My Austin Healey Sprite Build
Discussion
Evening all,
Since there's no Austin or Healey, I thought this might be a good place to put my build diary.
I was wondering what classic to build/restore and modernise whilst I was in there. I was looking at MGB GTs and Roadsters, but decent ones were either too much money, or cheap ones were beyond what I want to restore. I was also contemplating fitting the Cerbera V8 to a Fisher Fury, but decided that a 400 bhp V8 in a 600 KG car was a bit much for, me and besides, funds wouldn't allow.
So last week, my other half was told by a work mate that he had an old MG Midget for sale. It has no papers, and has been imported from the USA, but no one knows when. All I had to go one was a few pics, but I figured it was worth the trip up to Corby to have a look.
These are the pics I had to go on:
There were also a couple of close ups:
Since there's no Austin or Healey, I thought this might be a good place to put my build diary.
I was wondering what classic to build/restore and modernise whilst I was in there. I was looking at MGB GTs and Roadsters, but decent ones were either too much money, or cheap ones were beyond what I want to restore. I was also contemplating fitting the Cerbera V8 to a Fisher Fury, but decided that a 400 bhp V8 in a 600 KG car was a bit much for, me and besides, funds wouldn't allow.
So last week, my other half was told by a work mate that he had an old MG Midget for sale. It has no papers, and has been imported from the USA, but no one knows when. All I had to go one was a few pics, but I figured it was worth the trip up to Corby to have a look.
These are the pics I had to go on:
There were also a couple of close ups:
The plan is to get it registered and road worthy first of all. This involves some hoop jumping with the DVLA and the Sprite OC, and an MOT. The MOT being the hard part.
Once this is done, I intend to go about the modernisation part of my plan. This will involve Frontline front suspension, Frontline's rear Watt's linkage setup and a K series under the bonnet coupled to a type 9. Oh, and upgrade the brakes a bit too.
Having picked the car up on sat, it is now at home in the garage and being emptied of all the spares and parts and cleaned of sand, as the previous owner had a sand blaster in his garage. This will take a little while, but I have nearly all of the parts for the car and the paperwork to start the registration process will take a while if I am to avoid an IVA.
Oh, and the car only cost me £100.
Once this is done, I intend to go about the modernisation part of my plan. This will involve Frontline front suspension, Frontline's rear Watt's linkage setup and a K series under the bonnet coupled to a type 9. Oh, and upgrade the brakes a bit too.
Having picked the car up on sat, it is now at home in the garage and being emptied of all the spares and parts and cleaned of sand, as the previous owner had a sand blaster in his garage. This will take a little while, but I have nearly all of the parts for the car and the paperwork to start the registration process will take a while if I am to avoid an IVA.
Oh, and the car only cost me £100.
A couple of pics as it sits as of now:
It looks like it'll need a pair of rear lower wing sections, a boot floor section as some one has cut a section out to allow access to the fuel gauge and there's a small rust hole next to it anyway, a left hand side lower hinge post section, a repair to the scuttle top and maybe a look at the front inner wheel arches as it looks like they have been badly repaired.
Oh, and for those looking closely, the front is a one piece steel flip front made from welding the front panels together. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep this or not as yet, as a GRP front end would save a fair bit of weight and save me future rust issues.
It looks like it'll need a pair of rear lower wing sections, a boot floor section as some one has cut a section out to allow access to the fuel gauge and there's a small rust hole next to it anyway, a left hand side lower hinge post section, a repair to the scuttle top and maybe a look at the front inner wheel arches as it looks like they have been badly repaired.
Oh, and for those looking closely, the front is a one piece steel flip front made from welding the front panels together. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep this or not as yet, as a GRP front end would save a fair bit of weight and save me future rust issues.
looks like a fun project
A word of advice?
