Newbie MG ZS owner, advice please?
Discussion
Hi, just bought myself an MGZS 120 in trophy blue (best colour!) on an 03 plate. with only 33k miles on the clock she was a bargain, and is just like brand new! Just a couple of things though?
The remote key locking fob doesnt work unless am right next to the car, and even then is dodgy. Presume the batteries? can these be replaced and if so where?
She has got full service history but there is nothing about the cam belt being changed, and i think as a precautuion would like to get this done? how often does it need changing on these cars (1.8litre).
All being well I will be giving it a full service over next few days.
All in all though she is a cracking car, coming from the mx5 fold the handling is very good for a 5dr saloon!
Any advice or recomendations, greatly recieved!
Many thanks, (PS am in the North West area)
The remote key locking fob doesnt work unless am right next to the car, and even then is dodgy. Presume the batteries? can these be replaced and if so where?
She has got full service history but there is nothing about the cam belt being changed, and i think as a precautuion would like to get this done? how often does it need changing on these cars (1.8litre).
All being well I will be giving it a full service over next few days.
All in all though she is a cracking car, coming from the mx5 fold the handling is very good for a 5dr saloon!
Any advice or recomendations, greatly recieved!
Many thanks, (PS am in the North West area)
On the service sheet I have in front of me, it says every 6 years/90k miles; whichever is sooner. I know this to be correct for the V6, but i'd double check that it is the case for the 1.8.
With the fob, if you have to press the button twice then I think that indicates you need a new battery. But it's probably best to change it anyway, that way you know it has been done.
Check the coolant frequently. Don't thrash it until it's warm - the temp' gauge is only water temperature (normally sits just below the halfway mark), so allow several miles after this has settled. Look in the spare wheel well for any water ingress.
With the fob, if you have to press the button twice then I think that indicates you need a new battery. But it's probably best to change it anyway, that way you know it has been done.
Check the coolant frequently. Don't thrash it until it's warm - the temp' gauge is only water temperature (normally sits just below the halfway mark), so allow several miles after this has settled. Look in the spare wheel well for any water ingress.
thanks guys,
Have sorted the key fob out, changed the batteries on both and it is better though the range is pants! Regarding the belt i think best get that changed soon then, may see if i can take a sneaky peak to check the condition of it.
I know about the dreaded head gasket problem on these cars and have been watching the temp gauge like a hawk, but all seems well, will be looking to get that replaced maybe over the summer.
Where is the best place to source parts? or is it just a case of internet searching, everyone so far that has seen her has said great car but you cant get parts anymore. presume this is just pub talk? lol
Thanks for the advice.
Have sorted the key fob out, changed the batteries on both and it is better though the range is pants! Regarding the belt i think best get that changed soon then, may see if i can take a sneaky peak to check the condition of it.
I know about the dreaded head gasket problem on these cars and have been watching the temp gauge like a hawk, but all seems well, will be looking to get that replaced maybe over the summer.
Where is the best place to source parts? or is it just a case of internet searching, everyone so far that has seen her has said great car but you cant get parts anymore. presume this is just pub talk? lol
Thanks for the advice.
The majority of parts are easily available from motor factors etc. The main difficulty is with new body panels, bumpers etc. which are a bit scarce.
Regarding the head gasket, just keep a regular eye on the coolant level, at the very least once a week. Any drop in level should be investigated immediately to save yourself the work/repair bill of a head gasket. They very rarely fail spontaneously, most are caused by overheating due to coolant leaks from e.g. the inlet manifold gasket, water pump, leaking thermostat housing etc. Catch these in time and you will likely not have head gasket problems.
Regarding the head gasket, just keep a regular eye on the coolant level, at the very least once a week. Any drop in level should be investigated immediately to save yourself the work/repair bill of a head gasket. They very rarely fail spontaneously, most are caused by overheating due to coolant leaks from e.g. the inlet manifold gasket, water pump, leaking thermostat housing etc. Catch these in time and you will likely not have head gasket problems.
Glad you like the car cookie.
