefreshed in Eastern Europe and all over the show.
Edited by splitpin on Friday 22 July 16:36
Aside from the fact I didn't know whether or not Pascal knows it's a 'descending' warranty, I was sort of thinking out loud ............
The warranty is good (and pretty well unique for a race car/race engine), but I do think people get overly fixated/worry about it too much, especially when one factors in that the warranty relates to running time rather than 'on it' track time. As you know, in actual completed Event time, the warranty therefore gets swallowed up in no time at all.
Even relatively new cars are likely to have beggar all time left; maybe a 1/3rd contribution (of what figure) if something goes pop - useful but hardly earth-shattering in the overall scheme of costs? The comfort is really knowing that if there's something fundamentally duff that's going to expose itself earlier rather than later (as is usually the case), that a decent part/proportion of the bill won't be down to you.
In a way, if an engine is sound at 20 - 30 hours running, it's sort of good to get the warranty 'run out'/out of the way - it's shown itself generally to be a good 'un, so catastrophic engine failure aside, Pascal just watch the oil pressure, compression check it regularly, use your ears and eyes and enjoy (the same again and hopefully a bit more).
As I see it, the recommendation of 30 hours is simply related to the warranty and at best is seen as some sort of pretty indistinct indicator for a racing Rad. If optimum race performance (at any cost) is what matters, I'd guess that a pretty thorough stripdown/replace as necessary would be done @ 10- say 15 hours latest running time. Wonder what the Works Team's cars adopt?
The warranty is good (and pretty well unique for a race car/race engine), but I do think people get overly fixated/worry about it too much, especially when one factors in that the warranty relates to running time rather than 'on it' track time. As you know, in actual completed Event time, the warranty therefore gets swallowed up in no time at all.
Even relatively new cars are likely to have beggar all time left; maybe a 1/3rd contribution (of what figure) if something goes pop - useful but hardly earth-shattering in the overall scheme of costs? The comfort is really knowing that if there's something fundamentally duff that's going to expose itself earlier rather than later (as is usually the case), that a decent part/proportion of the bill won't be down to you.
In a way, if an engine is sound at 20 - 30 hours running, it's sort of good to get the warranty 'run out'/out of the way - it's shown itself generally to be a good 'un, so catastrophic engine failure aside, Pascal just watch the oil pressure, compression check it regularly, use your ears and eyes and enjoy (the same again and hopefully a bit more).
As I see it, the recommendation of 30 hours is simply related to the warranty and at best is seen as some sort of pretty indistinct indicator for a racing Rad. If optimum race performance (at any cost) is what matters, I'd guess that a pretty thorough stripdown/replace as necessary would be done @ 10- say 15 hours latest running time. Wonder what the Works Team's cars adopt?
I've asked that very question of some of the RPE chaps in the paddock. Does the 30 hours just mark the end of the warranty contribution or is it actually the point at which a refresh is recommended?
The answer is that it is the recommended refresh point.
I've found to easier just to change cars when the ashtray is full!
Bert
The answer is that it is the recommended refresh point.
I've found to easier just to change cars when the ashtray is full!
Bert
After several years of rebuilds, I have a few thoughts.
I generally will rebuild after about 35 hours. This allows me to factor in warm up time. We don't get warranties on our engines in the US anymore, so I don't really care about that. Even if you get a warranty, it will be prorated to nothing at 30 hours - so just keep that in mind.
I had one of the first RS cars in the US, meaning it had the K8 engine. After a lot of teething pains with cam chain issues, piston issues, etc... I think RPE have finally stabilized the engine. If you don't have all the latest and greatest upgrades - DO NOT push past 30 hours.
Finally, if you do push past 30 hours, it seems like the engines will hang in there, but the transmissions will not. Inevitably some shifting problems will develop because of worn gears, selector drum, or shift forks. So in the end, even if the engine can make it to 40-50 hours, in my experience, the transmission will not.
Good luck.
G
I generally will rebuild after about 35 hours. This allows me to factor in warm up time. We don't get warranties on our engines in the US anymore, so I don't really care about that. Even if you get a warranty, it will be prorated to nothing at 30 hours - so just keep that in mind.
I had one of the first RS cars in the US, meaning it had the K8 engine. After a lot of teething pains with cam chain issues, piston issues, etc... I think RPE have finally stabilized the engine. If you don't have all the latest and greatest upgrades - DO NOT push past 30 hours.
Finally, if you do push past 30 hours, it seems like the engines will hang in there, but the transmissions will not. Inevitably some shifting problems will develop because of worn gears, selector drum, or shift forks. So in the end, even if the engine can make it to 40-50 hours, in my experience, the transmission will not.
Good luck.
G
yep, good thoughts there.
With the previous version of chain tensioner, the techy bulletin said check the chain after every session (so 30 mins ish). What a pain. So very glad to have moved on after that!
My engine was running fine at 30 hours, no sign of running out of puff at all, but I did have gearchange issues. Perhaps the newer pneumatics fully driven from the Life ECU will be easier on the box.
Bert
With the previous version of chain tensioner, the techy bulletin said check the chain after every session (so 30 mins ish). What a pain. So very glad to have moved on after that!
My engine was running fine at 30 hours, no sign of running out of puff at all, but I did have gearchange issues. Perhaps the newer pneumatics fully driven from the Life ECU will be easier on the box.
Bert
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