MGB Single battery conversion ...?
Discussion
Hi Guys
I am doing a conservative restoration on a friends 1970 MGB thats been laid up for 15 years
. Both 6v batteries have had it, so I would like to put in a single 12v battery which will fit into one of the holes as well as offering good capacity for starting. Anyone done this conversion and can point me in the direction of the correct battery would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
Chris
I am doing a conservative restoration on a friends 1970 MGB thats been laid up for 15 years
. Both 6v batteries have had it, so I would like to put in a single 12v battery which will fit into one of the holes as well as offering good capacity for starting. Anyone done this conversion and can point me in the direction of the correct battery would be appreciatedThanks in advance
Chris
Just get yourself to a motor accessory shop and purchase the largest battery that will fit in the hole, A vauxhall astra sized one has the right terminals and is an easy fit, however you can get far bigger in there, there isn't a hard and fast rule, just find one that is a good fit to avoid it rocking around.
Agree with above get correct
physical size
terminals
charging and cranking rates
A chap I know done this 15+ years ago as he had a mate at a quickfit type place and they went thro' the catalogues
Have a look on the net and local directories you'd be suprised how many battery specialist are around
You could also look at marine/aircraft style batteries that hold there standing charge for years and are a small physical size I was thinking of fitting one to a Westie once
Droping to one battery instead of two is a very good idea
physical size
terminals
charging and cranking rates
A chap I know done this 15+ years ago as he had a mate at a quickfit type place and they went thro' the catalogues
Have a look on the net and local directories you'd be suprised how many battery specialist are around
You could also look at marine/aircraft style batteries that hold there standing charge for years and are a small physical size I was thinking of fitting one to a Westie once
Droping to one battery instead of two is a very good idea
Mines a 1980 BGT, with the single 12v battery, currently having an absolute 'mare trying to get it out of the battery bin as it is indeed a snug fit!
Off to get a couple of terminal clamps to connect via (non-conducting!) strap to create a handy bolt on handle.
All because I forgot to connect the battery conditioner when I parked it up for winter...
Off to get a couple of terminal clamps to connect via (non-conducting!) strap to create a handy bolt on handle.
All because I forgot to connect the battery conditioner when I parked it up for winter...
SB - Nigel said:
Sway said:
when I parked it up for winter...
Why would you say and do a thing like that, you're only reinforcing the B owner stereotype
What not drive it sometimes in the winter, there are many salt-free days and the car will benefit from more regular use
Just a thought
You are right though, and I join you in
B'S BENEFIT FROM REGULAR USE, EVEN THROUGH WINTER! ;-) To be fair, it's actually about to be stripped to bare metal, modified lightly and semi tastefully, then a Honda s2000 engine is going in, along with independent rear suspension, roll cage and bigger brakes!
Your typical B owner I am not
Hopefully it will look like this (also posted by me in another thread):
although retaining the webasto roof, and with a two tone scheme.
Edited by Sway on Thursday 12th June 20:20
Glad you're another believer in regular use and also not a stereotypical B owner
Hopefully, at least, just after the MOT it should have been safe for use if not tidy or spot mechanically
Each to their own but one of the benefits of a B is the more low revving torqey engine especially compared to a S2000
I had a S2000 for a sort time but could not really get used to its high revving nature, whilst it would (just about) pull from 2,000 revs I had to get it to around at least 6,000 -7,000 to get it really going and its stated power band is IIRC 7,500 to 8,300 where it's designed to be used
Keeping it on the boil on a tours didn't suit me so I sold the car after a few months and got another "classic"
But good luck to you, get the car done and drive it as often as possible
Hopefully, at least, just after the MOT it should have been safe for use if not tidy or spot mechanically
Each to their own but one of the benefits of a B is the more low revving torqey engine especially compared to a S2000
I had a S2000 for a sort time but could not really get used to its high revving nature, whilst it would (just about) pull from 2,000 revs I had to get it to around at least 6,000 -7,000 to get it really going and its stated power band is IIRC 7,500 to 8,300 where it's designed to be used
Keeping it on the boil on a tours didn't suit me so I sold the car after a few months and got another "classic"
But good luck to you, get the car done and drive it as often as possible
Nigel,
Few people have said about the engine not suiting the nature of the b, but I'm thinking along the lines of a grown-up's
version of a bike engined midget.
Although you are the first doubter to have actually owned a S2000 yourself...
My reasoning is that it would have enough torque based on the b's lighter weight, ideally I'd like a car benign enough that I can start to roll without using any throttle, although this is not essential.
Surely a S2000 lump has more torque at 2000 rpm than a b series 1800?
Sam
and it most certainly getting underway, bodyshop will be giving me quote next week! Although it won't be next year til they can start.
Few people have said about the engine not suiting the nature of the b, but I'm thinking along the lines of a grown-up's
version of a bike engined midget. Although you are the first doubter to have actually owned a S2000 yourself...
My reasoning is that it would have enough torque based on the b's lighter weight, ideally I'd like a car benign enough that I can start to roll without using any throttle, although this is not essential.
Surely a S2000 lump has more torque at 2000 rpm than a b series 1800?
Sam
and it most certainly getting underway, bodyshop will be giving me quote next week! Although it won't be next year til they can start.
Ummmm, I've not got any facts or figures to hand but generally 60's cars are lighter than modern cars, not so many electric this'n'thats and safety bits
A GT is heavier than roadster of course
S2000 at 2,000 revs more torque than a B, no idea but I do know that a B driver would feel comfortable at that and a S2000 driver would not, and that figures don't tell the whole story
The S2000 engine is? (was) in a couple of Civics putting out less power, those may be slighty more suitable but I doubt it as they are still designed for high revs but not quite as high as the S2000
The pre-facelift S2000 engine and car has a sharper (more tense) feel to it, I know this as a freind has one and I drove both cars one day to compare
The very early S2000 cars are supposed to even more intense, probably what attracted the bikers to them
I (long weekend) toured in my S2000 once in North England and once in France as well as varios club runs so i did get to know the car and the engine is set up for high revs (thirsty car too)
As you've probably seen from my profile I've had a standard BGT, V8 r/b roadster (when they were unpopular with the "proper" MG crowd) and a couple of Spridgets (neither "real" as they were rebodied and re-engined - so basically kit or custom cars for the unimaginative, like me) so I personally prefer the older style engines and gearing
Bike engined cars like a Midget (or Westie) would not suit me so my opinion may not be the best for your enquiry, if you like modern cars and engines then you'll love the S2000 engine but would the rest of the car (a BGT may be better than a roadster), how much of the original equipment and fitting would you have to change to take those constant high revs?
Try test driving a S2000 then a good quality B and see what you think (unless you can find a S2000 engined B owner to ask)
I like custom cars so applaud any one who builds something different, good luck
A GT is heavier than roadster of course
S2000 at 2,000 revs more torque than a B, no idea but I do know that a B driver would feel comfortable at that and a S2000 driver would not, and that figures don't tell the whole story
The S2000 engine is? (was) in a couple of Civics putting out less power, those may be slighty more suitable but I doubt it as they are still designed for high revs but not quite as high as the S2000
The pre-facelift S2000 engine and car has a sharper (more tense) feel to it, I know this as a freind has one and I drove both cars one day to compare
The very early S2000 cars are supposed to even more intense, probably what attracted the bikers to them
I (long weekend) toured in my S2000 once in North England and once in France as well as varios club runs so i did get to know the car and the engine is set up for high revs (thirsty car too)
As you've probably seen from my profile I've had a standard BGT, V8 r/b roadster (when they were unpopular with the "proper" MG crowd) and a couple of Spridgets (neither "real" as they were rebodied and re-engined - so basically kit or custom cars for the unimaginative, like me) so I personally prefer the older style engines and gearing
Bike engined cars like a Midget (or Westie) would not suit me so my opinion may not be the best for your enquiry, if you like modern cars and engines then you'll love the S2000 engine but would the rest of the car (a BGT may be better than a roadster), how much of the original equipment and fitting would you have to change to take those constant high revs?
Try test driving a S2000 then a good quality B and see what you think (unless you can find a S2000 engined B owner to ask)
I like custom cars so applaud any one who builds something different, good luck
Yes thanks guys, battery in. The one from Halfrauds has a lifting handle so goes in and out ok for maintenece. Car starts fine so the battery seems to have sufficient capacity for the job. Started on the long job of sorting out the electrics as the loom is full of previous bodges and joints. Balancing and tweaks to the carbs are next for a smoother tickover.
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