mgf head gasket failure!
Discussion
HGF's are not normally caused by the head gasket its self, but by the failure of a component within the cooling system, so you need to get the full cooling system checked over for leaks, holes or failed components as well as getting the HG repaired. If the cause of the failure is not found then the gasket will keep failing. If you drove the car for any significant amount of time with the HGF, then it is also likely the head will have warped and will need skimming.
The standard MG replacement gasket is uprated over the standard ones fitted to pre MY2000 cars, and will come with steel dowels to replace the plastic ones.
The cooling system will also need to be flushed and bled correctly.
Also check out www.ukmgparts.com as they now sell a low coolant level alarm kit for the MGF/TF which will give you an early warning that there is a problem and hopefully mean it can be identified & repaired before the head gasket fails.
The standard MG replacement gasket is uprated over the standard ones fitted to pre MY2000 cars, and will come with steel dowels to replace the plastic ones.
The cooling system will also need to be flushed and bled correctly.
Also check out www.ukmgparts.com as they now sell a low coolant level alarm kit for the MGF/TF which will give you an early warning that there is a problem and hopefully mean it can be identified & repaired before the head gasket fails.
Bad luck, but don't give in!
Where to get it fixed is easy; anywhere you trust, that has got some experience of the MG. Use your own garage, or Mike Satur is highly recommended (see his website). Make sure whoever does it bleeds it correctly. There are a couple of other stuff you can do at the same time if you wish, e.g. steel dowels rather than plastic. For good techno information, try www.xpower-mg.com. Good info and forums, specifically for all MGs.
To help stop this happening again (which is an unfortunate feature of the K-series, with its small amount of coolant) try to:
1) Check the coolant level daily, or definitely weekly, and deal with any drop. Depending on how old the beastie is, you may want to buy a replacement coolant cap, 'cos they upgraded them a while ago.
2) Top up the coolant with the right mix, not just water.
3) Always warm the engine up (preferably to 90 degrees, but definitely moving uo the scale) before riding it over 3k revs.
4) Never switch off hot (definitely not if around 120 degrees)after its been ridden hard. Drive slowly last few miles. Run engine for a minute or so when parked, to circulate coolant.
5) Keep an eye on the temp and oil gauge, particularly if stuck in slow moving traffic on a hot day. If it's getting a bit warm, turn the heater on.
6) If driving, and it starts to get too hot (when you think there's something wrong) dont carry on...stop and do something.
7) Change the fan fuse from 15amps to 20amps.
8) Keep it well looked after (like any car) either yourself or a garage you trust (either a Main Dealer, or a proper garage!). Servicing will help to throw up problems early.
There are probably lots of other tips, but those will get you started. Remember, you are driving the best mass produced drop top that you can buy for less than 20k, so once it's all sorted, get back out and drive it. Try the website (x-power) for other info.
Where to get it fixed is easy; anywhere you trust, that has got some experience of the MG. Use your own garage, or Mike Satur is highly recommended (see his website). Make sure whoever does it bleeds it correctly. There are a couple of other stuff you can do at the same time if you wish, e.g. steel dowels rather than plastic. For good techno information, try www.xpower-mg.com. Good info and forums, specifically for all MGs.
To help stop this happening again (which is an unfortunate feature of the K-series, with its small amount of coolant) try to:
1) Check the coolant level daily, or definitely weekly, and deal with any drop. Depending on how old the beastie is, you may want to buy a replacement coolant cap, 'cos they upgraded them a while ago.
2) Top up the coolant with the right mix, not just water.
3) Always warm the engine up (preferably to 90 degrees, but definitely moving uo the scale) before riding it over 3k revs.
4) Never switch off hot (definitely not if around 120 degrees)after its been ridden hard. Drive slowly last few miles. Run engine for a minute or so when parked, to circulate coolant.
5) Keep an eye on the temp and oil gauge, particularly if stuck in slow moving traffic on a hot day. If it's getting a bit warm, turn the heater on.
6) If driving, and it starts to get too hot (when you think there's something wrong) dont carry on...stop and do something.
7) Change the fan fuse from 15amps to 20amps.
8) Keep it well looked after (like any car) either yourself or a garage you trust (either a Main Dealer, or a proper garage!). Servicing will help to throw up problems early.
There are probably lots of other tips, but those will get you started. Remember, you are driving the best mass produced drop top that you can buy for less than 20k, so once it's all sorted, get back out and drive it. Try the website (x-power) for other info.
many thanks
i have got various quotes, most of the dealerships are looking for £600 for just a basic gasket change. however a mg specialist near me wants £1k, however with that he is doing, gasket, cam belt, skimming, pressure checks on head, x ray of head, various other things etc. not sure what i should do. any ideas? would it also be worth replacing the cooling pipes under the car?
have been on mike saturs website, would it be worth at the same time changing radiator with an uprated one - would that have any effect on reducing the possibility of another hgf?
many thanks
i have got various quotes, most of the dealerships are looking for £600 for just a basic gasket change. however a mg specialist near me wants £1k, however with that he is doing, gasket, cam belt, skimming, pressure checks on head, x ray of head, various other things etc. not sure what i should do. any ideas? would it also be worth replacing the cooling pipes under the car?
have been on mike saturs website, would it be worth at the same time changing radiator with an uprated one - would that have any effect on reducing the possibility of another hgf?
many thanks
A lot of what you do is dependent on how old the car is, and how rich you are!!!
