Transplanting MGTF Engine but Immobilisers causing grief
Discussion
I am transplanting an MGTF 160 engine, box, and loom into another car from a rolled write off. I have the ign key and security code but no fob. I also found the manual and followed the instructions for disabling the immobiliser but still no joy.
I have done a bit of prep work ensuring that bonnet switch, rear boot lock all are closed. Also had to fix a fault with the central locking not working on the passenger door just in case. I am assuming the hood doesn't have a trigger on it as its mangled half open?
When I unlock the door the flashing red light goes out now, but on opening the door it comes on solid, on pos2 on the ign switch the bleeper goes off and no cranking.
If I try to unlock the door then leave it closed, the light is off but when I get to pos2, no cranking and bleeper again.
I have checked the number on the rover computer via 2 dealers so I believe it to be correct. I have manually entered it via the Drivers door 5 times now, but hey.
The options are as follows
Order new FOB with code in it 3rd party only, hoping I have the right code!
ECU goes off gets hacked to a new 3rd party immobiliser module comes back matched, no need for FOB ever!.
I buy the kit to do the above ECU Hack myself, useful if I ever change ECU's or do the same conversion again!!! only works on MEM3 systems though.
Anyone out there been through this??
Thanks
Joe
I have done a bit of prep work ensuring that bonnet switch, rear boot lock all are closed. Also had to fix a fault with the central locking not working on the passenger door just in case. I am assuming the hood doesn't have a trigger on it as its mangled half open?
When I unlock the door the flashing red light goes out now, but on opening the door it comes on solid, on pos2 on the ign switch the bleeper goes off and no cranking.
If I try to unlock the door then leave it closed, the light is off but when I get to pos2, no cranking and bleeper again.
I have checked the number on the rover computer via 2 dealers so I believe it to be correct. I have manually entered it via the Drivers door 5 times now, but hey.
The options are as follows
Order new FOB with code in it 3rd party only, hoping I have the right code!
ECU goes off gets hacked to a new 3rd party immobiliser module comes back matched, no need for FOB ever!.
I buy the kit to do the above ECU Hack myself, useful if I ever change ECU's or do the same conversion again!!! only works on MEM3 systems though.
Anyone out there been through this??
Thanks
Joe
IIRC you would need a remote programmed to the ECU to disable the immoberliser, the hood open/closed should make no difference as the interior volumetric sensor (under T-bar) does not operate with the key only, has to be done with the fob!.
I know a few people have done a similar conversion over on the www.mg-rover.org Forum, not just MGFs but Rover saloons so perhaps try a post on the `Ask the guru`s` section you may get more response.
HTH
I know a few people have done a similar conversion over on the www.mg-rover.org Forum, not just MGFs but Rover saloons so perhaps try a post on the `Ask the guru`s` section you may get more response.
HTH
I have a tool which apparently will turn off the immobiliser on cars, its a dealer service tool I picked up from the local main dealer, allegedly fits all MG Rover models with the remote fob, (not the 75 series) I have no idea how it works but if you can use it its yours for a fiver its never going to be of use to me.
I believe it has something to do with coding in new remotes too.
I believe it has something to do with coding in new remotes too.
Hi Oliver
Got the Widget, thanks
All I need now is to work out where to plug it in, Ang MGF Eletrical Guru's out there?
Heres some pics of it http://silicon.fastnet.co.uk/speciali
cheers
Got the Widget, thanks
All I need now is to work out where to plug it in, Ang MGF Eletrical Guru's out there?
Heres some pics of it http://silicon.fastnet.co.uk/speciali
cheers
Thanks Oliver, but the fob is for a Rover city or something but hey worth a try.
I managed to get another 5AS with 2 matched fobs, they dont do anything but I can get to to the cranking position and get a click on the starter so I am guessing it came immobilised, plus the alarm light is now out.
More fault finding and I discover no main feed to the starter!
Then discover wire chopped under car!! must have done it when it rolled, fixed that.
Engine still wont turn over much though, either by hand or starter, have a nose in the timing cover all looks ok, remove plugs and crank, oil everywhere!, looks like I have struck oil!!! (neighbours not to impressed with that).
Keep cranking but depression sets in as it sounds like a bag of spanners, or more aptly an small end or broken camshaft! damaged piston, is this normal on VVC engines?? someone has suggested maybe due to no oil pressure on cranking?
Put plugs back in and to my amazement it started runs for a second then cuts out. I can here it has fuel presssure as the pump continues for a little while after it stops, its as though is just running on one squirt, if I use throttle as I start it it revs but still cuts out quick.
I am a bit confused as it sounded awful with the plugs out,but starts up and for the time its running oil light goes out and sounds fine. It will also crank over fine now.
So suggestions as to imediate cutting out, Lamda coated in oil? Timing belt jumped a tooth? immobiliser still causing problems?????
I managed to get another 5AS with 2 matched fobs, they dont do anything but I can get to to the cranking position and get a click on the starter so I am guessing it came immobilised, plus the alarm light is now out.
More fault finding and I discover no main feed to the starter!
Then discover wire chopped under car!! must have done it when it rolled, fixed that.
Engine still wont turn over much though, either by hand or starter, have a nose in the timing cover all looks ok, remove plugs and crank, oil everywhere!, looks like I have struck oil!!! (neighbours not to impressed with that).
Keep cranking but depression sets in as it sounds like a bag of spanners, or more aptly an small end or broken camshaft! damaged piston, is this normal on VVC engines?? someone has suggested maybe due to no oil pressure on cranking?
Put plugs back in and to my amazement it started runs for a second then cuts out. I can here it has fuel presssure as the pump continues for a little while after it stops, its as though is just running on one squirt, if I use throttle as I start it it revs but still cuts out quick.
I am a bit confused as it sounded awful with the plugs out,but starts up and for the time its running oil light goes out and sounds fine. It will also crank over fine now.
So suggestions as to imediate cutting out, Lamda coated in oil? Timing belt jumped a tooth? immobiliser still causing problems?????
Can't see it being Immobiliser, unless you have a fluctuating power supply once its clicked out its clicked out full stop.
Could be fuel, although fuel die is more progressive, this sounds sudden.
Must be ignition I'd guess. If I were you I would bite the bullet and send it to an ignition specialist. At least you know it runs!
And bad luck on the widget any idea what it actually does?
Could be fuel, although fuel die is more progressive, this sounds sudden.
Must be ignition I'd guess. If I were you I would bite the bullet and send it to an ignition specialist. At least you know it runs!
And bad luck on the widget any idea what it actually does?
We sent the whole lot off for synchronisation, hopefully that will cure it.
No idea on the Fob Programmer I have put it on ebay along with some of the parts we have started to remove from the TF 160 http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZsk
Cheers
Joe
No idea on the Fob Programmer I have put it on ebay along with some of the parts we have started to remove from the TF 160 http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZsk
Cheers
Joe
Gassing Station | MG | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff