Cheap MGF

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Speed addicted

Original Poster:

5,689 posts

233 months

Saturday 27th March 2010
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I'm thinking about getting an MGF for a bit of summer fun. It would be a second car so practicality is totally un-inportant.
Is £1500-2000 enough to get a good one? Apart from the HG (which should be pretty obvious on a test drive), under floor coolant pipes and general condition of the car is there anything specefic or expensive I should look out for?
I had a go of an auto 1.8, liked the car but hated the gearbox. Is there much of a performance difference between the 1.8 and the VVC that you'd notice on the road? I would also consider the TF, how different are these to drive?
Any extras worth seeking out?
Do the lower seat rails make much of a difference, I'm 6'2" and it's pretty snug for headroom just now.

I'd be using this for sunny weekends when I don't want to use the bikes and it would live in the garage the rest of the time.

hearselover

305 posts

247 months

Saturday 27th March 2010
quotequote all
Speed addicted said:
I'm thinking about getting an MGF for a bit of summer fun. It would be a second car so practicality is totally un-inportant.
Is £1500-2000 enough to get a good one? Apart from the HG (which should be pretty obvious on a test drive), under floor coolant pipes and general condition of the car is there anything specefic or expensive I should look out for?
I had a go of an auto 1.8, liked the car but hated the gearbox. Is there much of a performance difference between the 1.8 and the VVC that you'd notice on the road? I would also consider the TF, how different are these to drive?
Any extras worth seeking out?
Do the lower seat rails make much of a difference, I'm 6'2" and it's pretty snug for headroom just now.

I'd be using this for sunny weekends when I don't want to use the bikes and it would live in the garage the rest of the time.
Thats plenty of money to get a good MGF if you are prepared to travel a little, I paid £750 for my 2000 X vvc one with 57k on the clock (right place at the right time though). Personally I would say avoid the steptronic its an awful gearbox. Yes there is a performance difference between the 1.8 and 1.8 vvc (143bhp) but to be honest if the right car came along and it was either engine I wouldnt worry about it. Not sure about what you mean on space as I fint in mine fine and my frined is 6'5 and he fits in his no problem. As foe extras again if the cars is straight clean and the mechanics are good dont worry what extras it has or what spec the interior is but that said leather is always desirable.

Speed addicted

Original Poster:

5,689 posts

233 months

Sunday 28th March 2010
quotequote all
I'm 6'2" but have a long back and retivley short legs so headroom tends to be a problem. In the MGF my head slightly brushes the roof. In a Jaguar XK8 (for example) I can't get in because of headroom.

PJ3074

281 posts

182 months

Monday 29th March 2010
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A few more points to make in things to look for and differences with 1.8i and VVC

Firstly, goto this website: http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com

It has an excellent FAQs section and Technical and Buyes Guide for when you go look at some examples

- MGF/TF very sensitive to tyre choice so make sure the one you are buying doesn't have "Billy Bongo" tyres
- Toyo Proxes T1Rs, Yokohamma or Bridgestone SO2 is what you want on there.
- 1.8i and 1.8i VVC, main difference is a slightly higher rev range but not as noticeable to 160 Trophy
- The VVC has ABS as Standard and optional on the other, look for the big silver box in the OS front boot
- The VVC has been prone to throwing cambelts!! See above link for VVC Technical bits
- Check the floor pan and sub frame areas for Speed Bump Damage!!!


To F or TF that is the question?

- Personal choice, IMO the "F" is the much prettier looking car, especially the front
- Basically the same car, with a few obvious changes but looks too box like IMO
- If you are buying an "F" go for an MY2000 W-X-Y-51 Plate as lots of improvements made

Whatever you buy regardless of Receipts/Service History.. down the garage and get all the belts, tensioner, fluids and oils replaced and have the cooling system looked at and tested. In addition to the Radiator pipes (these should be changed for aluminium to prevent the corrosion blockages) you need to make sure the 3-way heater pipe hose is good as if it is not secured correctly it can chafe, lose all of the water in an instant and potentially F*** the engine right up!! The coolant should be a Dark Red / Blue / Green Colour - if its just water then move on to the next advert.

