Cam bearing tools
Discussion
wildoliver said:
I always use a set of sockets to push them gently in to place and then remove highspots after fitting.
I thought about that too, but they are heavey and make the job a bit clumsy.There's a set of drawings for the tools to pull them in here:-
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts206.htm
chap in the tool room at work is making them...
Lol you lucky person! We don't all have a little chap available!
The tricky job is the last push, getting them seated is not too bad, pushing in once seated is easy, but you have to make sure the oil hole mates with the gallery, then you have to try and push it to just the right point to make it even with the journals. You'll see what I mean when you try to do it.
Oliver
The tricky job is the last push, getting them seated is not too bad, pushing in once seated is easy, but you have to make sure the oil hole mates with the gallery, then you have to try and push it to just the right point to make it even with the journals. You'll see what I mean when you try to do it.
Oliver
wildoliver said:
Lol you lucky person! We don't all have a little chap available!
The tricky job is the last push, getting them seated is not too bad, pushing in once seated is easy, but you have to make sure the oil hole mates with the gallery, then you have to try and push it to just the right point to make it even with the journals. You'll see what I mean when you try to do it.
Oliver
I'm filled with confidence.....The tricky job is the last push, getting them seated is not too bad, pushing in once seated is easy, but you have to make sure the oil hole mates with the gallery, then you have to try and push it to just the right point to make it even with the journals. You'll see what I mean when you try to do it.
Oliver
It isn't a hard job don't worry (if I can do it anyone can) 2 points I really must emphasise.
1) and the most important by far line up the oil holes before you press the bearings in. You will not do it with them in situ and removing the bearings again at the very least will p1ss you off if not destroy them.
2) once they are fitted trial fit the cam with a smear of oil and see if it is free, then remove the cam and see if there were any high spots on the bearing. It's up to you but I always polish the high spots off until on about the 5th or 6th trial fit the cam turns smoothly and leaves a smooth grey bearing behind with no silver shiny patches. Don't go mad though. And in fairness most people don't bother. I just like to take a lot of care over my engines.
1) and the most important by far line up the oil holes before you press the bearings in. You will not do it with them in situ and removing the bearings again at the very least will p1ss you off if not destroy them.
2) once they are fitted trial fit the cam with a smear of oil and see if it is free, then remove the cam and see if there were any high spots on the bearing. It's up to you but I always polish the high spots off until on about the 5th or 6th trial fit the cam turns smoothly and leaves a smooth grey bearing behind with no silver shiny patches. Don't go mad though. And in fairness most people don't bother. I just like to take a lot of care over my engines.
wildoliver said:
It isn't a hard job don't worry (if I can do it anyone can) 2 points I really must emphasise.
1) and the most important by far line up the oil holes before you press the bearings in. You will not do it with them in situ and removing the bearings again at the very least will p1ss you off if not destroy them.
2) once they are fitted trial fit the cam with a smear of oil and see if it is free, then remove the cam and see if there were any high spots on the bearing. It's up to you but I always polish the high spots off until on about the 5th or 6th trial fit the cam turns smoothly and leaves a smooth grey bearing behind with no silver shiny patches. Don't go mad though. And in fairness most people don't bother. I just like to take a lot of care over my engines.
I'm the same, I spent two hours cleaning debris out of the bottom of the water jacket with my adapted wall paper steamer....I did this on my Healey engine and the running temp dropped 10 degrees.1) and the most important by far line up the oil holes before you press the bearings in. You will not do it with them in situ and removing the bearings again at the very least will p1ss you off if not destroy them.
2) once they are fitted trial fit the cam with a smear of oil and see if it is free, then remove the cam and see if there were any high spots on the bearing. It's up to you but I always polish the high spots off until on about the 5th or 6th trial fit the cam turns smoothly and leaves a smooth grey bearing behind with no silver shiny patches. Don't go mad though. And in fairness most people don't bother. I just like to take a lot of care over my engines.
Will take care with the cam.
[quote=Huntsman
I'm the same, I spent two hours cleaning debris out of the bottom of the water jacket with my adapted wall paper steamer....I did this on my Healey engine and the running temp dropped 10 degrees.
