upgrading a bgt
Discussion
hi everyone,
my current project is doing a full upgrade on a BGT, i am changing the engine/gearbox/suspension as well as a lot of smaller parts to suit what i want from it, pretty much a useable everyday/occasional trackday/boyracer beating beast in a classic/standard looking shell.
is there any way of upgrading the brake system of a BGT using readily available parts or will i have to go with bigger calipers on bespoke brackets and custom parts all over?
does anyone know if there is a company making independant rear suspension for the B or did i dream that?
also id like to put an LSD on it to get the best from the power the engine puts out, is there anywhere i can source 1 from without spending a fortune? modifying the propshaft/driveshafts is not a problem.
my current project is doing a full upgrade on a BGT, i am changing the engine/gearbox/suspension as well as a lot of smaller parts to suit what i want from it, pretty much a useable everyday/occasional trackday/boyracer beating beast in a classic/standard looking shell.
is there any way of upgrading the brake system of a BGT using readily available parts or will i have to go with bigger calipers on bespoke brackets and custom parts all over?
does anyone know if there is a company making independant rear suspension for the B or did i dream that?
also id like to put an LSD on it to get the best from the power the engine puts out, is there anywhere i can source 1 from without spending a fortune? modifying the propshaft/driveshafts is not a problem.
Lots there!
Yes you can easily upgrade the braking system. Bs actually stop pretty well, but you'll wish to eliminate fade if you're taking it on the track - there are a number of drilled / grooved disks available, and loads of upgraded pads. The back probably won't need much apart from a change in brake cylinder size to prevent lockup.
LSDs are also available - there's certainly a firm near Oxford that does them, but I suspect a little shopping around the following firms will help you. Last time I looked, they were around £600.
Best bet is to look at the catalogue in www.mgoc.co.uk and the b hive in cambridgeshire - they're the main suppliers, best prices for B accessories and parts.
Yes you can easily upgrade the braking system. Bs actually stop pretty well, but you'll wish to eliminate fade if you're taking it on the track - there are a number of drilled / grooved disks available, and loads of upgraded pads. The back probably won't need much apart from a change in brake cylinder size to prevent lockup.
LSDs are also available - there's certainly a firm near Oxford that does them, but I suspect a little shopping around the following firms will help you. Last time I looked, they were around £600.
Best bet is to look at the catalogue in www.mgoc.co.uk and the b hive in cambridgeshire - they're the main suppliers, best prices for B accessories and parts.
Have a look at the Moss cat&dog to, gives plenty of upgrades for the B. My advice is do some research before jumping in to these things.
You say your putting in LSD for the engine, what are you planning, V8? K series? or T series turbo? I suggest these as they are pretty much the out of the box engine that will give you reliability (we all know about the K head though) and the speed you'll be looking for. You can mess about with the B series engine and it is wicked for cutting your teeth so to speak, but you really will be looking at taking the engine as far as you can go (and spending a fortune in the meantime) before you can get anywhere near these other engines as standard. Its all a question of 1)what funds you have 2)what you plan to do 3)how long you expect to do it in.
[you could also super charge your B- but thats a whole different story and I have a good friend who has been the whole way with his, forged pistons etc if you want a contact for that route]
I say these things as I have done the same in the last year. I had a fast road spec B engine, and it was well tuned and very sharp. I'd started to change the SU's for Webers (went through the whole process of buying a new weber etc) but then sold it on. The problem I saw with the B is that for long touring/ modern traffic motorway jaunts you are spanking the engine. Its just not built with push rods etc for taking a constant beating. I opted for a lesser known O series, with a SOHC it removes the need for push rods, its also 2.0l and can mate to the std 4 spd o/d unit of the B.
In my eyes the car needs to be light (so remove every home comfort you don't need) to be punchy with the typical engine choices. As its been said the B does stop pretty well, having put it through its paces I can also verify that. But I've used EBC green stuff pads with std. discs. I've now moved to Mintex 1144 pads and competition fluid which are great. You can get rover SD1's 4 pots or Austin Princess Calipers to use as upgrades or grooved and dimpled dics but beware as i know that some ppl find that the dics warp under heavy breaking...
Best thing to do is draw a box- represnting the car wrote down what you have to spend and then bring ideas to the forum and we'll help you 'build' up a car which can meet your needs budget and aspirations as you can already see there is 10000's of things you can change. the trick is getting them to all work together.
You say your putting in LSD for the engine, what are you planning, V8? K series? or T series turbo? I suggest these as they are pretty much the out of the box engine that will give you reliability (we all know about the K head though) and the speed you'll be looking for. You can mess about with the B series engine and it is wicked for cutting your teeth so to speak, but you really will be looking at taking the engine as far as you can go (and spending a fortune in the meantime) before you can get anywhere near these other engines as standard. Its all a question of 1)what funds you have 2)what you plan to do 3)how long you expect to do it in.
