Just bought a ZT - A few questions
Discussion
Hi chaps, I've finally managed to find a decent ZT (looked at 5 others before this) and decided to take the plunge! It's a late 2002, low miles, 190 in pretty good condition except for a few light bumper scuffs and a thin service history. The lack of service history was reflected in the price though and I decided to buy on condition more than anything else.
Anyway, it needs a good service so a few recommendations would be nice;
Needs new front discs and pads, basic EBC stuff OK?
Oil change, which filter for the 190 and what's the recommended oil and quantity?
When do the plugs need changing and what should I go for?
Anything else I should do on a home service other than the air filter?
The other thing is the cambelt which I understand is 90k or 6 years. This car has done <50k but is 7 years old and has no record of it being done. Am I walking on thin ice by not having it replaced or will I be safe enough for a few months?
Cheers!
Edited to say; Touch wood and fingers crossed that it's a good one! It felt very tight to drive and with a little bit of TLC should be a nice little car.
Anyway, it needs a good service so a few recommendations would be nice;
Needs new front discs and pads, basic EBC stuff OK?
Oil change, which filter for the 190 and what's the recommended oil and quantity?
When do the plugs need changing and what should I go for?
Anything else I should do on a home service other than the air filter?
The other thing is the cambelt which I understand is 90k or 6 years. This car has done <50k but is 7 years old and has no record of it being done. Am I walking on thin ice by not having it replaced or will I be safe enough for a few months?
Cheers!
Edited to say; Touch wood and fingers crossed that it's a good one! It felt very tight to drive and with a little bit of TLC should be a nice little car.
Edited by simonej on Wednesday 10th February 13:08
simonej said:
Hi chaps, I've finally managed to find a decent ZT (looked at 5 others before this) and decided to take the plunge! It's a late 2002, low miles, 190 in pretty good condition except for a few light bumper scuffs and a thin service history. The lack of service history was reflected in the price though and I decided to buy on condition more than anything else.
Anyway, it needs a good service so a few recommendations would be nice;
Needs new front discs and pads, basic EBC stuff OK?
Oil change, which filter for the 190 and what's the recommended oil and quantity?
When do the plugs need changing and what should I go for?
Anything else I should do on a home service other than the air filter?
The other thing is the cambelt which I understand is 90k or 6 years. This car has done <50k but is 7 years old and has no record of it being done. Am I walking on thin ice by not having it replaced or will I be safe enough for a few months?
Cheers!
Edited to say; Touch wood and fingers crossed that it's a good one! It felt very tight to drive and with a little bit of TLC should be a nice little car.
HiAnyway, it needs a good service so a few recommendations would be nice;
Needs new front discs and pads, basic EBC stuff OK?
Oil change, which filter for the 190 and what's the recommended oil and quantity?
When do the plugs need changing and what should I go for?
Anything else I should do on a home service other than the air filter?
The other thing is the cambelt which I understand is 90k or 6 years. This car has done <50k but is 7 years old and has no record of it being done. Am I walking on thin ice by not having it replaced or will I be safe enough for a few months?
Cheers!
Edited to say; Touch wood and fingers crossed that it's a good one! It felt very tight to drive and with a little bit of TLC should be a nice little car.
Edited by simonej on Wednesday 10th February 13:08
Congratulations and I hope it turns out to be a good one.
From memory it takes about 5 1/2 litres of 10w40 and the rover part number for the filter is LPW100160. Again from memory its 60k for the plugs and I personaly prefer Bosch. Dont risk the belts going get them done and also have the waterpump done at the same time, the pumps only cost about £40 - £50 and wont cost any more in labour while the cam belts are getting done. Just as a rough guide to have the belts and waterpump replaced expect to pay about £300 from a garage that knows what they are doing. The belts could last you another 5 years but its a risk to take and a hell of a mess to sort out if they go, ive seen too many 75/ZT's in scrap yards because of snapped belts and needing new engines.
Changing the cam belts is a big job, there are three to change and a lot of dismantling to do. Don't see why you couldn't DIY but I elected to pay £300. If you shop around there are plenty of garages willing to do it for £600!
The belts on my 2002 190 at lasted to 8 years, 65,000, no problem. Not sure how close that was cutting it...
The belts on my 2002 190 at lasted to 8 years, 65,000, no problem. Not sure how close that was cutting it...
Thanks for the input.
Picked her up today and I have to say it's a pretty decent machine for 2k! It's a little rough around the edges but with some TLC I reckon it should look pretty smart. The handling is fantastic and the engine has a fairly sweet note to it!
Anyway, I've ordered 6L of Silkolene 10w/40, air and oil filters and discs and pads all around for 200 quid all in. It's gonna be a busy weekend!
Also just in the process of calling round for cam-belt quotes. If I don't get it done I'll constantlly be worrying about it!
Picked her up today and I have to say it's a pretty decent machine for 2k! It's a little rough around the edges but with some TLC I reckon it should look pretty smart. The handling is fantastic and the engine has a fairly sweet note to it!
Anyway, I've ordered 6L of Silkolene 10w/40, air and oil filters and discs and pads all around for 200 quid all in. It's gonna be a busy weekend!
Also just in the process of calling round for cam-belt quotes. If I don't get it done I'll constantlly be worrying about it!