First of all I would find out in detail exactly what the dealership is going to do. For example, they should do a pressure test whatever else they don't do. If it is only change the gasket for £600, it seems a bit steep.
The cam-belt should be changed at 5 years/60k (if I remember correctly). So if its coming up to that, or anywhere near it, then I personally would definitely get it done at the same time. This might be because I've had a cambelt go, taking with it every single cylinde and valve! It wasn't on the F, but it sure taught me a lesson. If you go to a dealer for a cambelt service, it can be £450.
On the rad, I think this is really a subjective call. The uprated systems give 'better' cooling performance, but by how much? They last longer, but are more expensive. By the way, it's also recommended that they are changed at specified times, but most people dont.
So.....................
If the dealer is only doing the gasket change, and the car is the right age/mileage for the cambelt change, then it makes sense to do all the rest at the specialist. The extra money is well spent IF you can afford it. However, if doing so means you can't feed the children.....!!!!
If it was me, I would do the lot, but not the rad. Thats partly due to the fact that not only am I a big fat F'er, I'm pretty tight as well.
Hope this helps. If you are unsure about the rad, and the benefits, I would give Mike a ring. After all he's the expert, so you may as well take advantage of him (in a purely professionla way).
Good luck....look on the bright side....you're driving a classic British sports car, and once done its back to being superior to all the others.
First of all I would find out in detail exactly what the dealership is going to do. For example, they should do a pressure test whatever else they don't do. If it is only change the gasket for £600, it seems a bit steep.
The cam-belt should be changed at 5 years/60k (if I remember correctly). So if its coming up to that, or anywhere near it, then I personally would definitely get it done at the same time. This might be because I've had a cambelt go, taking with it every single cylinde and valve! It wasn't on the F, but it sure taught me a lesson. If you go to a dealer for a cambelt service, it can be £450.
On the rad, I think this is really a subjective call. The uprated systems give 'better' cooling performance, but by how much? They last longer, but are more expensive. By the way, it's also recommended that they are changed at specified times, but most people dont.
So.....................
If the dealer is only doing the gasket change, and the car is the right age/mileage for the cambelt change, then it makes sense to do all the rest at the specialist. The extra money is well spent IF you can afford it. However, if doing so means you can't feed the children.....!!!!
If it was me, I would do the lot, but not the rad. Thats partly due to the fact that not only am I a big fat F'er, I'm pretty tight as well.
Hope this helps. If you are unsure about the rad, and the benefits, I would give Mike a ring. After all he's the expert, so you may as well take advantage of him (in a purely professionla way).
Good luck....look on the bright side....you're driving a classic British sports car, and once done its back to being superior to all the others.
Hi
The main dealer I went to when my coupe head had gone quoted the same. But you really must get the head checked for warping and if you really cooked it get the block checked. If it is warped (mine was) you will pay for skimming and if its really bad ( mine was) you will ned a head saver gasked - a steel gasket to replace the skimmed metal to stop the pistons hitting the valves. You should also while you are there change the water pump mechanism and the cam belt (s) if it as a VVC and the tensioner as this can sieze with time. All this will cost lots more. I went independent who predicted this all up front and quoted aruond a grand and a bit.
Ask your main dealer what the cost would be with all these bits!
Hope this helps
Spunagain
The main dealer I went to when my coupe head had gone quoted the same. But you really must get the head checked for warping and if you really cooked it get the block checked. If it is warped (mine was) you will pay for skimming and if its really bad ( mine was) you will ned a head saver gasked - a steel gasket to replace the skimmed metal to stop the pistons hitting the valves. You should also while you are there change the water pump mechanism and the cam belt (s) if it as a VVC and the tensioner as this can sieze with time. All this will cost lots more. I went independent who predicted this all up front and quoted aruond a grand and a bit.
Ask your main dealer what the cost would be with all these bits!
Hope this helps
Spunagain
The more I think about it, the more I would go for the specialist. Depending on the degree and cause of HGF, the head can warp. This has to be checked and skimmed if warped. I can see the dealership now..." we've started the job, and checked it, and I know we quoted £600, but now you've chosen us, the head needs skimming" etc., etc., etc.
Get the lot done at the specialist (assuming you can genuinely afford it). Spunagain's right, you should check what the dealer will charge, but I'm telling you now it will be a lot more than the other guys. You'll be happier once you've made the decision, and you can get back on the road.
Also, mgsteve recommends the low coolant level alarm. These are a good idea BUT a real danger is complacency. It's important that you still check your coolant level regularly. There is so little room for error on the k-series that a drop can have serious results. If the warning kit fails, you don't get warned. The main benefit of the coolant level kit is to warn you when you are actually driving on the road. Don't get into the habit of relying on it.
>> Edited by Big Fat F'er on Friday 29th July 12:40
Get the lot done at the specialist (assuming you can genuinely afford it). Spunagain's right, you should check what the dealer will charge, but I'm telling you now it will be a lot more than the other guys. You'll be happier once you've made the decision, and you can get back on the road.
Also, mgsteve recommends the low coolant level alarm. These are a good idea BUT a real danger is complacency. It's important that you still check your coolant level regularly. There is so little room for error on the k-series that a drop can have serious results. If the warning kit fails, you don't get warned. The main benefit of the coolant level kit is to warn you when you are actually driving on the road. Don't get into the habit of relying on it.
>> Edited by Big Fat F'er on Friday 29th July 12:40
hiya, I had the same problems with my mg and searching for a mechanic to do it for less than £400 was difficult. My car was overheating badley and loosing water rapidly. I found www.head-mechanics.co.uk and they come to my house one morning told me the problems, took it away, and returned it the the next day fixed for just over £300. No other place would come pick it up and take it away. I got quoted £1500 at one garage!!! Bloody rip off. They put the uprated head gasket on it so it wont go again for years!!! cool. give them a try i say.
Hi,
Headgasket failure is a nightmare! Its bad enough on high mileage cars but on rovers they have been known to go under 30,000 miles which is a joke! I used a product called Steelseal to fix the headgasket on an old Merc 190. I was very sceptical but it was at the point that I would of scrapped the car so had to be worth a punt. The Merc is still going strong some 3500 miles later just cant seem to kill it. I reccommended it to my mate when his Freelander headgasket went and it did the job on his too. Its good stuff. I bought it from www.steelseal.co.uk but I know its in factors aswell! Hope that helps mate and saves you a few quid.
Headgasket failure is a nightmare! Its bad enough on high mileage cars but on rovers they have been known to go under 30,000 miles which is a joke! I used a product called Steelseal to fix the headgasket on an old Merc 190. I was very sceptical but it was at the point that I would of scrapped the car so had to be worth a punt. The Merc is still going strong some 3500 miles later just cant seem to kill it. I reccommended it to my mate when his Freelander headgasket went and it did the job on his too. Its good stuff. I bought it from www.steelseal.co.uk but I know its in factors aswell! Hope that helps mate and saves you a few quid.
Big Fat F'er said:
Also, mgsteve recommends the low coolant level alarm. These are a good idea BUT a real danger is complacency. It's important that you still check your coolant level regularly. There is so little room for error on the k-series that a drop can have serious results. If the warning kit fails, you don't get warned. The main benefit of the coolant level kit is to warn you when you are actually driving on the road. Don't get into the habit of relying on it.
It's actually quite handy that the coolant reservoir is in the boot pretty much in plain sight. In my case this means that the coolant level gets a glance every Monday morning and every Friday afternoon at an absolute minimum. Out of interest how often/much would you expect to need to top up the coolant on an F - I think I've topped mine up twice in 22000 miles (with the whole lot being changed 12000 miles ago, I'm on my second 1 litre bottle, and the rate of use doesn't seem to have changed. Does this sound about normal for a car that's done 66200 miles in about 10 years? It doesn't seem a lot, but on the other hand I've never had to top up my Audi or either the two Mercedes which preceded it up at all between services...
--
JG
benjaminsmam said:
I have an MGTF 02 160bhp and have just been told the gasket has gone, and looking on here it seems pretty common, I am in the north east and want to find a reputable garage to do it, any advice? I've been quoted around £650 does this seem reasonable?
Any where near Richmond? I just had mine done by a great garage.benjaminsmam said:
I have an MGTF 02 160bhp and have just been told the gasket has gone, and looking on here it seems pretty common, I am in the north east and want to find a reputable garage to do it, any advice? I've been quoted around £650 does this seem reasonable?
Had mine done last year by a local (Chester Le Street) ex mg rover mech and didn't cost me anywhere near that I had the propper gaskets not eth MG crap fitted and 4Life advance coolant put in.benjaminsmam said:
got it booked into a garage up here but thanks for the reply, fingers crossed it doesnt cost me a limb!
I just got a bill for £850 
2 tyres, a metal coolant pipe and HG fixed. That excludes the £175 i paid cash for having the hydragas sorted and the £75 for ss underfloor pipes. Anyone wanna buy an MGF Trophy?160steve said:
I just got a bill for £850 2 tyres, a metal coolant pipe and HG fixed. That excludes the £175 i paid cash for having the hydragas sorted and the £75 for ss underfloor pipes. Anyone wanna buy an MGF Trophy?
Same great garage that you mentioned earlier ??? 2 tyres, a metal coolant pipe and HG fixed. That excludes the £175 i paid cash for having the hydragas sorted and the £75 for ss underfloor pipes. Anyone wanna buy an MGF Trophy?160steve said:
Any where near Richmond? I just had mine done by a great garage.
Gassing Station | MG | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff