Mgb roadster buying advice
Discussion
Hi everyone.
I'm meeting someone this weekend to see if we are going to do a deal involvign a swap for my t5 for a 1977 mgb roadster.
Reasons:
Always fancied a classic, have been into classics since i can rememer but here in Ireland classic insurance isn't availale till you come of an age!
The t5 is surplus to requirements and being honest keeping it will mean my license will depart soon due to our new privately operated speed cameras.
Classic insurance 200euro. Volvo 800euro. Classic tax here 48euro a year, Volvo 248euro a quarter.
I'm handy with the spanners and do all my own maintenance and i have a tame mechanic who i grew up with so we are always tinkering with cars.
So what to look out for when i go to see this mgb roadster. I know its the unloved version being rubber bumpered, and the heightened the suspension. I know its not fast but i want a car i can enjoy at the speed limits. Rot is the biggest concern, First points of call to look at? I'm 6ft, will i fit in it? And anything else ye want to add!
Thanking you all in advance!
I'm meeting someone this weekend to see if we are going to do a deal involvign a swap for my t5 for a 1977 mgb roadster.
Reasons:
Always fancied a classic, have been into classics since i can rememer but here in Ireland classic insurance isn't availale till you come of an age!
The t5 is surplus to requirements and being honest keeping it will mean my license will depart soon due to our new privately operated speed cameras.
Classic insurance 200euro. Volvo 800euro. Classic tax here 48euro a year, Volvo 248euro a quarter.
I'm handy with the spanners and do all my own maintenance and i have a tame mechanic who i grew up with so we are always tinkering with cars.
So what to look out for when i go to see this mgb roadster. I know its the unloved version being rubber bumpered, and the heightened the suspension. I know its not fast but i want a car i can enjoy at the speed limits. Rot is the biggest concern, First points of call to look at? I'm 6ft, will i fit in it? And anything else ye want to add!
Thanking you all in advance!
Leaving aside the mechanics for a sec, you'd be wise to check the sills, rear spring mounts, floor pan either side of the transmission tunnel, all inner wings, boot floor. Doors can split close to the mirror mounts and rot at the bottom, front wings can also rot around the headlight, although these are bolt on and easy to replace relatively.
If it's had any bodywork done ask for proof but if it looks dodgy I'd walk away, should be plenty to choose from.
As for mechanics, the engine should fire up quickly with no blue smoke and oil pressure should be about 65-70 atleast but less on tick-over and warm, can drop down to 40, check the overdrive flicks in and out quickly on 3rd and 4th, gears should change easily as it's quite a nice box with a short throw. Listen for any whine or clunk from the drivetrain. It will tend to crash over bumps and be a lot noisier than a modern car but you'll get used to it.
But bodywork is king, if it's not right in any of the areas mentioned it will start to cost come MOT time. I'm sure more advice will appear soon.
If it's had any bodywork done ask for proof but if it looks dodgy I'd walk away, should be plenty to choose from.
As for mechanics, the engine should fire up quickly with no blue smoke and oil pressure should be about 65-70 atleast but less on tick-over and warm, can drop down to 40, check the overdrive flicks in and out quickly on 3rd and 4th, gears should change easily as it's quite a nice box with a short throw. Listen for any whine or clunk from the drivetrain. It will tend to crash over bumps and be a lot noisier than a modern car but you'll get used to it.
But bodywork is king, if it's not right in any of the areas mentioned it will start to cost come MOT time. I'm sure more advice will appear soon.
Edited by saxxeblt on Wednesday 24th November 21:36
A few good pointers on this thread from a few weeks ago:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Most has been summarized already in the above post.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Most has been summarized already in the above post.
Saxxeblt has it pretty much covered there. Sills are expensive to put right and if the sills are rotten, the chances are the rest is needing attention too.
Height wise, my dad was 6'4" and comfortable in the B. His head must have stuck up a bit though, because even a short arse like me gets considerably more buffeting on the B than I do in the Alfa.
Height wise, my dad was 6'4" and comfortable in the B. His head must have stuck up a bit though, because even a short arse like me gets considerably more buffeting on the B than I do in the Alfa.
Like everybody else the body work is the over riding factor in owning any mg. The engine And mechanicals are easy to work on and cheap for parts. - hve a B roadster with a zetec in it its great goes well and is a nice change the exhaust note is the same. Ins 108 per year FC if B4 1973 no tax as well.
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