[/quote]
Interesting - I've just had my MGA radiator refurb'd by Cambridge Cooling (an excellent job too at a very reasonable price) due to hot running and before I replace it in the car, I was looking to do something to clean out the block other than by using chemicals. They advised me just to use a steam cleaner (which I haven't got to hand), but I hadn't thought to use a wallpaper steamer (which I do have to hand). How did you adapt it? And did you just leave it steaming away and then flush the system with a hose?
MG Mark
I'm the same, I spent two hours cleaning debris out of the bottom of the water jacket with my adapted wall paper steamer....I did this on my Healey engine and the running temp dropped 10 degrees.
[/quote]
Interesting - I've just had my MGA radiator refurb'd by Cambridge Cooling (an excellent job too at a very reasonable price) due to hot running and before I replace it in the car, I was looking to do something to clean out the block other than by using chemicals. They advised me just to use a steam cleaner (which I haven't got to hand), but I hadn't thought to use a wallpaper steamer (which I do have to hand). How did you adapt it? And did you just leave it steaming away and then flush the system with a hose?
MG Mark
Hi Mark - I'm going the Ford route and have bought a 3.9 diff too. And front discs. Next stage is a 2.1 econotune from peter burgess....when funds allow.
On the end of the hose on the wall paper steamer I fitted with petrol pipe, sticky tape and jubilee clips (proper Blue peter Stuff) a length of 5/16 OD Nylon fuel hose from my boat. I stood the block on its end with the core plug on the back (the one above the bell housing) facing down, I used an old bench I have out back.
Fired up the steamer, I have tried various chemicals including detergents, degreasrs and Fertan but nothing makes much improvement over plain water steam.
I did notice that the decreased bore of pipe raised the pressure in the steamer to the point that the relief valve in the cap started bubbling, so I taped it shut (bit of a risk I suppose!).
I stated at the top (front) of the block using the steamer pipe as a probe and a wire welding rod to dislodge the crud. I worked my way down the block until I got to the bottom, you can get acess via core plugs and water holes in top face. I had the top face facing me, was all a bit precarious. At first I had a stream of running brown sludge coming out, at the end I had clear water, I alternated between hose and steamer. Careful not to burn your self.
I've done three blocks this way, my Healey 100, where I noted a 10 degree drop, my jag engine which is yet to run and this MG block. In all cases I have noted significant levels of crud in the rear of the block.
I took the block back into the garage, gave it a thorough blow through with an air line to get any water out of oil ways etc and the nsprayed all over inside and out with WD40, seems to be ok.
I then honed the bores and mashed up a cam bearing....
Let me know how you get on.
Ben
On the end of the hose on the wall paper steamer I fitted with petrol pipe, sticky tape and jubilee clips (proper Blue peter Stuff) a length of 5/16 OD Nylon fuel hose from my boat. I stood the block on its end with the core plug on the back (the one above the bell housing) facing down, I used an old bench I have out back.
Fired up the steamer, I have tried various chemicals including detergents, degreasrs and Fertan but nothing makes much improvement over plain water steam.
I did notice that the decreased bore of pipe raised the pressure in the steamer to the point that the relief valve in the cap started bubbling, so I taped it shut (bit of a risk I suppose!).
I stated at the top (front) of the block using the steamer pipe as a probe and a wire welding rod to dislodge the crud. I worked my way down the block until I got to the bottom, you can get acess via core plugs and water holes in top face. I had the top face facing me, was all a bit precarious. At first I had a stream of running brown sludge coming out, at the end I had clear water, I alternated between hose and steamer. Careful not to burn your self.
I've done three blocks this way, my Healey 100, where I noted a 10 degree drop, my jag engine which is yet to run and this MG block. In all cases I have noted significant levels of crud in the rear of the block.
I took the block back into the garage, gave it a thorough blow through with an air line to get any water out of oil ways etc and the nsprayed all over inside and out with WD40, seems to be ok.
I then honed the bores and mashed up a cam bearing....
Let me know how you get on.
Ben
Gassing Station | MG | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff