Mgb gear box oil

[jms700]

hello, first post on the mg page.

just wondering if any one could direct me to the gear box oil inspection point. i think its right behind the centre consul behind the big rubber grommet ? but not certain

on top off that, if mines low ( which i suspect it is) which oil she i refill it wit ( after empting it complety) i hear that question is quite a debate

thanks

[jms700]

its an 81 model. iv heard that later models have a side mounted plug ?

[mgtony]

I just checked mine yesterday, its a nut about half way up the drivers side of the gearbox, a 19mm spanner to undo I believe.

(Just to clarify, it's accessed from underneath the car)

Edited by mgtony on Sunday 3rd April 18:42

[jms700]

great thanks, will have a look tomorro.

[na]

James useful information like that and a lot more, such as full and proper servicing shedules is in the owners Handbook, only £8, well worth the investment, even owners who 've had the cars for a good number of years can learn from it - (Ref:0053) http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...

If you've missed my other usual advice on the other threads I can post it here - if you want it

I've the experience of runnning classic cars as dailies longer than you've been alive, but that just means I'm old too

[Richard Moss]

mgtony said:

I just checked mine yesterday, its a nut about half way up the drivers side of the gearbox, a 19mm spanner to undo I believe.

(Just to clarify, it's accessed from underneath the car)

Edited by mgtony on Sunday 3rd April 18:42

MGB?

All the ones I've ever seen have a dipstick on the right hand side of the transmission tunnel just behind the radio console (between the console and the bulkhead). Once the dipstick has been removed for checking then the oil is fed in the same way yusing a flexible pipe (I use a squirty oil can and a pice of rubbe hose).

The correct oil for an MGB box is, by the way, 20/50 ENGINE oil.

[Mactheknife]

jms700 said:

hello, first post on the mg page.

just wondering if any one could direct me to the gear box oil inspection point. i think its right behind the centre consul behind the big rubber grommet ? but not certain

on top off that, if mines low ( which i suspect it is) which oil she i refill it wit ( after empting it complety) i hear that question is quite a debate

thanks

It could be there or as mgtony pointed out it could be on the side of the gearbox (drivers side). If its under the large grommet you should be able to feel the top of the dipstick quite easily. If not then its the side.
They changed the location sometime between 1969 and 1972, but left the access hole in the body (just to annoy home mechanics years later).
If you have the version with the nut on the side its directly below the grommet.
Oil should be filled until it is level with the hole.
Engine oil is fine 20w/50 etc.
A flexible pipe on a squirty oil can works for the side access version or a funnel and hose for the top access one, either way its a bit of a pain.

Edited by Mactheknife on Monday 4th April 08:54

[na]

mgtony said:

a 19mm spanner to undo I believe.

probably a 3/4" AF (socket)

you should have a load of AF spanners and sockets Tony

[jms700]

great, thanks for all the responces. going to do that tomorro. i will be buying that book soon.

fitting new alternator and wiper motor tomorro as well. my car just passed its mot but theres still lots to do.


had one other question, ( not sure weather to start new thread or not ? )

replaced the old dirty air filters ( standard air box's but fanny filters with wire mesh inside them ) with completly standard filters and now the car has an occasional missfire and a loss of power . any ideas?

thanks again

[na]

James get that owners Handbook ASAP, a full and proper 36,00 mile service would have quite probably prevented or found your misfire

It wont be you new filters, a smallish chance that it could be because you changed from the fanny(?) ones

You need to start a new thread

Luckily with cars of this age it'll only be electric supply or fuel supply to engine

Proper step by step logical diagnostics is required which some on here ,or MG BBS, can take you through

or others will offer a scatter approach, one of which could possibly be the answer to your problem but there'll be a lot more that will not

Never assume that any new part you've put on is correct and working properly always check them when problems arise

PS IF you want I can post my full usual advice,if you've not already seen it, it's an excellent base to start from

Edited by na on Tuesday 5th April 20:17

[jms700]

thanks for the extra information, and yes, i would really appreciate your usual advice if thats not too much of a hassle ?


thank you very much

[na]

Blimey I'd have thought you'd seen it on other threads

Glad to give this advice it cost me many years of experience and many, many (and a few more) thousands of pounds but it's basic stuff really

My advice to new or potential owners -

Buy an owners Handbook as it tells you so much you need to know as to own, drive, service and maintain your car - (Ref;0053) http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...

Always have the battery in good condition and all battery connections and leads clean, secure and protected, same for all electrical wiring and connections

As soon as possible do a full and proper 36,000 miles service only miss out items that you have 100% proof have already been done very recently, including;
g/box and back axle oils
brake and clutch fluids
coolant
dissy cap, rotor arm and leads (buy good quality ones) - http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html
fan belt

Check the age of your tyres if they are 6 years old or more replace ASAP regardless of tread depth, this will improve, the braking, steering, ride, handling and possibly noise, of the car greatly

Use the car regularly - to get used to it, sort out any wrinkles and prevent others, and enjoy it

Every few weeks check your horn and wipers work (no problem if you use the car regularly)

Follow regular checks, servicing and maintenance as per owners Handbook

Drive in all weathers, the heater is more than adequate, if working correctly and all draughts sealed (fresh air vent)

Do not do any cosmetic or improvement work for at least 12 months of regular use, unless you need to replace parts or components, as you may need to use the money elsewhere on the car

Also very useful, you can get suppliers catalogues for free to get you started to see where things go but in my personal opinion they’re not as good paper copy like - (Ref: 0008) http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...

And if you don't know about the "donkey's dick" Search on here

Cheers, enjoy your car

[jms700]

thanks thats great. going to get that stuff done soon as i can.

really appreciate it

[na]

no problem

if you do it and keep on top of the srvicing and maintenace it will be the best tuning you can do for the car, in fact without it you can't progress properly

above applies to Spit as well

you'll be surprised at the difference but soon get used to it and expect it - and 6000/6 months soons rolls round