Dont rush to cover the hole in the boot floor if it's over the tank sender. Fit a small steel plate with a few short self tappers and then when you need to get at the tank unit (You will!) you can simply work through the floor instead of having to drop the tank
Spridget fuel gauges work according to strange semi-logics of their own
The nearside A post need replacing rather than just covering the bad bits, the doors on Spridgets droop when the A post is badly yucky. Plating or filling doesn't put the proper strength back
I'm running a 1293cc A series in mine with a type 9 box
Its nice and quite quick
not everyone's car was a good as your one to begin with, either. have fun!
A word of advice?
Dont rush to cover the hole in the boot floor if it's over the tank sender. Fit a small steel plate with a few short self tappers and then when you need to get at the tank unit (You will!) you can simply work through the floor instead of having to drop the tank
Spridget fuel gauges work according to strange semi-logics of their own
The nearside A post need replacing rather than just covering the bad bits, the doors on Spridgets droop when the A post is badly yucky. Plating or filling doesn't put the proper strength back
I'm running a 1293cc A series in mine with a type 9 box
Its nice and quite quick
not everyone's car was a good as your one to begin with, either. have fun!
Perdu, I don't fancy yours much! 
If mine looked like that I'm not sure I would have taken it on.
That is a good idea about the fuel sender though. I will have to drop the tank to fix the other hole, so I may well just tidy it up and square the hole off, maybe even double up the thickness with a flange to allow me to put some captive nuts on the bottom of the floor. And I was planning on replacing the whole A post as there is a repair needed to the scuttle top too, so I was going to do the lot in one go.
If mine looked like that I'm not sure I would have taken it on.That is a good idea about the fuel sender though. I will have to drop the tank to fix the other hole, so I may well just tidy it up and square the hole off, maybe even double up the thickness with a flange to allow me to put some captive nuts on the bottom of the floor. And I was planning on replacing the whole A post as there is a repair needed to the scuttle top too, so I was going to do the lot in one go.
Edited by Milky Bar Kid on Tuesday 29th June 21:12
Milky Bar Kid said:
Perdu, I don't fancy yours much! If mine looked like that I'm not sure I would have taken it on.
That is a good idea about the fuel sender though. I will have to drop the tank to fix the other hole, so I may well just tidy it up and square the hole off, maybe even double up the thickness with a flange to allow me to put some captive nuts on the bottom of the floor. And I was planning on replacing the whole A post as there is a repair needed to the scuttle top too, so I was going to do the lot in one go.
I dunno If mine looked like that I'm not sure I would have taken it on.That is a good idea about the fuel sender though. I will have to drop the tank to fix the other hole, so I may well just tidy it up and square the hole off, maybe even double up the thickness with a flange to allow me to put some captive nuts on the bottom of the floor. And I was planning on replacing the whole A post as there is a repair needed to the scuttle top too, so I was going to do the lot in one go.
Edited by Milky Bar Kid on Tuesday 29th June 21:12
I rather think she was worth it
perdu said:
Spridget fuel gauges work according to strange semi-logics of their own
Sorry but I disagree, mine is very accurate as a gauge, yes if you have tank, sender, gauge and voltage stabiliser from different years or one or more faulty then yes Mrs Merton will be happy with my remark perdu said:
type 9 box
Not as nice changes on the type 9 box as an original and for more powerful Spridgets I'd agree that first gear is too restrictive (only used that word because I can't remember wether 1st is geared too high or low)I have a shorteh type 9 box with quickshift and shortened lever so perdu make be better with the changes than mine
Edited by SB - Nigel on Wednesday 30th June 20:48
The ratios on my type 9 suit me and the car very well
Though the old A series box was nice but noisy
When I swapped (after the A series box siezed and refused to even let me drive ten feet into my garage) I couldn't understand how the car could suddenly be so quiet
The engine! Blimey I could even hear the engine
My fuel gauge is as accurate as SBs but I spent a whole day with the tank out adjusting the length and swing of the float rod so it showed full when it was and empty (when I have 25 miles left in the tank, as a reserve)
I get to empty and know exactly how far I can go
