MG Midget - first drive
Discussion
After 2 years of tinkering and with a clean MOT in the bag, I finally had a proper go in the 1500. Main impressions are how involving it is and how scary the brakes are. Although they worked well when called upon. The engine runs well and pulls smoothly and the steering has no noticeable slack. The weakest link is the gearbox as it seems to have seen better days with worn synchros and noisy lay shafts. But I've got a spare lower mileage unit ready. Loved the having top down - totally different experience.
High on the list of priorities are new tyres all round and a thorough service from myself.
Also noticed that the engine runs on when hot after the ignition is cut (not for long maybe 1 second) what is/are the common causes of this?
High on the list of priorities are new tyres all round and a thorough service from myself.
Also noticed that the engine runs on when hot after the ignition is cut (not for long maybe 1 second) what is/are the common causes of this?
I always recommend a full and proper 36,000 mile service, see the owners Handbook, if you've not got one they're only £8 and are invaluable see http://www9.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgo...
Good tyres will help with the braking and handling old rubber no matter how deep the tread will not be as good, no need for wider tyres
A good battery is a must for all classics
Run on could be a few things but timing is a favourite
I don't know much about the 1500 (Triumph engined) models so try joining and asking here
Good tyres will help with the braking and handling old rubber no matter how deep the tread will not be as good, no need for wider tyres
A good battery is a must for all classics
Run on could be a few things but timing is a favourite
I don't know much about the 1500 (Triumph engined) models so try joining and asking here
SB-Nigel said...
Well I agree with everything he said
Get rid of any old tyres, cars kept stored have tyres that look OK but have outlived their safe lives
Ad The MGE BBs is a very "Good Thing"
They make everyone welcome there and have a huge wealth of Spridgety experience
Enjoy your car these cars are huge fun
Well I agree with everything he said
Get rid of any old tyres, cars kept stored have tyres that look OK but have outlived their safe lives
Ad The MGE BBs is a very "Good Thing"
They make everyone welcome there and have a huge wealth of Spridgety experience
Enjoy your car these cars are huge fun
As compensation for those rubber bumpers you get a good Spitfire engine 
On the brakes - have you fitted standard modern pads? If so they'd likely have cost you about £5-£10.
For instantly confidence inspiring brakes I'd advise finding a set of Mintex M1144 pads and fitting these. Modern standard friction materials on those tiny pads just aren't up for the job, however the M1144 material will give you REAL bite - way better than greenstuff which some recommend IMO.
ETA - should be able to get M1144 pads for about £30 (£40 at the outside). Worth every penny.
On the brakes - have you fitted standard modern pads? If so they'd likely have cost you about £5-£10.
For instantly confidence inspiring brakes I'd advise finding a set of Mintex M1144 pads and fitting these. Modern standard friction materials on those tiny pads just aren't up for the job, however the M1144 material will give you REAL bite - way better than greenstuff which some recommend IMO.
ETA - should be able to get M1144 pads for about £30 (£40 at the outside). Worth every penny.
Edited by Spitfire2 on Wednesday 30th June 21:14
In addition to the timing point which has been mentioned, other causes of run- on may be:
- you may be running lean. Lean engines run hotter. Hot engines run-on. Another cause of lean is air being sucked in around worn throttle/ carb parts
-What octane fuel re you using. You might want to try a higher octane and see what happens
- is it idlng too fast? if you are on any more than 1000rpm then try lowering it to something less ( say, 800-900rpm)
- you may be running lean. Lean engines run hotter. Hot engines run-on. Another cause of lean is air being sucked in around worn throttle/ carb parts
-What octane fuel re you using. You might want to try a higher octane and see what happens
- is it idlng too fast? if you are on any more than 1000rpm then try lowering it to something less ( say, 800-900rpm)
The running on could possible carbon on the piston heads, it starts to glow and then acts the same as a 'glow engine' that's fitted to radio control areoplanes..
If i recall correctly, Reddex is supposed to move it otherwise a decoke is called for...
Check out the other possibilities first though
John
If i recall correctly, Reddex is supposed to move it otherwise a decoke is called for...
Check out the other possibilities first though
John
yes,
I'd agree. Run on can be caused by hot spots in the combustion chamber.
Any carburetted engine which, for example doesn't have a run -on valve or has one which is defective or is running too low octane fuel will continue to draw in fuel/air after shut-down. Any hot spot inside the combustion chamber can ignite the fuel causing run-on. Right off hand I can think of at least three sources of hot spots.
Spark plugs of the wrong temperature range can run red hot at the tip. This can also lead to premature failure of the ceramic insulator near the tip of the plug. Check the your guide or any manufacturer's info for the correct spark plug type.
