Buying an MG ZT what should I look for?
Discussion
Wife has just sold the Boxster and was going to buy her old MGF back (wired how it appeared on ebay the same day the Boxster sold). We spotted the MG ZT and thought an estate would be more practical. Our Jumbuck and Chimarea only have 2 seats each, so buying another 2 seater again would be daft.
Apart from usual checking the service history, oil, water, tyre, etc, what else should I be looking for specific to the ZT? Its the 1.8 I'll be going to see, but there are some v6 alternatives close by. Presumably they don't leak like the MGF
Apart from usual checking the service history, oil, water, tyre, etc, what else should I be looking for specific to the ZT? Its the 1.8 I'll be going to see, but there are some v6 alternatives close by. Presumably they don't leak like the MGF
Rust? I've never seen a ZT or 75 with rust so far... and my mate has a 1999 model. It's simply not an issue, dunno where you got that from.
The 1.8 model's weak point is head gasket, but provided it's serviced properly and the coolant checked for leaks regularly, you can avoid problems by attending to things straight away. The V6 is more reliable but beware if it's due a cambelt change - these are expensive. The diesel unit is from BMW, and it's very good, relaible and with a chain, so no cambelt issues. Manual models - watch the clutch, again quite expensive to fix as you usually replace the master and slave cylinder at the same time. Automatics are reliable and smooth.
Had my ZT for 8 months now (2004 CDTi auto) and had no problems with it at all.
The 1.8 model's weak point is head gasket, but provided it's serviced properly and the coolant checked for leaks regularly, you can avoid problems by attending to things straight away. The V6 is more reliable but beware if it's due a cambelt change - these are expensive. The diesel unit is from BMW, and it's very good, relaible and with a chain, so no cambelt issues. Manual models - watch the clutch, again quite expensive to fix as you usually replace the master and slave cylinder at the same time. Automatics are reliable and smooth.
Had my ZT for 8 months now (2004 CDTi auto) and had no problems with it at all.
Hi
When you get to it turn on the engne and air con and make sure the rad fan is running. If not either it is buggered (old version) or if it is a newer one it needs a new slow speed resistor. First is either £400 using Xpart OEM part or £170 using a Kenlowe replacement + fitting took me 6 hours to fit the Kenlowe but could be less for a pro!).
Ask if the Fuel filter clip has been added. I have fitted the clips to both my ZT's one which had the filter split and the car refused to start the other I did as a precaution. 20 minute job and a 5er for the clip.
Check under the carpets for leaks at the fron if has a sunroof and at the back if it is an estate.
All I can think of.
Good luck!
When you get to it turn on the engne and air con and make sure the rad fan is running. If not either it is buggered (old version) or if it is a newer one it needs a new slow speed resistor. First is either £400 using Xpart OEM part or £170 using a Kenlowe replacement + fitting took me 6 hours to fit the Kenlowe but could be less for a pro!).
Ask if the Fuel filter clip has been added. I have fitted the clips to both my ZT's one which had the filter split and the car refused to start the other I did as a precaution. 20 minute job and a 5er for the clip.
Check under the carpets for leaks at the fron if has a sunroof and at the back if it is an estate.
All I can think of.
Good luck!
Further to this topic I am also looking to by a ZTT 02/04 and have noticed the 2k difference in petrol/diesel cars I know the CD is a BMW engine but does it warrent the massive difference in a car usually the petrol is lower miles, obviously there is the economy as well, but is the petrol not a great engine?
best engine is the bmw diesel, tuneable to 160 bhp for about £400.
1.8 non turbo is a bit flat for size of car but still fun.
1.8 turbo 160 bhp ..nice unit plenty of power.
2.5 v6 190 bhp.... lovely noise and goes well
no rust issues as far as i know.
i have owned three , last one was the 4.6 mustang engine one... similar in power to the chimaera i now own.
service history always a must.
handling is excellent.
i will probably have another one after the tvr....
1.8 non turbo is a bit flat for size of car but still fun.
1.8 turbo 160 bhp ..nice unit plenty of power.
2.5 v6 190 bhp.... lovely noise and goes well
no rust issues as far as i know.
i have owned three , last one was the 4.6 mustang engine one... similar in power to the chimaera i now own.
service history always a must.
handling is excellent.
i will probably have another one after the tvr....
Edited by joncon on Friday 3rd July 20:46
mgztt said:
Further to this topic I am also looking to by a ZTT 02/04 and have noticed the 2k difference in petrol/diesel cars I know the CD is a BMW engine but does it warrent the massive difference in a car usually the petrol is lower miles, obviously there is the economy as well, but is the petrol not a great engine?
Not simply because it's a BMW engine, it's the diesel scenario. Unlike most Car Enthusiasts, to many "Average Joe" or, Josephine type car consumers, Diesel engines are the way to go. Thus more demand so they are easier to sell for those who have fuel consumption high up or at the top of their list of 'must haves' when buying a car. Easier to sell means nice little earners means higher prices ... in the UK.When I casually mentioned I was thinking of selling my old, ( M-Reg) but very tidy Rover 600 Diesel, I had several immediate enquiries and the first to view paid cash and drove away well pleased. I paid a few quid to put an advert here on PH but, I need not have bothered ~ the car was sold almost before that ad appeared. My point to point journey times in the R600 Diesel were not that much different to those in the much faster and more powerful Rover 600 Petrol turbos ~ which I prefer to drive by far ~ but, downside being higher fuel consumption as that boost is infectious ~ The Diesel is far more frugal with the fuel even with lots of foot to the floor stuff....... considerably so ....
Having said all that, my next serious car purchase will be an MG ZT V8. It will not be my daily driver though ... The R600 turbos will be... perfectly adequate for my day to day driving needs.
..
I would say there are two main things to look of for... as mentioned before...
1. The rad fans have a tendancy to stop working, and then if you have anything more than a stump on the bottom of your right leg the head gasket goes quickly. 8/10 times though this is the fan cut of switch packing up, and it just never tells the fan to switch on, so not always really costly.
2. The head gasket again. Check the coolant, from memory it should be OAT (Orange coolant), check that it is clear orange color, like orangeade. If it is slighty brown/reddish then the head gasket is going or there is a leak somewhere in the system which spells ££££ for a new head gasket.
MGs I think are very fun, they do have a tendancy to go wrong from time to time. I find its norally things like the electric window regulators pack up rather than engine faults though. On that point... if the windows are electric wind them all down and up. If when you wind them down they make a bit of a clunking noise you may find the arms on the regulator are giving up. About £300 to fix.
Good luck.
1. The rad fans have a tendancy to stop working, and then if you have anything more than a stump on the bottom of your right leg the head gasket goes quickly. 8/10 times though this is the fan cut of switch packing up, and it just never tells the fan to switch on, so not always really costly.
2. The head gasket again. Check the coolant, from memory it should be OAT (Orange coolant), check that it is clear orange color, like orangeade. If it is slighty brown/reddish then the head gasket is going or there is a leak somewhere in the system which spells ££££ for a new head gasket.
MGs I think are very fun, they do have a tendancy to go wrong from time to time. I find its norally things like the electric window regulators pack up rather than engine faults though. On that point... if the windows are electric wind them all down and up. If when you wind them down they make a bit of a clunking noise you may find the arms on the regulator are giving up. About £300 to fix.
Good luck.
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