I drive to The Ace Cafe a few times a year and a full tank takes me from Sutton Coldfield to the North Circ and back as far as Warwick Services on the M40, if I moderate my velocity to less than 90 leptons
I did have problems with different gauges and a buggered up stabiliser too
once upon a time
Now I am the original happy bunny, I love my Midget
Though the old A series box was nice but noisy
When I swapped (after the A series box siezed and refused to even let me drive ten feet into my garage) I couldn't understand how the car could suddenly be so quiet
The engine! Blimey I could even hear the engine
My fuel gauge is as accurate as SBs but I spent a whole day with the tank out adjusting the length and swing of the float rod so it showed full when it was and empty (when I have 25 miles left in the tank, as a reserve)
I get to empty and know exactly how far I can go
I drive to The Ace Cafe a few times a year and a full tank takes me from Sutton Coldfield to the North Circ and back as far as Warwick Services on the M40, if I moderate my velocity to less than 90 leptons
I did have problems with different gauges and a buggered up stabiliser too
once upon a time
Now I am the original happy bunny, I love my Midget
Good news above
My old gauge ran out at a quarter, so I swapped the voltage stabiliser for a modern (semiconductor?) replacement as I'd had this trouble with a previous car but that wasn't the cure this time
A brand new fuel guage and everything is accurate and I can actually see the guage at night instead of a yellow twinkle
90 (k)ph - I'm too easier on my car I usally keep below NSL
Great also that people can have different views without upset
ETA: a friend who remembers many cars in the 60s with non-sychro 1st gear said my previous box had the noisest he could remember hearing he hated to be behind me on runs or tours but the box would probably have went on for years if I didn't desire a 5th gear
My old gauge ran out at a quarter, so I swapped the voltage stabiliser for a modern (semiconductor?) replacement as I'd had this trouble with a previous car but that wasn't the cure this time
A brand new fuel guage and everything is accurate and I can actually see the guage at night instead of a yellow twinkle
90 (k)ph - I'm too easier on my car I usally keep below NSL
Great also that people can have different views without upset
ETA: a friend who remembers many cars in the 60s with non-sychro 1st gear said my previous box had the noisest he could remember hearing he hated to be behind me on runs or tours but the box would probably have went on for years if I didn't desire a 5th gear
Edited by SB - Nigel on Wednesday 30th June 21:04
Hi
That looks an intersting project, hope it goes well for you
Here's my Midget that i've had for over a year, made a start last year then the weather turned and like you, i have to fetch it out of the garage to work on it (no room in there!)..
Here's where the rot is on the O/S front wing, i was pleasantly surprised when i removed the wing as it was very solid behind apart from one place that needed a bit of fabbing..
This one shows the new plate welded in place, the wing is half done and will need a couple more plates cutting and fitting..
Here, i've plated the indicator hole so that i can fit a round indicator lamp unit and made a repair to the bottom of the headlamp aperture..
The welds from inside the wing..
John
That looks an intersting project, hope it goes well for you
Here's my Midget that i've had for over a year, made a start last year then the weather turned and like you, i have to fetch it out of the garage to work on it (no room in there!)..
Here's where the rot is on the O/S front wing, i was pleasantly surprised when i removed the wing as it was very solid behind apart from one place that needed a bit of fabbing..
This one shows the new plate welded in place, the wing is half done and will need a couple more plates cutting and fitting..
Here, i've plated the indicator hole so that i can fit a round indicator lamp unit and made a repair to the bottom of the headlamp aperture..
The welds from inside the wing..
John
Perdu, I do quite like the look of your finished car, but I must admit that I would've turned it down beforehand, as I don't want to be doing loads of bodywork if I can help it. All praise to those with the patience for it though. Also, where did you get your roll bar from? It looks very much like what I'm after for mine. And since I've got the shell in bits, I may as well weld something in rather than bolt it later.
I'm not sure yet what I'm going to do with the electrics as yet, other than it will have the Smiths gauges. I will re-wire the whole car myself though, as I want to make life easier in the future when I come to putting the K series in it.
Does anyone know of a cheap way, other than using the V6 type 9, of getting a more usable 1st gear at all? I don't really fancy paying BGH's prices if I can help it!
I'm not sure yet what I'm going to do with the electrics as yet, other than it will have the Smiths gauges. I will re-wire the whole car myself though, as I want to make life easier in the future when I come to putting the K series in it.
Does anyone know of a cheap way, other than using the V6 type 9, of getting a more usable 1st gear at all? I don't really fancy paying BGH's prices if I can help it!
Milky Bar Kid said:
Does anyone know of a cheap way, other than using the V6 type 9, of getting a more usable 1st gear at all? I don't really fancy paying BGH's prices if I can help it!
Try asking inhttp://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&a...
and
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&a...
Milky Bar Kid said:
Perdu, I do quite like the look of your finished car, but I must admit that I would've turned it down beforehand, as I don't want to be doing loads of bodywork if I can help it. All praise to those with the patience for it though. Also, where did you get your roll bar from? It looks very much like what I'm after for mine. And since I've got the shell in bits, I may as well weld something in rather than bolt it later.
I'm not sure yet what I'm going to do with the electrics as yet, other than it will have the Smiths gauges. I will re-wire the whole car myself though, as I want to make life easier in the future when I come to putting the K series in it.
Does anyone know of a cheap way, other than using the V6 type 9, of getting a more usable 1st gear at all? I don't really fancy paying BGH's prices if I can help it!
It's funny but we really do all have different things we likeI'm not sure yet what I'm going to do with the electrics as yet, other than it will have the Smiths gauges. I will re-wire the whole car myself though, as I want to make life easier in the future when I come to putting the K series in it.
Does anyone know of a cheap way, other than using the V6 type 9, of getting a more usable 1st gear at all? I don't really fancy paying BGH's prices if I can help it!
I hate my rollover bar and only fit it for track day events, but it is simply bolted through so I can whip it out asap after the trackday.
[I saw a Midget without a rollover bar that turned over on track at Marham a couple of years ago, the screen pillars alone are NOT enough protection]
I had the bar second (third? fourth?) hand from a good friend, so I can't tell you whose make it is, sorry.
The type-9 boxes for the V6s are reputed to have a 15mm longer input shaft nose than the Sierra ones. I was advised to cut 15mm off with an angle grinder and tidy up the cut edge with a chamfer by a guy on another thread.
I'll make no promises that he was right, but might be an easy check on another website or two. Maybe even Burton would tell you on the telephone if you asked
I can't see the room inside the bell housing being very different myself, just a longer shaft to suit a different spigot bearing
good luck
A word of advice - buy your Frontline bits from places like MGOC/Moss for their warranty
With your Spridget you could look at joining or taking advice from
MG Owners Club (more about road going cars)
MG Car Club (leans towards track stuff)
Midget and Sprite Club (you already know)
Austin Healy Club (if you don't mind being sneered at)
With your Spridget you could look at joining or taking advice from
MG Owners Club (more about road going cars)
MG Car Club (leans towards track stuff)
Midget and Sprite Club (you already know)
Austin Healy Club (if you don't mind being sneered at)
Edited by SB - Nigel on Sunday 4th July 16:27
Perdu, you're right about the V6 box having a longer input shaft, and yes it can be cut down to fit. I would never have a car like this without a roll bar, as I live out in the sticks and there are too many ditches to not have one!
Nigel, why the advise about not buying direct from Frontline? Do Moss/MGOC get discounts for bulk buying? Thanks for the links too.
Nigel, why the advise about not buying direct from Frontline? Do Moss/MGOC get discounts for bulk buying? Thanks for the links too.
I know it's been a while, and some may have lost interest/forgotten, but I do at last have some updated pics to show.
Things have gone slowly due to it taking a while to sell my 7, needing to fit a new kitchen and deciding to rearrange in the meantime. However, now that I have some money and time spare, I can crack on a bit.
This shows the garage as it is now, with more more storage space, and thus much neater and tidier. I can now sit and work on one side of the at a time inside the garage.
Decided to strip the rear wing and sill front of their motorsport-esque flares, as the LHS one showed way too much filler for my liking. I also had a go at the A pillar too, as I knew this would need work.
This was a bit better than I feared it would be, and the inner wing will need work too.
However, the front end of the sill was in a worse state than I thought:
Looks like this under all the flared bit:
.
Oh well, a new sill panel it is then. I've since noticed dents at the back of the sill and under the A post anyway, so a new one isn't such a surprise really.
Speaking of the A post, I knew it need work, so decided to have a closer look with the wire brush:
This doesn't look too good me thinks. So a little while later, it looked like this. Also note the extent of the filler on the sill. It was pretty much from there forward:
Final inspection puts it as dented up to the blue line, with all the holes having been drilled to help hold the filler on. Just as well there's a repair panel that big.
That's it for today really. I hope to spend a couple of hours a day on Austin, with maybe a bit more at the weekends. The aim is to get the shell done, and then fit the K series which should be on it's way soon. I've gotten one this early on so that when I start to get hacked off with the rust I still have something useful I can go and do, like clean, paint and generally prepare the engine.
If anyone would like more details or pics, please ask. Also, if you'd like less detail, please say too! There's little point me uploading everything if no-one's reading it all.
Things have gone slowly due to it taking a while to sell my 7, needing to fit a new kitchen and deciding to rearrange in the meantime. However, now that I have some money and time spare, I can crack on a bit.
This shows the garage as it is now, with more more storage space, and thus much neater and tidier. I can now sit and work on one side of the at a time inside the garage.
Decided to strip the rear wing and sill front of their motorsport-esque flares, as the LHS one showed way too much filler for my liking. I also had a go at the A pillar too, as I knew this would need work.
This was a bit better than I feared it would be, and the inner wing will need work too.
However, the front end of the sill was in a worse state than I thought:
Looks like this under all the flared bit:
.Oh well, a new sill panel it is then. I've since noticed dents at the back of the sill and under the A post anyway, so a new one isn't such a surprise really.
Speaking of the A post, I knew it need work, so decided to have a closer look with the wire brush:
This doesn't look too good me thinks. So a little while later, it looked like this. Also note the extent of the filler on the sill. It was pretty much from there forward:
Final inspection puts it as dented up to the blue line, with all the holes having been drilled to help hold the filler on. Just as well there's a repair panel that big.
That's it for today really. I hope to spend a couple of hours a day on Austin, with maybe a bit more at the weekends. The aim is to get the shell done, and then fit the K series which should be on it's way soon. I've gotten one this early on so that when I start to get hacked off with the rust I still have something useful I can go and do, like clean, paint and generally prepare the engine.
If anyone would like more details or pics, please ask. Also, if you'd like less detail, please say too! There's little point me uploading everything if no-one's reading it all.
bugger the rest of 'em
even if they arent reading this I'm along with you for the ride
How bad is the innersill plate? It seems a tad fragile at the edges from the pics
Luckily new inner and outers give you a really strong box section when they are remade
And I did mention getting a complete new A-post, when yo ustudy the commplexity of that part not only a screen pillar mount but also the heart of the door hinge sections too If that is wrong your door will always hang loose
That is looking good and the garage?
Aplenty of room in there, wanna borrow MY cramped garage tee shirt
thanks for showing us what stage you are at!
even if they arent reading this I'm along with you for the ride
How bad is the innersill plate? It seems a tad fragile at the edges from the pics
Luckily new inner and outers give you a really strong box section when they are remade
And I did mention getting a complete new A-post, when yo ustudy the commplexity of that part not only a screen pillar mount but also the heart of the door hinge sections too If that is wrong your door will always hang loose
That is looking good and the garage?
Aplenty of room in there, wanna borrow MY cramped garage tee shirt
thanks for showing us what stage you are at!
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