It might be carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. The carbon deposits have a rough and irregular surface with many small cracks and edges exposed at the surface. Carbon deposits are also a poor heat conductor. The combined effect is extremely hot bits of carbon which can ignite the fuel after shut-down. For especially heavy deposits, the only but Redex may do the job if the depsoits aren't too heavy
PS Re fuel, Don't know what you use but try a change to something which has less detergents and see what happens. All( or at least most) supermarket fuels are heavy on detergents
I'd agree. Run on can be caused by hot spots in the combustion chamber.
Any carburetted engine which, for example doesn't have a run -on valve or has one which is defective or is running too low octane fuel will continue to draw in fuel/air after shut-down. Any hot spot inside the combustion chamber can ignite the fuel causing run-on. Right off hand I can think of at least three sources of hot spots.
Spark plugs of the wrong temperature range can run red hot at the tip. This can also lead to premature failure of the ceramic insulator near the tip of the plug. Check the your guide or any manufacturer's info for the correct spark plug type.
It might be carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. The carbon deposits have a rough and irregular surface with many small cracks and edges exposed at the surface. Carbon deposits are also a poor heat conductor. The combined effect is extremely hot bits of carbon which can ignite the fuel after shut-down. For especially heavy deposits, the only but Redex may do the job if the depsoits aren't too heavy
PS Re fuel, Don't know what you use but try a change to something which has less detergents and see what happens. All( or at least most) supermarket fuels are heavy on detergents
Thanks for the interesting and useful responses, I'll see how it goes with the run-on, if it gets worse or better, as its just a little blip at the moment. In the meantime I'm looking forward to servicing and tyre purchasing. I do have a copy of the owners handbook already so that's good.
Will post some pics in the pic thread sooner or later
Will post some pics in the pic thread sooner or later
PS
I should have said this in my earlier post and it is a point which has already ben raised. If the tyres are over five years old, then BIN 'EM. Not a question of tread etc but the sidewalls will have degraded- even if the car has been garaged
I know what I'm going to say next is very probably 'grannies, eggs and sucking motions' but tyres carry a three- digit age code on the sidewall indicating the month and year of manufacture. For example 1206 means the tyre was manufactured in December 2006.
I should have said this in my earlier post and it is a point which has already ben raised. If the tyres are over five years old, then BIN 'EM. Not a question of tread etc but the sidewalls will have degraded- even if the car has been garaged
I know what I'm going to say next is very probably 'grannies, eggs and sucking motions' but tyres carry a three- digit age code on the sidewall indicating the month and year of manufacture. For example 1206 means the tyre was manufactured in December 2006.
Edited by GLLHG on Friday 2nd July 17:25
stedale said:
In the meantime I'm looking forward to servicing and tyre purchasing. I do have a copy of the owners handbook already so that's good.
Yeap, good, do the full 36,000 service as per owners Handbook and use the car regularly (after tyre change) and then the car will get better and you will get used to to the car and better driving tecniques like looking further ahead, if the brakes still seem scary after this there's something wrong with themstedale said:
Will post some pics in the pic thread sooner or later
put some up here 
nice gate!
ooops no
I'm being very silly
I like your car and hope you have many years of fun with it
the more you use it the more natural using it becomes and you soon get used to NOT HAVING a servo
Midget brakes are pretty good in normal service
if yours aren't they may need some new shoes and pads
Very unlikely to need much more than this basic attention
have fun, enjoy the present weather, it can't last for ever
Your Midget can, given care and a tad of automobile love
Bill
ooops no
I'm being very silly
I like your car and hope you have many years of fun with it
the more you use it the more natural using it becomes and you soon get used to NOT HAVING a servo
Midget brakes are pretty good in normal service
if yours aren't they may need some new shoes and pads
Very unlikely to need much more than this basic attention
have fun, enjoy the present weather, it can't last for ever
Your Midget can, given care and a tad of automobile love
Bill
perdu said:
nice gate!
ooops no
I'm being very silly
I like your car and hope you have many years of fun with it
the more you use it the more natural using it becomes and you soon get used to NOT HAVING a servo
Midget brakes are pretty good in normal service
if yours aren't they may need some new shoes and pads
Very unlikely to need much more than this basic attention
have fun, enjoy the present weather, it can't last for ever
Your Midget can, given care and a tad of automobile love
Bill
That gate isn't easily missed is it ooops no
I'm being very silly
I like your car and hope you have many years of fun with it
the more you use it the more natural using it becomes and you soon get used to NOT HAVING a servo
Midget brakes are pretty good in normal service
if yours aren't they may need some new shoes and pads
Very unlikely to need much more than this basic attention
have fun, enjoy the present weather, it can't last for ever
Your Midget can, given care and a tad of automobile love
Bill
I'm adjusting to the brakes now it's just a case of giving them a firmer shove than servoed brakes require.
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