Buying an MGB GT for every day use
Discussion
Hi there every one
I am looking to buy an MG B GT for every day use.
I live in London, but travel down to Devon, about 250 miles most weekends.
So my question is it feasible to expect an MG B to be able to cope with this? Preferably I want a early 1970's model.
For one that doesn't require any or much work, how much is a reasonable price?
Thanks in advance for your advice!
I am looking to buy an MG B GT for every day use.
I live in London, but travel down to Devon, about 250 miles most weekends.
So my question is it feasible to expect an MG B to be able to cope with this? Preferably I want a early 1970's model.
For one that doesn't require any or much work, how much is a reasonable price?
Thanks in advance for your advice!
An early 70s mgb gt will be around 2-4 grand for a good example and 5+ for a mint eaxample i would'nt want to use them every day but im sure they can be used every day one tip get one with overdrive makes it a lot more comfotable to drive expecially on the motorway i would think of getting something more newer mind you if you are going to do 250 miles most weekends
No problem with doing 250 miles each weekend more problems doing frequent short journeys round London
Overdrive is a good tip
Before thinking about buying a car buy an owners Handbook to see what's required for full regular servicing and driving the car
A low mileage car or one that hasn't been used for a while is more likely to have stored up problems than one that is used regularly or higher mileage - remember that when buying
Things like good quality electronic ignition, good batteries and battery leads will help plus full and regular servicing - check Handbook for just how much - and so much other stuff you can pick up from prevoius threads asking the same question - do a search
EFS
Overdrive is a good tip
Before thinking about buying a car buy an owners Handbook to see what's required for full regular servicing and driving the car
A low mileage car or one that hasn't been used for a while is more likely to have stored up problems than one that is used regularly or higher mileage - remember that when buying
Things like good quality electronic ignition, good batteries and battery leads will help plus full and regular servicing - check Handbook for just how much - and so much other stuff you can pick up from prevoius threads asking the same question - do a search
EFS
Edited by SB - Nigel on Wednesday 14th July 15:09
I used to do 70 miles a day in mine on mixed roads and frequently take it backwards and forwards from Portsmouth to Exmouth / Plymouth at weekends without any dramas. As has been said earlier, the more the car is used the better they go.
You want a post 1965 car as they have 5 bearing engines instead of the earlier 3. This makes it stronger although slightly less revvy.
Virtually every car post 65 comes with an overdrive box. It's very rare to see one without it. Makes 70mph run at about 3200rpm, which works out at about 30+mpg on a well looked after car.
The most important thing to look for is bodywork, especially the sills, floorpans, scuttle in front of the windscreen (from the inside) and inner wings. Everything else is relatively cheap to sort out i.e. brake disks cost £13 each!
There are some good and cheap-ish mods to do to help improve performance and reliability. You need to start by making the car breathe better - the heads a really crap design and although there is a crossflow head available, it ain't cheap. If you're short on cash, just get the carbs set up properly. Then look at things like K+N airfilters (~£70 iirc), electronic ignition (£100 roughly), better exhaust system (£300 stainless steel full length), getting the head gasflowed (£50 + gaskets plus time to take off and put back on again) - all of this will give you an extra 10 or so bhp i.e. 10% improvement and better starting without costing the earth.
Don't be put off looking at the rubber bumper cars - you get a lot more car for your money, especially the later 70s versions where they've put a decent anti-roll bar on the rear. I drove a 76 GT once and I could get the back out at 20mph on roundabouts. My B, with decent suspension and tyres, would have held on for twice that.
You want a post 1965 car as they have 5 bearing engines instead of the earlier 3. This makes it stronger although slightly less revvy.
Virtually every car post 65 comes with an overdrive box. It's very rare to see one without it. Makes 70mph run at about 3200rpm, which works out at about 30+mpg on a well looked after car.
The most important thing to look for is bodywork, especially the sills, floorpans, scuttle in front of the windscreen (from the inside) and inner wings. Everything else is relatively cheap to sort out i.e. brake disks cost £13 each!
There are some good and cheap-ish mods to do to help improve performance and reliability. You need to start by making the car breathe better - the heads a really crap design and although there is a crossflow head available, it ain't cheap. If you're short on cash, just get the carbs set up properly. Then look at things like K+N airfilters (~£70 iirc), electronic ignition (£100 roughly), better exhaust system (£300 stainless steel full length), getting the head gasflowed (£50 + gaskets plus time to take off and put back on again) - all of this will give you an extra 10 or so bhp i.e. 10% improvement and better starting without costing the earth.