It might be worth looking into preventative maintanence. I know on the turbo 1.8 there is a T piece that connects piping. As it is made out of plastic it cracks and leaks. Im not sure if they are also present ont he NA 1.8. Might be worth looking into.
I also believe someone has made a coolant level alarm allowing you to see when the coolant has dropped. Again Im not 100% on whther these are available easily. Maybe someone can help confirm this?
Metal T piece can be seen here.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...
It might be worth looking into preventative maintanence. I know on the turbo 1.8 there is a T piece that connects piping. As it is made out of plastic it cracks and leaks. Im not sure if they are also present ont he NA 1.8. Might be worth looking into.
I also believe someone has made a coolant level alarm allowing you to see when the coolant has dropped. Again Im not 100% on whther these are available easily. Maybe someone can help confirm this?
Metal T piece can be seen here.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...
Edited by Mike 820 on Monday 14th February 13:54
Hi, I've noticed from this thread that cambelt change intervals are 90k/6yrs. I've looked at a 54 plate ZS 180 with approx. 42k on the clock in excellent condition. The service book is ticked for cam belt change (or is that a check, thought that you couldn't do that) but no sign of belt change in the history, which seems complete. Obviously mileagewise it's nowhere near a change and it wouldn't be our main car, but the cambelt age worries me a bit. I've read that cambelts will go onto 150k but MGR played it safe and went for 90k. If that is the case, then the same would apply to the belt age, perhaps, or am I grabbing at straws? The owner doesn't seem sure as to whether the belts were changed, but it seems a pity to let a well looked after car go. How much would it cost to change the belts on a ZS and I imagine the waterpump? Also what's the story re water in the boot. I've noticed this on ZRs that we've looked at and there was some in the wheelwell on the ZS. I had this problem on a 420Gsi some years ago and found that the water was coming through a bolt hole in the side where the rear bumper clamps. Fixed it with some sealant and never had another problem. Might this be the same. Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread!!!
Good that you have choose to pick the zs i have one my self and at 18 its the cheapest car out of all my mates cars to insure. Just keep an eye on the water level i had a leak over the winter had a look when i was in colege and found out it was the water pump and inlet manafold gasket took about 4hrs to do both. Water pumps tend to go after 7 or so years so change it with the timing belt. Apart from the engine there not much to go wrong just general reparis. Dont believe all the s
t people talk about mg on here they are good cars but need to be looked after more than other cars like vw/audi. Dont treat then like white goods then they will start going wrong but by the sounds of it your keeping a check on it. Hope you enjoy your zs.
t people talk about mg on here they are good cars but need to be looked after more than other cars like vw/audi. Dont treat then like white goods then they will start going wrong but by the sounds of it your keeping a check on it. Hope you enjoy your zs. timbo48 said:
Hi, I've noticed from this thread that cambelt change intervals are 90k/6yrs. I've looked at a 54 plate ZS 180 with approx. 42k on the clock in excellent condition. The service book is ticked for cam belt change (or is that a check, thought that you couldn't do that) but no sign of belt change in the history, which seems complete. Obviously mileagewise it's nowhere near a change and it wouldn't be our main car, but the cambelt age worries me a bit. I've read that cambelts will go onto 150k but MGR played it safe and went for 90k. If that is the case, then the same would apply to the belt age, perhaps, or am I grabbing at straws? The owner doesn't seem sure as to whether the belts were changed, but it seems a pity to let a well looked after car go. How much would it cost to change the belts on a ZS and I imagine the waterpump? Also what's the story re water in the boot. I've noticed this on ZRs that we've looked at and there was some in the wheelwell on the ZS. I had this problem on a 420Gsi some years ago and found that the water was coming through a bolt hole in the side where the rear bumper clamps. Fixed it with some sealant and never had another problem. Might this be the same. Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread!!!
I seem to recall from one of the MG forums that when an owner had his belts changed at 30k they were tired. Then there are people that leave the belts for longer than 6 years and don't have a problem.Check what the owner paid for the service. Prices for changing the belts range from £400 - £1000+.
Off the top of my head; water can get in the boot through:
-Rear lights
-Bumper fixings
-Fuel filler 'opening'
-Under the boot seal
You or a friend need to sit in the boot while the other one pours water over the rear of the car.
