Discussion
does it clear after a few mins running? that'll be fuel evaporation then. wrapping the fuel lines in silver foily tape & making sure the heat shield behind the carbs is ok will help. i believe unleaded evaporates much easier than the real petrol MGs where designed for which means most of them now suffer this.
i know my 1500 midget coughs/splutters/dies/stutters for about 2-3mins on restart if i stop it when hot & restart within about 10-15mins. holding the revs up cures it quicker as the cooler fuel from the tank gets to the carbs & cools the float chambers etc
i know my 1500 midget coughs/splutters/dies/stutters for about 2-3mins on restart if i stop it when hot & restart within about 10-15mins. holding the revs up cures it quicker as the cooler fuel from the tank gets to the carbs & cools the float chambers etc
If it was points, condenser etc, it would happen all the time. It's a cheap fix and probably worth doing anyway, but your problem sounds like fuel evaporation in the carbs and the fuel line in the engine compartment.
As has already been said, check your heat shield is in good nick, and consider a)lagging your manifold and exhaust with heat bandage or b) covering your fuel lines with foil (shiny side out) to try and combat it.
Don't forget this is also a sign of a blown head gasket - the head can warp when very hot so you lose compression, the engine stalls and won't restart until it's cooled. so have a look at your head while you're there and see if there's any sign of steam / vapour leakage from the gasket.
As has already been said, check your heat shield is in good nick, and consider a)lagging your manifold and exhaust with heat bandage or b) covering your fuel lines with foil (shiny side out) to try and combat it.
Don't forget this is also a sign of a blown head gasket - the head can warp when very hot so you lose compression, the engine stalls and won't restart until it's cooled. so have a look at your head while you're there and see if there's any sign of steam / vapour leakage from the gasket.
wadgebeast said:
Don't forget this is also a sign of a blown head gasket - the head can warp when very hot so you lose compression, the engine stalls and won't restart until it's cooled. so have a look at your head while you're there and see if there's any sign of steam / vapour leakage from the gasket.
I agree with this one. Had the same problem on mine and it turned out to be a head gasket had gone and the engine wouldn't restart until it had cooled down.
Was bad enough happening in car parks but the worst time was when it happened in an MG Rover garage car park right outside the spares department door. They didn't even come out to help!!!
The engine/head is almost new(done about 5K miles)
The car doesn't stall,and always starts well.
I think most of it is down to lack of use,although I can't rule out fuel problems.
The specalist I spoke to though said,that 'B's" don't suffer from fuel stavation even the race cars.
What is most confusing is that the last couple of times I have used it ,it hasn't missed a beat!
The car doesn't stall,and always starts well.
I think most of it is down to lack of use,although I can't rule out fuel problems.
The specalist I spoke to though said,that 'B's" don't suffer from fuel stavation even the race cars.
What is most confusing is that the last couple of times I have used it ,it hasn't missed a beat!
Hi
Just sold my B that I had for 21 years, the last few years I had this problem, as people say the petrol evaporates.
Check all the usual like plugs points condenser etc, and don’t forget the carbs.
I added additional heat insulation on the shield and wrapped the exhaust manifold, it was the SS sports free flow type and this solved the problem for me.
If you do wrap the exhaust manifold just check what’s near to the exhaust as it obviously makes the rest of the exhaust hotter.
Just sold my B that I had for 21 years, the last few years I had this problem, as people say the petrol evaporates.
Check all the usual like plugs points condenser etc, and don’t forget the carbs.
I added additional heat insulation on the shield and wrapped the exhaust manifold, it was the SS sports free flow type and this solved the problem for me.
If you do wrap the exhaust manifold just check what’s near to the exhaust as it obviously makes the rest of the exhaust hotter.
Gassing Station | MG | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff