Would you buy an MGF with HGF?
Discussion
I've been offered an MGF and the owning says they can't afford to fix the Head Gasket. Is it worth tkaing the risk if the price is right. In other words the cost to buy plus say £700 is still a good saving.
Just worried that there could be permanent damage and how would I assess this?
The car is a 2000 1.8, (not advertised as a VVC), so what's it worth fixed also.
Thanks
K
Just worried that there could be permanent damage and how would I assess this?
The car is a 2000 1.8, (not advertised as a VVC), so what's it worth fixed also.
Thanks
K
I've got a mate who bought 2 MGFs for the price of one (it was more a case of 'you can have that one for that price, but you'll need to take that one with HGF with you'.
Most HGF on the K series stops the car before anything tragic happens with the nasty bits inside. So a decent head gasket and a head skim usually does the trick, and just remember to keep an eye on the water levels WEEKLY.
Most HGF on the K series stops the car before anything tragic happens with the nasty bits inside. So a decent head gasket and a head skim usually does the trick, and just remember to keep an eye on the water levels WEEKLY.
I don't want 2.
I've not heard of permanent damage but wondered if anyone here had. I had a LR Tdi which blew the head gasket, also common fault. And provided you didn't drive it until all the oil had gone, (diesels burn the oild quite nicely, you were OK.
Providing you accept the risk it seems like a nice way to get a cheap car with a fresh head gasket.
I've not heard of permanent damage but wondered if anyone here had. I had a LR Tdi which blew the head gasket, also common fault. And provided you didn't drive it until all the oil had gone, (diesels burn the oild quite nicely, you were OK.
Providing you accept the risk it seems like a nice way to get a cheap car with a fresh head gasket.
Kev946 said:
How far can a car with HGF be driven safely?
IF you can get the thing to start, then you'll be lucky if you can get it a mile or two until it gets up to temperature and all of the water disappears as vapour out of the gap between the gasket and the head. Round about that point, the engine temp will go through the roof, the oil will thin and you'll seize the engine.....Don't do it. Arrange a tow.
wadgebeast said:
Kev946 said:
How far can a car with HGF be driven safely?
IF you can get the thing to start, then you'll be lucky if you can get it a mile or two until it gets up to temperature and all of the water disappears as vapour out of the gap between the gasket and the head. Round about that point, the engine temp will go through the roof, the oil will thin and you'll seize the engine.....Don't do it. Arrange a tow.
Kev946 said:
OK I'm going to look at the car. It overheated 2 weeks ago and hasn't been driven since other than to diagnose HGF by a garage.
What should I budget for, e.g. Remote Thermostat upgrade, new metal radiotor pipes?
Landrover HG set and oil rail, Cam belt(or Belts if VVC)cam-belt tensioner, Water pump (Worth changing while you are in there)oil/coolant flush dependant on how much, if any cross contamination was caused by the failure, well worth checking condition of underfloor coolant pipes and radiator.What should I budget for, e.g. Remote Thermostat upgrade, new metal radiotor pipes?
Would not bother with the PRT but a low coolant warning alarm kit from B+G or the like for around £100 is a good investment..
Kev946 said:
Still thinking on the PRT for it though, as the parts only cost £70.
After a bit of research (both here and elsewhere) I came to the conclusion that just keeping an eye on the gauges and driving gently until I'd got a bit of oil temperature showing (takes a while after the water temperature gets to something like normal and shows that the engine's something like warmed through, that temperatures are starting to stabilise, and that you're past the point where you're likely to get sudden influxes of cold water) and taking a quick look at the coolant level/condition very time I open the boot (several times a week) was as far as I needed to go. Having put almost 16K miles on the clock since buying the car in January (total mileage now 55-ishK) that seems to have worked out so far...
Enjoy. It's kind of fun owning a car that's so much better than most people think it is :-)
--
Jonathon.
It all depends on if the engine was badly overheated or not. If so, the engine will likely be scrap; the alloy softens after being exposed to high temperatures, the liners drop in the block and the head gets recessed around the fire ring.
If it was stopped before it went to thermonuclear meltdown, then there is a very good chance of being able to salvage the engine relatively inexpensively.
If it was stopped before it went to thermonuclear meltdown, then there is a very good chance of being able to salvage the engine relatively inexpensively.
S6 ROR said:
What is the PRT? and whats its function.
Pressure Relief Thermostat. It's a thermostat that opens under high pressure (i.e. high RPM) as well when temperature reaches it's opening point. It prevents local overheating in the cylinder head when the engine is driven hard from cold (Freelander), and helps stops the temperature cycling that occurs when the radiator is mounted a long way from the engine, i.e. MGF and Elise.Mr2Mike said:
S6 ROR said:
What is the PRT? and whats its function.
Pressure Relief Thermostat. It's a thermostat that opens under high pressure (i.e. high RPM) as well when temperature reaches it's opening point. It prevents local overheating in the cylinder head when the engine is driven hard from cold (Freelander), and helps stops the temperature cycling that occurs when the radiator is mounted a long way from the engine, i.e. MGF and Elise.
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