Discussion
Hello everyone.
I'm hoping you guys can help me. Ive never owned a classic car before(ive only been driving 5 years). I'm looking at buying a MGB roadster as a second car, partly because i think they are a beautiful car and also being young it could work out cheaper than buying a similar newish car. As you have probably guess im totally clueless. I would very much like a chrome bumper car, however they are alot more expensive. I see for a £1000 you can upgrade the rubber work for chrome and im not afraid of the work, i can do it slow time. Basically what i wanna know is what are the pros and cons of each model as i heard that the older cars don't have a syncromesh on the gearbox. As i'm 23 and clearly don't know i've been born i really don't like the idea of this. I'm really looking to be using this car every day. I hope i don't get chucked out for asking obvious questions but i don't want to buy anything i would regret.
Cheers
Danny
I'm hoping you guys can help me. Ive never owned a classic car before(ive only been driving 5 years). I'm looking at buying a MGB roadster as a second car, partly because i think they are a beautiful car and also being young it could work out cheaper than buying a similar newish car. As you have probably guess im totally clueless. I would very much like a chrome bumper car, however they are alot more expensive. I see for a £1000 you can upgrade the rubber work for chrome and im not afraid of the work, i can do it slow time. Basically what i wanna know is what are the pros and cons of each model as i heard that the older cars don't have a syncromesh on the gearbox. As i'm 23 and clearly don't know i've been born i really don't like the idea of this. I'm really looking to be using this car every day. I hope i don't get chucked out for asking obvious questions but i don't want to buy anything i would regret.
Cheers
Danny
The only B's without synchro on first were the very early cars. You don't want one anyway, as while they are the prettiest and definitely give the ultimate B experience they are also the most costly to maintain, least pleasurable to drive, and most agricultural (I'm not pulling them down by the way I love them, but not an ideal first classic).
You would struggle to do much better for a first MGB than a rubber bumpered late car, cheap, the most refined car they produced, very reliable when fettled, you should expect to be able to use one as a daily driver, I do. And they do not handle badly as people suggest, although the bumpers being heavy do blunt performance. However they are not slow, will cruise at 70, will keep up with traffic, and will pull 100 with ease (my 1950 pulled 125 with ease
).
I wouldn't even change the bumpers at first, don't do what most people do and throw money at the wrong place, get one, drive it, enjoy it, spend the money on making the car good and reliable, THEN consider changing the bumpers after a year or so, but you would be better off selling your now well fettled tidy B and buying an earlier car (or even upgrading to a C or BV8 or one of the many other options) as I certainly wouldn't consider buying in a converted car, I only deal in straight original cars, I've broken 2 BGT's this month, both of which have been partway converted to chrome, both cars would have restored and sold as both were mostly done, but they had been messed with so much they were only good to break. Crying shame.
And of course shameless plug, if you want a car come and talk to me.
You would struggle to do much better for a first MGB than a rubber bumpered late car, cheap, the most refined car they produced, very reliable when fettled, you should expect to be able to use one as a daily driver, I do. And they do not handle badly as people suggest, although the bumpers being heavy do blunt performance. However they are not slow, will cruise at 70, will keep up with traffic, and will pull 100 with ease (my 1950 pulled 125 with ease
).I wouldn't even change the bumpers at first, don't do what most people do and throw money at the wrong place, get one, drive it, enjoy it, spend the money on making the car good and reliable, THEN consider changing the bumpers after a year or so, but you would be better off selling your now well fettled tidy B and buying an earlier car (or even upgrading to a C or BV8 or one of the many other options) as I certainly wouldn't consider buying in a converted car, I only deal in straight original cars, I've broken 2 BGT's this month, both of which have been partway converted to chrome, both cars would have restored and sold as both were mostly done, but they had been messed with so much they were only good to break. Crying shame.
And of course shameless plug, if you want a car come and talk to me.
If you want a chrome bumper car because of the looks either buy a decent rubber bumper converted one or try and get one post 1965 and pre 1975 which will have been fitted with the 5 bearing engine (doesn't rev quite as well, but much much more reliable) and will also have the overdrive fitted (don't buy a B without it)and will still be chrome bumper as standard.
Wire wheels look lovely but are high maintenance - minilites do it for me and just need a standard weekly wash.
The seats, instruments, heaters, gloveboxes all got better through development on rubber bumper cars, although steering wheels on the rubber bumper cars are frankly gopping but easy (ish)to change.
Remember this is not like buying a normal car. They can look lovely on the outside but completely rotten underneath, so take along someone who knows what they're looking for and where to find it. Mileage is irrelevant (largely). You're looking for receipts for work done, photos if poss, someone who clearly enjoys the car and has looked after it and buy the best one you can find. There are tons and tons of them out there - take your time. Condition is everything.
Wire wheels look lovely but are high maintenance - minilites do it for me and just need a standard weekly wash.
The seats, instruments, heaters, gloveboxes all got better through development on rubber bumper cars, although steering wheels on the rubber bumper cars are frankly gopping but easy (ish)to change.