Don't be put off looking at the rubber bumper cars - you get a lot more car for your money, especially the later 70s versions where they've put a decent anti-roll bar on the rear. I drove a 76 GT once and I could get the back out at 20mph on roundabouts. My B, with decent suspension and tyres, would have held on for twice that.
Good advice from Alfa
Personaly I'd put put things like S/S exhuast off until the exhaust needs replacement and gasflowed head only after the car is fully sorted and you fancy a bit more out of it
I do like K&Ns tho' and electronic ignition or better still a 1-2-3 fully electronic dissy
As I've said buy yourself a owners Handbook (instead of or before a Haynes) and if you buy a car do the full and proper 36,000 mile servive only excluding bits you know for certain have been done very recently, include:
good quality rotor arm (losts are rubbish)
dissy cap
good quality ignition leads
brake and clutch fluid
4-LIFE engine coolant (bottom of page)
Tyres - if the tyres are more than 5/6 years old no matter how much tread they have replace them, they're not expensive so buy a set of four (I never bother with a spare just a foot pump, reliable pressure guage and a can of stuff if you must (drive steady for the first 100 miles on new tyres)
I wouldn't recommend any cosmetic or other "improvements" until you've done say 12,000 miles because you need to get the car used and you used to the car plus you may need that money for other repairs
Find out about the donkey's dick unless you want a wet leg (do your research on the car)
Look there's been loads of threads on PH alone on buying a classic/MG read all views as some are rubbish (perhaps mine are) if you follow my posts from my profile you'll see a pattern because I've owned and driven classics as dailies for many years
You can also learn by my mistakes (I still make loads)
Test drive as many examples as you can including some well above what you want to pay to see how a good mechanical example should be and run (note; shiney red paint and chrome wire wheels do not always mean a good reliable daily car)
Don't buy one of the first you see or drive unless you've come back to it after driving others
£,000s spent recently is relevent not over a good number of years
I spend hundreds of pounds a month on my car but if it was a BGT I doubt you'd give it much notice because of its appearance despite its lack of rust - its a go car not a show car - what you should look for
That's your lot from me
Personaly I'd put put things like S/S exhuast off until the exhaust needs replacement and gasflowed head only after the car is fully sorted and you fancy a bit more out of it
I do like K&Ns tho' and electronic ignition or better still a 1-2-3 fully electronic dissy
As I've said buy yourself a owners Handbook (instead of or before a Haynes) and if you buy a car do the full and proper 36,000 mile servive only excluding bits you know for certain have been done very recently, include:
good quality rotor arm (losts are rubbish)
dissy cap
good quality ignition leads
brake and clutch fluid
4-LIFE engine coolant (bottom of page)
Tyres - if the tyres are more than 5/6 years old no matter how much tread they have replace them, they're not expensive so buy a set of four (I never bother with a spare just a foot pump, reliable pressure guage and a can of stuff if you must (drive steady for the first 100 miles on new tyres)
I wouldn't recommend any cosmetic or other "improvements" until you've done say 12,000 miles because you need to get the car used and you used to the car plus you may need that money for other repairs
Find out about the donkey's dick unless you want a wet leg (do your research on the car)
Look there's been loads of threads on PH alone on buying a classic/MG read all views as some are rubbish (perhaps mine are) if you follow my posts from my profile you'll see a pattern because I've owned and driven classics as dailies for many years
You can also learn by my mistakes (I still make loads)
Test drive as many examples as you can including some well above what you want to pay to see how a good mechanical example should be and run (note; shiney red paint and chrome wire wheels do not always mean a good reliable daily car)
Don't buy one of the first you see or drive unless you've come back to it after driving others
£,000s spent recently is relevent not over a good number of years
I spend hundreds of pounds a month on my car but if it was a BGT I doubt you'd give it much notice because of its appearance despite its lack of rust - its a go car not a show car - what you should look for
That's your lot from me
Edited by SB - Nigel on Wednesday 14th July 15:48
I drive a 72 BGT as an everyday car.
Mostly I'd only be going over what has already been said but....
Old cars need lots of TLC, mine has been pretty reliable but things do go wrong (and always at the worst most inconveniant time!) is that somethign you can deal with on an everyday motor? I've just spent this morning sorting out indicators that wouldn't flash properly, I work for myself so I'm lucky I can juggle time for stuff like this, not everyone can. (that includes getting a garage to do it).
There are some bad bits though...
Despite what people tell you when they have their rose tinted glasses on, these care were badly built and to be honest not that well engineered in a lot of respects. Don't mis-understand me, I love mine and wouldn't swap it for the world (well maybe a an e-type or a '72 911s perhaps!). Theyre not total crap, but the build quality is suspect, and rust just appears from nowhere if youve not dumped gallons of waxoyl in it due to the numerous water/mud traps around the car. just be aware is all im saying. Service it regularly, keep the arches (inside) etc clean and you wont have too many hassles.
However...
They can be used as an everyday car, i use mine, I believe SBnigel uses his midget everyday, but they're not reliable in the sense of a brand new toyota might be, but with proper diligent care, you'll be ok for the most part. I agree with Nigel about the 36k service bit. With the milage your talking about your going to have some teething problems with any old car in the first few months, don't be discouraged, once thats all fixed it will be fine.
Stiffer springs, 7/8th ARB , K&N's and a free flow exhaust will keep the smile on your face!
Mostly I'd only be going over what has already been said but....
Old cars need lots of TLC, mine has been pretty reliable but things do go wrong (and always at the worst most inconveniant time!) is that somethign you can deal with on an everyday motor? I've just spent this morning sorting out indicators that wouldn't flash properly, I work for myself so I'm lucky I can juggle time for stuff like this, not everyone can. (that includes getting a garage to do it).
There are some bad bits though...
Despite what people tell you when they have their rose tinted glasses on, these care were badly built and to be honest not that well engineered in a lot of respects. Don't mis-understand me, I love mine and wouldn't swap it for the world (well maybe a an e-type or a '72 911s perhaps!). Theyre not total crap, but the build quality is suspect, and rust just appears from nowhere if youve not dumped gallons of waxoyl in it due to the numerous water/mud traps around the car. just be aware is all im saying. Service it regularly, keep the arches (inside) etc clean and you wont have too many hassles.
However...
They can be used as an everyday car, i use mine, I believe SBnigel uses his midget everyday, but they're not reliable in the sense of a brand new toyota might be, but with proper diligent care, you'll be ok for the most part. I agree with Nigel about the 36k service bit. With the milage your talking about your going to have some teething problems with any old car in the first few months, don't be discouraged, once thats all fixed it will be fine.
Stiffer springs, 7/8th ARB , K&N's and a free flow exhaust will keep the smile on your face!
not mutal black slapping, well not too much 
neilr raises good points
I've hinted buy the best example you can, spending more on a good car at the start will saving you lots in the medium and long run (boy, I do I know about getting it wrong)
Don't be fooled by shiney paint alone
Anyone can afford to buy a classic not all want to or can afford to persist with one but get a good one and keep on top of it and it will work out well and make moderns seem very boring (and not always totally reliable)
ETA: er, Jonzi are you still with us? bought a car yet?
neilr raises good points
I've hinted buy the best example you can, spending more on a good car at the start will saving you lots in the medium and long run (boy, I do I know about getting it wrong)
Don't be fooled by shiney paint alone
Anyone can afford to buy a classic not all want to or can afford to persist with one but get a good one and keep on top of it and it will work out well and make moderns seem very boring (and not always totally reliable)
ETA: er, Jonzi are you still with us? bought a car yet?
Edited by SB - Nigel on Wednesday 14th July 18:39
Well well!
Thanks for all the sound advice.
Not bought any thing yet, I have been travelling the world for the past 8 months and need a job before I can buy one. But hopefully that will come soon (or a lottery win)
But once I do buy I will be using all the great advice that every one has provided.
Many thanks
One last question... besides this site and ebay, are there any other places online for MG's?
Thanks for all the sound advice.
Not bought any thing yet, I have been travelling the world for the past 8 months and need a job before I can buy one. But hopefully that will come soon (or a lottery win)
But once I do buy I will be using all the great advice that every one has provided.
Many thanks
One last question... besides this site and ebay, are there any other places online for MG's?
Was looking at this a couple of weeks ago, looked quite nice:-
http://www.mathewsons.co.uk/shop/product.php?xProd...
http://www.mathewsons.co.uk/shop/product.php?xProd...
jonzi said:
One last question... besides this site and ebay, are there any other places online for MG's?
do you mean forums like this - http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgb...or club/parts outlets like this - http://www.mgownersclub.co.uk/
Good luck with your job search
jonzi said:
Well well!
Thanks for all the sound advice.
Not bought any thing yet, I have been travelling the world for the past 8 months and need a job before I can buy one. But hopefully that will come soon (or a lottery win)
But once I do buy I will be using all the great advice that every one has provided.
Many thanks
One last question... besides this site and ebay, are there any other places online for MG's?
MG Owners Club in your area will meet up monthly - see the website for details. You could go along to their meet for a chat, find out if any they know of any cars that are being sold, might even get an offer of assistance in picking out a good one in return for a pint.Thanks for all the sound advice.
Not bought any thing yet, I have been travelling the world for the past 8 months and need a job before I can buy one. But hopefully that will come soon (or a lottery win)
But once I do buy I will be using all the great advice that every one has provided.
Many thanks
One last question... besides this site and ebay, are there any other places online for MG's?
Alternate viewpoint: I drove a BGT V8 all of the UK and Europe for over 40k miles in two years and found it was pretty reliable with frequent use and modern leccy bits. I would really recommend a V8 if you could stretch to it, they'll do 30 mpg on a run and they cruise at motorway speeds+++ with ease. I've owned many MG's including a BGT and CGT (still own) and the V8 really is in another league.
Having had a few V8s including a V8 conversion rubber bumper MGB roadster I love them but they are more expensive to buy and run (especially on town runs)
If jonzi likes his intitial BGT then after a couple of years perhaps he might want to move up to a V8 but I've found you can warn people about petrol consumption but they wont really understand until they experience it and then some find it a shock even tho' they've been warned - plus of course all the other higher running costs of a V8 over the 4 pot
30 mpg on a run is quite a bit less than the 4 pot with 12,000 miles a year and town runs, which the V8 will be very thirsty on, the difference in petrol cost alone will be high
However IF you can afford a GOOD QUALITY BGT V8 and its running costs then yeah get it
If jonzi likes his intitial BGT then after a couple of years perhaps he might want to move up to a V8 but I've found you can warn people about petrol consumption but they wont really understand until they experience it and then some find it a shock even tho' they've been warned - plus of course all the other higher running costs of a V8 over the 4 pot
30 mpg on a run is quite a bit less than the 4 pot with 12,000 miles a year and town runs, which the V8 will be very thirsty on, the difference in petrol cost alone will be high
However IF you can afford a GOOD QUALITY BGT V8 and its running costs then yeah get it
Edited by SB - Nigel on Thursday 15th July 13:12
SB - Nigel said:
Having had a few V8s including a V8 conversion rubber bumper MGB roadster I love them but they are more expensive to buy and run (especially on town runs)
Strange as I'd have said my V8 TR7 is better on fuel than my 1850 MGB GT.Edited by SB - Nigel on Thursday 15th July 13:12
300bhp/ton said:
SB - Nigel said:
Having had a few V8s including a V8 conversion rubber bumper MGB roadster I love them but they are more expensive to buy and run (especially on town runs)
Strange as I'd have said my V8 TR7 is better on fuel than my 1850 MGB GT.Let me put it this way a standard BGT V8 would use quite a bit more petrol than a standard 1800 BGT
I've kept all my cars fully serviced and driven all in the same sort of way and the V8s that I've owned and driven have all used more petrol than the equivalent non-V8 models
SB - Nigel said:
300bhp/ton said:
SB - Nigel said:
Having had a few V8s including a V8 conversion rubber bumper MGB roadster I love them but they are more expensive to buy and run (especially on town runs)
Strange as I'd have said my V8 TR7 is better on fuel than my 1850 MGB GT.Let me put it this way a standard BGT V8 would use quite a bit more petrol than a standard 1800 BGT
I've kept all my cars fully serviced and driven all in the same sort of way and the V8s that I've owned and driven have all used more petrol than the equivalent non-V8 models
Reckon I used to get 17-19mpg most of the time, although it'd dip into the low 20's on a longer run.
The TR7 V8 tends to average 20-24mpg pretty consistently.
alfa pint said:
Bloody hell! My old B had 105 bhp at the wheels and included most of the mods discussed above, plus straight through exhaust and sports suspension and I was getting 30mpg, up to 35 on a steady run.
I admit I didn't do many real long runs. Was used purely for fun After the B I went to a 1.8i F, that used to average 28mpg, then a VVC F which did 27mpg, then the TR7 (2.0) 24-25mpg, MG Maestro 2.0 EFI, 24-26mpg then the TR7 V8.
Maybe it was just my driving style
I admit I ran a 300TDI Defender along side the MG B, that used to do 21-22mpg.I can't really remember now but over 35 mpg on a run would sound nearer for a standard MGB GT 1800 in good condition and well serviced driven around NSL speeds
Perhaps lagerlout could tell us more mpg figures for a regularly used MGB GT V8 - including round town
Note to jonzi as standard and in book set up the 1800s ran on leaded 100 octane petrol but they don't have to now
Perhaps lagerlout could tell us more mpg figures for a regularly used MGB GT V8 - including round town
Note to jonzi as standard and in book set up the 1800s ran on leaded 100 octane petrol but they don't have to now
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