With regards to service parts and all ancillary items - buy these yourself from Sussex Classic Car Parts in West Sussex. http://www.sussexclassiccar.co.uk You typically get everything NBD, prices are very good, you can get a free catalogue with a full parts breakdown and at least you know you are getting good quality parts of the correct specification etc. Then just get your local garage to use the parts on the service etc.

Also.. check the Hydro-Gas Suspension is in good order as they can leak and be extremely dangerous and approx cost per corner is £60 for parts alone.

Misc Tips...

- When car is operating temp, the temp gauge should NOT exceed Mid-Point, pref a bit under
- Also the Oil temp gauge should sit at 120C, fraction over in warmer weather but NOT beyond 150C !!!
- Ensure all cooling fans are operational as there are several - Radiator & Engine Bay Areas
- Check for any excessive corrosion around the Slam Panel (front boot)
- Use the Technical Buyers Guide for Everything !!












Speed addicted

Original Poster:

5,689 posts

233 months

Monday 29th March 2010
quotequote all
Thanks for that, lots of good information. That website should come in handy too.

bigbadbikercats

635 posts

214 months

Tuesday 30th March 2010
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Speed addicted said:
Is there much of a performance difference between the 1.8 and the VVC that you'd notice on the road? I would also consider the TF, how different are these to drive?
If you look at the power/torque curves for the 1.8i and VVC engine's they're pretty much identical until the 1.8i's torque starts to flatten out (from memory at about 5.5K or so RPM) while the VVC just keeps pulling harder and harder pretty much right up to the red line (which is significantly higher than the 1.8i). The result of this is that while it's just as tractable and grunty as the 1.8i at the VVC feels like an absolute screamer. It has lower overall gearing to take full advantage of its ability to rev too and as a result both encourages and rewards a rather more, err... "committed" driving style.

If you like to laze around enjoying the sun on your face and the wind in your hair the 1.8i is the one to go for. If you want to play tunes on the gearbox with the tacho needle bouncing off the red line at every gearchange get the VVC.

I had a VVC. I loved it... smile

--
JG

PJ3074

281 posts

182 months

Tuesday 30th March 2010
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If you want the ultimate do the 160 Trophy - my 1.8i feels sooo slow by comparison, but being low and fairly goo handling any version will feel fast down A & B roads, Enjoy !! wink

hearselover

305 posts

247 months

Tuesday 30th March 2010
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Just one more consideration are the brakes. Ive got a 160 ZR and a VVC F, the brakes on the ZR are fantastic compared to the F so if you want to stop then buy a 160 Trophy F.

Edited by hearselover on Tuesday 30th March 16:03

PJ3074

281 posts

182 months

Tuesday 30th March 2010
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Agreed.. the Trophy has the nice big 304mm Discs compared to 240mm and better caliper kit too. However, I have recently upgraded the brakes on my "F" to Drilled/Grooved and Fast Road Pads, which makes a major difference when needing to stop in a hurry. Before, it has been a bit FFFFF UUUUU CCCCC KKKKKKK MEEEEEE

I would also add, if like me you get a standard 1.8i ensure its got the optional ABS as that will help.. but still using standard sizes of 240mm some better discs/pads will make things more confident. You can get the discs off Ebay for like £140 complete - see link http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-MGF-DRILLED-GROOVED-BR...


Speed addicted

Original Poster:

5,689 posts

233 months

Tuesday 30th March 2010
quotequote all
I did fid the brakes a bit lacking, but the BMW brakes tend to be quite sharp so didn't think anything about it. I could always upgrade them with the fast road pads.

This car will only really be a toy and it's for when I just want to go for a thrash as the X5 is sometimes a bit too refined.
I'll look more for the VVC. The trophy cars seem to be quite a bit more expensive.

Is milage much of a problem? It dosn't really bother me (unlike rust) but if there are more likely probelms I'll try to go for lower milage cars.

PJ3074

281 posts

182 months

Thursday 1st April 2010
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Yes, Trophy models still carry a premium and its £3K-£5K... so VVC will be best bet. If you search around you shoud get a reasonable mileage model. If you click on my Nic, you will see my 1.8i which came with optional full black leather, ABS and the black pearl paint, had 75K on the clock and I paid £1,900 for it.

If you can find an Abingdon Special Edition model they are very nice in Black. As you get two-tone black/red leather inside and a very dark red hood, special alloys and other features too. Should be able to get a 1999 example for £2K(ish)... have a trawl of Ebay / Autotrader / PH Classifieds for examples.

The main thing with any car is that if mileage is up like 100K, then as long as it has been maintained correctly, belts done and the HG and Coolant system issues fixed then you should be fine. There are not many cars like MGF/TF that you can have alot of fun for like very little outlay and as many parts are standard Rover parts bin materials ongoing costs are no different to say servicing a 45 or suchlike as the K-Series was used all over the range.

When you get one, it will be good if you can put some pics on this thread so we can see what you bought matey! Good Luck to You wink

PJ3074

281 posts

182 months

Thursday 1st April 2010
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Not sure where these are in relation to you, location wise... but here are x3 nice looking examples right here on PH classifieds for £2K marker... there is even one that is VVC but has been made to look like the Trophy Model in Red.

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1599488.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1581313.htm
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1541163.htm

Speed addicted

Original Poster:

5,689 posts

233 months

Thursday 1st April 2010
quotequote all
I'm in Aberdeen, but will travel when I can to get the right car. It may not be instant though, my wife seems to be having trouble understanding my need for two cars and three bikes (she has a car too!).

I'll keep an eye out for a VVC that's local ish and go from there.

Thatnks for the help folks.

forsure

2,132 posts

274 months

Thursday 1st April 2010
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PJ3074 said:
If you can find an Abingdon Special Edition model they are very nice in Black. As you get two-tone black/red leather inside and a very dark red hood, special alloys and other features too. Should be able to get a 1999 example for £2K(ish)... have a trawl of Ebay / Autotrader / PH Classifieds for examples.
What you describe sounds to me like the 'Anniversary' model. I thought the (slightly earlier) 'Abingdon' was non-metallic BRG with tan leather and hood, wood dash trim and 16" alloys.
Whatever, they're both rare and desirable - and I'd suggest that good ones may hold their value better as they get older.

To the OP: Worth noting that Mk2s ('00 on - except 1.6s) have a better sound system - big speakers behind the seats.

porka944s

378 posts

183 months

Thursday 1st April 2010
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lot of good stuff on here, i had an r reg 1.8vvc, great car till i had to trade in as the gasket was going, i stuck a set of T1Rs on, a bit of nice kit and i loved it, one of the most purely fun drives ive had, so go for it, only unusual problem i had was the gas suspension leaked and then it was so low at wore out all the ball joints. serious fun though but gutted when my mate kept up in his birds yaris vvti.

forsure

2,132 posts

274 months

Thursday 1st April 2010
quotequote all
porka944s said:
only unusual problem i had was the gas suspension leaked and then it was so low at wore out all the ball joints.
Not that unusual; most 'F's ride too low, just as most Metros did. It seems that only the most fastidious owners know that checking/replenishing the Hydragas system should be part of routine servicing.

hearselover

305 posts

247 months

Saturday 3rd April 2010
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Speed addicted said:
I'm in Aberdeen, but will travel when I can to get the right car. It may not be instant though, my wife seems to be having trouble understanding my need for two cars and three bikes (she has a car too!).

I'll keep an eye out for a VVC that's local ish and go from there.

Thatnks for the help folks.
You will find once you get past 3 cars and 3 bikes they seem to stop caring and just let you get on with it (well mine has anyway).

Speed addicted

Original Poster:

5,689 posts

233 months

Sunday 4th April 2010
quotequote all
I may have got past the opposition by pointing out that we're spending more on flights for one holiday this year than I intend to spend on the car!
Ah well, forgiveness is easier to obtain than permission.

She does seem to be getting used to me taking in bikes and cars like stray dogs.

Speed addicted

Original Poster:

5,689 posts

233 months

Monday 5th April 2010
quotequote all
How much hassle is changing the cable to open the bonnet? Or boot, the bit at the front without an engine in it.
There's one quite near me but apparently the cable has snapped, can you get into the front bit without it?

hearselover

305 posts

247 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
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If the bonnet is open then changing the cable is stragight forward, if its shut then depending what year car it s and if it has the anti theft plate over the bonent latch then it can be at best a pain to a real nightmare.

Ash