Remember this is not like buying a normal car. They can look lovely on the outside but completely rotten underneath, so take along someone who knows what they're looking for and where to find it. Mileage is irrelevant (largely). You're looking for receipts for work done, photos if poss, someone who clearly enjoys the car and has looked after it and buy the best one you can find. There are tons and tons of them out there - take your time. Condition is everything.
Thanks for all the help guys. It just happens someone might be selling theirs at work(rubber bumper) and it looks quite nice apart from the fact its brown, but that will get painted in time. I think i prefer the idea of the later model because of all the upgrades. By the way whats overdrive. Also can central locking be fitted to these cars. ive seen kits but i think they are for pin operated doors.
cheers Danny
cheers Danny
Damwee said:
By the way whats overdrive.
It's an extra gear that steps-up the propshaft speed relative to the gearbox output. Operated by a switch on the dash, or on the gear-lever.If you're in 4th cruising at 70 - flick the switch and the revs drop. Effectively it adds a fifth gear, for more relaxed cruising.
On some cars it can be operated on 2nd & 3rd gears, giving a range of 'in-between' ratios.
Overdrive cannot be operated on second gear. if it can then it can also be operated on 1st gear because the inhibitor switch isn't operating (it is stuck in) if your overdrive works on anything other than 3rd and fourth then sort it out before the overdrive packs up through excessive torque (should only operate on 4th on v8'S unless it missed the recall)
Cars without overdrive are ok, it is a simple job to change the box, easily done in a weekend, costs under £100 for a good second hand box, but they are pretty rare anyway especially on rubber bumpered cars, mine was but mine was a us model.
Brown is a bit of a kiss of death to be honest, but it might be cheap because of it, it might also be a gem of a car, better to have a mint brown B than a pear rotten tartan red B.
Steering wheel is a 5 minute job to change for a motolita, costs £100 for a nice motolita and boss, needs one socket, and as an added benefit is even simpler on RB cars as the horn is on the stalk.
The car in question will most likely have deckchair or cord seats unless changed, while comfortable they don't look great unless you like the totally period look, they can easily be recovered in leather, any colour you like. I actually sell them exchange just because it is simpler that way. But if you fit the covers yourself it isn't hard if you take your time, budget an hour to remove the seats, an evening to recover them, and an hour in the morning to refit, and then get the hood down and go and enjoy it.
Cars without overdrive are ok, it is a simple job to change the box, easily done in a weekend, costs under £100 for a good second hand box, but they are pretty rare anyway especially on rubber bumpered cars, mine was but mine was a us model.
Brown is a bit of a kiss of death to be honest, but it might be cheap because of it, it might also be a gem of a car, better to have a mint brown B than a pear rotten tartan red B.
Steering wheel is a 5 minute job to change for a motolita, costs £100 for a nice motolita and boss, needs one socket, and as an added benefit is even simpler on RB cars as the horn is on the stalk.
The car in question will most likely have deckchair or cord seats unless changed, while comfortable they don't look great unless you like the totally period look, they can easily be recovered in leather, any colour you like. I actually sell them exchange just because it is simpler that way. But if you fit the covers yourself it isn't hard if you take your time, budget an hour to remove the seats, an evening to recover them, and an hour in the morning to refit, and then get the hood down and go and enjoy it.
You're both right
Overdrive on 3rd and 4th in Bs
and
also 2nd in some Truimphs
Overdrive 3rd is very useful in Bs
The B dash mounted switches are a bit of fun as they are mounted to the extreme right of the dash
Oh and something I didn't learn for years - when using the overdrive keep your foot on the accelerator - no use for braking then
Overdrive on 3rd and 4th in Bs
and
also 2nd in some Truimphs
Overdrive 3rd is very useful in Bs
The B dash mounted switches are a bit of fun as they are mounted to the extreme right of the dash
Oh and something I didn't learn for years - when using the overdrive keep your foot on the accelerator - no use for braking then
wildoliver said:
you shouldn't full throttle change on overdrive changes. I do occasionally, but only when playing with other cars, you should always back off on engaging overdrive, if you full throttle change then you will wear the clutch.
Good point I didn't make that clear I meant don't lift off fully for overdrive changes - I don't often full throttle anyway - and just my opinion now, I think if you need to full throttle the car often then the car is not set up to run at it's (comprised) optimum or you need to get another (quicker/faster) car
or you need to chillout a bit
yeah I know they're sports cars, but if you're on the road - and full throttle wear everything quicker
unless you've got a fleet of them - Oliver
- 
just joking, calm down, foot off throtle
forsure said:
Damwee said:
By the way whats overdrive.
It's an extra gear that steps-up the propshaft speed relative to the gearbox output. Operated by a switch on the dash, or on the gear-lever.If you're in 4th cruising at 70 - flick the switch and the revs drop. Effectively it adds a fifth gear, for more relaxed cruising.
On some cars it can be operated on 2nd & 3rd gears, giving a range of 'in-between' ratios.
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