Personally I wouldn't bother with the EBC pads. I tried them on a trackday and went back to OEM pads which were actually better on track and did not fade at all - and I REALLY use the brakes! Since then I've done 5 or 6 trackdays in my 190 (120,000 miles on the clock) and as you say, the handling is exceptionally good. Some of my trackday vids are on Youtube (search davc001a).
Check the VIS motors in the inlet plenum and make sure they are operating properly otherwise you'll be on reduced performance. A good 190 rips through 4000-7000 revs with no lethargy or breathlesness, but if a VIS motor has gone it will feel flat.
Have a look over on xPower forum - there are lots of very knowledgeable people on there and good recommendations for MGR specialists (I used the MG Owners Club workshop near Cambridge for my belts - very professional, excellent workshop and know what they are doing).
Check the VIS motors in the inlet plenum and make sure they are operating properly otherwise you'll be on reduced performance. A good 190 rips through 4000-7000 revs with no lethargy or breathlesness, but if a VIS motor has gone it will feel flat.
Have a look over on xPower forum - there are lots of very knowledgeable people on there and good recommendations for MGR specialists (I used the MG Owners Club workshop near Cambridge for my belts - very professional, excellent workshop and know what they are doing).
I don't know what the rears are like, but the front pads are a complete b
d and a half to change!
To change the rear pads on my 260 - which has different AP Racing calipers to the 190 - takes about 15 minutes a side, roughly 13 of which is jacking the thing up, removing the wheels and then putting them back on again afterwards.
The fronts, on the other hand - which are the same as the 190, albeit mounted the other way around - are a different picture. For a start, you have to take the calipers off to remove the pads, then, once you've done that, and got the old pads out, you need to get the new ones in. There is absolutely zero tolerance on this! The pads are spring-mounted, which doesn't help, then once you've pushed them out as far as they can possibly go, you'll find out that the gap is still a couple of mm short of the width of the disc!
bdy, bd things. Took for bloody ever!
d and a half to change!To change the rear pads on my 260 - which has different AP Racing calipers to the 190 - takes about 15 minutes a side, roughly 13 of which is jacking the thing up, removing the wheels and then putting them back on again afterwards.
The fronts, on the other hand - which are the same as the 190, albeit mounted the other way around - are a different picture. For a start, you have to take the calipers off to remove the pads, then, once you've done that, and got the old pads out, you need to get the new ones in. There is absolutely zero tolerance on this! The pads are spring-mounted, which doesn't help, then once you've pushed them out as far as they can possibly go, you'll find out that the gap is still a couple of mm short of the width of the disc!
b
dy, bd things. Took for bloody ever!Pop on here. www.the75andztclub.co.uk Loads of really good info ,very friendly and helpful
One tip for freshenning up is a to "dequeask" the doors.
Wash the car, wash door shuts and around the windows and dry off.
Get some spray silicone spray and spray and wipe into the door rubber seals and the window seals.
Suddenly there are no squeaks or rattles any more (worked on my 2003 ZTT!)
HTH
Spunagain
Wash the car, wash door shuts and around the windows and dry off.
Get some spray silicone spray and spray and wipe into the door rubber seals and the window seals.
Suddenly there are no squeaks or rattles any more (worked on my 2003 ZTT!)
HTH
Spunagain
Spunagain said:
One tip for freshenning up is a to "dequeask" the doors.
Wash the car, wash door shuts and around the windows and dry off.
Get some spray silicone spray and spray and wipe into the door rubber seals and the window seals.
Suddenly there are no squeaks or rattles any more (worked on my 2003 ZTT!)
HTH
Spunagain
And into the handles themselves to stop them jamming shut!A common prob.Wash the car, wash door shuts and around the windows and dry off.
Get some spray silicone spray and spray and wipe into the door rubber seals and the window seals.
Suddenly there are no squeaks or rattles any more (worked on my 2003 ZTT!)
HTH
Spunagain
Thanks for the advice chaps. Well I managed to replace the cracked dash today (new one supplied by the seller) and attach 4 or 5 bits of trim that were hanging off or had come off, so the interior is almost done.
Vis motors - a bit beyond my technical capabilities by the sound of it but I reckon it's pulling fairly smoothly through the rev range with a little extra kick around 3500rpm. It doesn't feel overly quick but the numbers come up swift enough.
Brakes, well they will probably involve lots of swearing but I'm used to using force on them! Had to take a sledge hammer to my Mum's Audi last month!
One last thing, I have a bit of wind noise coming from the driver's door at speeds above 50. Is there any way of rejuvenating the seals or will they need replacing? I've already tried the silicone spray as someone has suggested but it's still a bit 'blowy'.
Well I managed to replace the cracked dash today (new one supplied by the seller) and attach 4 or 5 bits of trim that were hanging off or had come off, so the interior is almost done.Vis motors - a bit beyond my technical capabilities by the sound of it but I reckon it's pulling fairly smoothly through the rev range with a little extra kick around 3500rpm. It doesn't feel overly quick but the numbers come up swift enough.
Brakes, well they will probably involve lots of swearing but I'm used to using force on them! Had to take a sledge hammer to my Mum's Audi last month!
One last thing, I have a bit of wind noise coming from the driver's door at speeds above 50. Is there any way of rejuvenating the seals or will they need replacing? I've already tried the silicone spray as someone has suggested but it's still a bit 'blowy'.
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