Thanks for the reply, I can sort the leak out, that wouldn't stop me buying but cambelt might. None of the bills we saw mentioned it and certainly weren't big enough to include change. I suppose if we buy it'll be the first job. I guess that finding somebody reasonably local who has experience of these engines would be better than just letting my local garage do it. Ho hum.
ALWAYS change the Water Pump at the same time as renewing the Timing Belts. On the 1.8 ZS, all three belts need to be removed when renewing the Timing Belt so renew all three. The timing belt also drives the Water Pump on the 4-cylinder K-Series. The PAS and Alternator Belts are not as durable as the Timing Belts. They are an easy DIY job to replace and inexpensive too.
We have had a number of K-Series cars in the family for close on twenty years. The last new one being an MG ZS120+ purchased new in May 2003. Touch wood, none have had a so called cylinder head gasket 'failure' and the oldest car, a 1993 Rover Metro has been handed down to the youngsters in the family and is still running strong.
I have recently bought a 02-Reg Rover 25 ( for my younger son's first car ) and an 01-Reg Rover 45 both with a known damaged cylinder head gasket. I have renewed the gasket on boith cars and both are now giving fine service in the family. I was able to identify the cause of the coolant loss which lead to the damaged gasket on both cars. The R25 simply had a worn Water Pump and the R 45 had a loosened coolant elbow on thye cylinder head which allowed the coolant to escape. The R45 showed evidence of being serviced shortly before the gasket became damaged. Whoever serviced the car for the previous owner slipped up and it was they who were the real 'failures'.
I believe the K-Series Water Pump wear is more age related than mileage related. Indeed, higher mileage cars have less premature water pump wear than relatively less used cars. Six to seven years has been the wear rate renewal on those cars in my family.
I strongly suspect that worn water pumps going unnoticed by the drivers of these K-Series cars probably accounts for a large proportion of these so called "HGFs". The Water Pump on my ZS "failed" at six years and eleven months.... spectacularly with a waterfall of colourful coolant under the pump location as my wife pulled up on arrival home after a longish journey. I spotted the problem and renewed the pump. £25 incl. p/p off ebay delivered to my door next day within 24 hours.
The MG ZR, ZS and ZT all have good handling for ordinary production cars. The ZS is the best handling package of all the MG 'Zed' cars. Indeed, the ZS120 is better than the more powerful V6 version. The overall balance of the smaller engined version really is a delight. My wife is the main driver of our ZS and talks enthusiastically about the car. She is the most unenthusiastic car person I know which really says a lot for the car.
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We have had a number of K-Series cars in the family for close on twenty years. The last new one being an MG ZS120+ purchased new in May 2003. Touch wood, none have had a so called cylinder head gasket 'failure' and the oldest car, a 1993 Rover Metro has been handed down to the youngsters in the family and is still running strong.
I have recently bought a 02-Reg Rover 25 ( for my younger son's first car ) and an 01-Reg Rover 45 both with a known damaged cylinder head gasket. I have renewed the gasket on boith cars and both are now giving fine service in the family. I was able to identify the cause of the coolant loss which lead to the damaged gasket on both cars. The R25 simply had a worn Water Pump and the R 45 had a loosened coolant elbow on thye cylinder head which allowed the coolant to escape. The R45 showed evidence of being serviced shortly before the gasket became damaged. Whoever serviced the car for the previous owner slipped up and it was they who were the real 'failures'.
I believe the K-Series Water Pump wear is more age related than mileage related. Indeed, higher mileage cars have less premature water pump wear than relatively less used cars. Six to seven years has been the wear rate renewal on those cars in my family.
I strongly suspect that worn water pumps going unnoticed by the drivers of these K-Series cars probably accounts for a large proportion of these so called "HGFs". The Water Pump on my ZS "failed" at six years and eleven months.... spectacularly with a waterfall of colourful coolant under the pump location as my wife pulled up on arrival home after a longish journey. I spotted the problem and renewed the pump. £25 incl. p/p off ebay delivered to my door next day within 24 hours.