[you could also super charge your B- but thats a whole different story and I have a good friend who has been the whole way with his, forged pistons etc if you want a contact for that route]
I say these things as I have done the same in the last year. I had a fast road spec B engine, and it was well tuned and very sharp. I'd started to change the SU's for Webers (went through the whole process of buying a new weber etc) but then sold it on. The problem I saw with the B is that for long touring/ modern traffic motorway jaunts you are spanking the engine. Its just not built with push rods etc for taking a constant beating. I opted for a lesser known O series, with a SOHC it removes the need for push rods, its also 2.0l and can mate to the std 4 spd o/d unit of the B.
In my eyes the car needs to be light (so remove every home comfort you don't need) to be punchy with the typical engine choices. As its been said the B does stop pretty well, having put it through its paces I can also verify that. But I've used EBC green stuff pads with std. discs. I've now moved to Mintex 1144 pads and competition fluid which are great. You can get rover SD1's 4 pots or Austin Princess Calipers to use as upgrades or grooved and dimpled dics but beware as i know that some ppl find that the dics warp under heavy breaking...
Best thing to do is draw a box- represnting the car wrote down what you have to spend and then bring ideas to the forum and we'll help you 'build' up a car which can meet your needs budget and aspirations as you can already see there is 10000's of things you can change. the trick is getting them to all work together.
thanks for the advice so far, any help is appreciated.
the idea ive had is to change the engine for a 2.0l redtop from an astra 150bhp standard, which will then be tuned probably to around 200-220bhp. i know this is achievable with a cav turbo engine as standard but i want to have the car normally aspirated as i think it would be more in keeping with the classic style of the car. iv chosen this engine as its reliable, tuneable and has straight from the box performance which has already been proven to work with the gearbox i want to use.
to this i will be mating a sierra type-9 5speed box as it will (im told) handle the torque/power of the more powerful engine better than the standard 4speed o/d box. i want to add the lsd as i want to strip out the majority of the creature comforts so it is light and dont want the car to handle as if the back end is on ice. my budget is not massive so this project will be spread over a few years to get it completely finished, even if the car is on the road with the standard diff, non tuned engine etc in 6 months or so.
as for the brakes id like to change the fronts to vented discs if possible to avoid warping under heavy/prolonged abuse and will probably change the brake cylinders to avoid locking up on the rear. in all honesty tho iv bought the car ready stripped down with most of the bodywork already done and have not had the chance to drive it. i may well leave the brakes standard to start with as you say the brakes work well, and they will be newly set up with new seals, pipes and braided hoses, none of which can hurt really.
think thats every thing iv thought about on it for now so any suggestions to make this a better all round car will be taken on board. any constructive criticisms welcome, cheers guys
the idea ive had is to change the engine for a 2.0l redtop from an astra 150bhp standard, which will then be tuned probably to around 200-220bhp. i know this is achievable with a cav turbo engine as standard but i want to have the car normally aspirated as i think it would be more in keeping with the classic style of the car. iv chosen this engine as its reliable, tuneable and has straight from the box performance which has already been proven to work with the gearbox i want to use.
to this i will be mating a sierra type-9 5speed box as it will (im told) handle the torque/power of the more powerful engine better than the standard 4speed o/d box. i want to add the lsd as i want to strip out the majority of the creature comforts so it is light and dont want the car to handle as if the back end is on ice. my budget is not massive so this project will be spread over a few years to get it completely finished, even if the car is on the road with the standard diff, non tuned engine etc in 6 months or so.
as for the brakes id like to change the fronts to vented discs if possible to avoid warping under heavy/prolonged abuse and will probably change the brake cylinders to avoid locking up on the rear. in all honesty tho iv bought the car ready stripped down with most of the bodywork already done and have not had the chance to drive it. i may well leave the brakes standard to start with as you say the brakes work well, and they will be newly set up with new seals, pipes and braided hoses, none of which can hurt really.
think thats every thing iv thought about on it for now so any suggestions to make this a better all round car will be taken on board. any constructive criticisms welcome, cheers guys
I'd get the car on the road as a standard machine first, get the condition right, I reckon a B with everything in good working order is a rewarding car as is, free up all those sticky joints and replace all those knackered bushes and the car will drive very well.
This way you get to drive the car sooner and get to feel the magnitude of improvements as you make them.
Then work your way through all the running gear upgrades until it handles and stops as you want it.
Then drop in some more horses.
This way you get to drive the car sooner and get to feel the magnitude of improvements as you make them.
Then work your way through all the running gear upgrades until it handles and stops as you want it.
Then drop in some more horses.
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