The MG ZR, ZS and ZT all have good handling for ordinary production cars. The ZS is the best handling package of all the MG 'Zed' cars. Indeed, the ZS120 is better than the more powerful V6 version. The overall balance of the smaller engined version really is a delight. My wife is the main driver of our ZS and talks enthusiastically about the car. She is the most unenthusiastic car person I know which really says a lot for the car.
.
timbo48 said:
Hi, I've noticed from this thread that cambelt change intervals are 90k/6yrs. I've looked at a 54 plate ZS 180 with approx. 42k on the clock in excellent condition. The service book is ticked for cam belt change (or is that a check, thought that you couldn't do that) but no sign of belt change in the history, which seems complete. Obviously mileagewise it's nowhere near a change and it wouldn't be our main car, but the cambelt age worries me a bit. I've read that cambelts will go onto 150k but MGR played it safe and went for 90k. If that is the case, then the same would apply to the belt age, perhaps, or am I grabbing at straws? The owner doesn't seem sure as to whether the belts were changed, but it seems a pity to let a well looked after car go. How much would it cost to change the belts on a ZS and I imagine the waterpump? Also what's the story re water in the boot. I've noticed this on ZRs that we've looked at and there was some in the wheelwell on the ZS. I had this problem on a 420Gsi some years ago and found that the water was coming through a bolt hole in the side where the rear bumper clamps. Fixed it with some sealant and never had
another problem. Might this be the same. Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread!!!
Replacing the cambelt (and other belts) is such a major and important item of servicing that most people would keep the bill for it, and I'd expect it to be with the service history of any car. I would never just take a seller's word for it.another problem. Might this be the same. Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread!!!
If in doubt have the belts changed at the earliest recommended interval.
Don't know about the K-Series, but on the L-series diesels it should only be £200-£250 including labour...so wouldn't expect the 1.8 to be much different.
These cars also benefit from a decent set of tyres.
Thanks for all the replies guys.
Will be changing oil and filter next week, and as soon as the weather gets warmer I will be stripping down the head and changing the gasket and all the belts. along with the water pump. I understand that the new gasket is the MLS one from automotive?
Never really stripped down anything to such an extent before but with all the info I have found on here am going to give it a go, now where did I put that torque spanner! lol
Plus as has been mentioned on here before the handling really is suprising, I have owned two mx5's and a nissan 300zx to mention but a few and this car is right up there with the entertainment stakes on a twisty b road!
Still watching that coolant level like a hawk though!
Will be changing oil and filter next week, and as soon as the weather gets warmer I will be stripping down the head and changing the gasket and all the belts. along with the water pump. I understand that the new gasket is the MLS one from automotive?
Never really stripped down anything to such an extent before but with all the info I have found on here am going to give it a go, now where did I put that torque spanner! lol
Plus as has been mentioned on here before the handling really is suprising, I have owned two mx5's and a nissan 300zx to mention but a few and this car is right up there with the entertainment stakes on a twisty b road!
Still watching that coolant level like a hawk though!
cookie400 said:
.....I understand that the new gasket is the MLS one from automotive?
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This is the one I've used. Got it off ebay ... the vendor's ID was 'shirley' something. They specialise in gaskets for many cars and have been very helpful for me in the past. Many of the key parts which went into the K-Series were sourced in Germany. I believe these MLS ( Multi Layer Steel ) cylinder head gaskets are made by Elring ( German ) who have a factory in the North East of England. A Rover enthusiast on another web site worked there some years ago. Elring also produced the uprated MLS gasket for the Rover T-Series Turbocharged cars. Known as the 'Klinger', they were fitted to later turbo cars in the production run up until the last left the production lines about 1999. MLS gaskets from Elring no longer carry the 'legend' Klinger. Otherwise identical..
cookie400 said:
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Still watching that coolant level like a hawk though!
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Very wise to do that on any car following head gasket replacement until you are confident is is now well. Bleeding the K-Series cooling system requires a tad more care than say with the Rover T-Series which almost self bleeds. Even the best run pro-workshops occasionally cock up hence the number of so called 'repeat' HGFs soon after pro-fitment. Still watching that coolant level like a hawk though!
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