Thinking of getting B GT
Discussion
Rust! The mechanicals on a B are relatively strong and on the whole cheap to fix especially if you have some mechanical knowledge and ability. I would suggest running through the same checks you would for any older car (excessive smoke from exhaust, excessively noisey tappets etc). another point to take a carefull look at is the electrics. People have almost certainly added extras (Headlight relays, electric fans etc) and the wiring loom can often be a complete mess making it very difficult to trace faults. We took a B to Le Mans this weekend and had the brake lights randomly start and stop working and the indicaters pack up to name just a few problems. If every thing looks tidy and organised, and every thing works then you should be pretty safe.
Finally we get back to the rust issue. Bad mechnicals on a B can be fixed but a rotten shell can easily write a car off. Take a very good look at the sills as they are a definate week point. I would sugest getting under the car and having a poke around the bottom of the sills and the insides of the wheel arches as any tell tale signs are likely to be there. The top of the rear wings are also worth looking at as they are tricky to fix if rotten on a GT. I'm sure others will add some more good tips but hope this helps to start you off. Good hunting!
Finally we get back to the rust issue. Bad mechnicals on a B can be fixed but a rotten shell can easily write a car off. Take a very good look at the sills as they are a definate week point. I would sugest getting under the car and having a poke around the bottom of the sills and the insides of the wheel arches as any tell tale signs are likely to be there. The top of the rear wings are also worth looking at as they are tricky to fix if rotten on a GT. I'm sure others will add some more good tips but hope this helps to start you off. Good hunting!
I would say it is more important to have a good body on the car than good mechanicals, far cheaper to sort out mechanicals than the body.
Rust to the sills and inner wheel arch areas is to be expected on most cars - unfortunately most of the time you cannot see it until it gets to the expensive to repair stage.
Things to look for that can be considered pluses are :- telescopic rear dampers, uprated front dampers, stage 2 headwork.
Be prepared to wait for a good car to become available, as there is a plentiful enough supply of cars for you to afford to be picky with what you buy.
If you think you may ever want to fit a V8 into one, then buy a rubber bumber car - much easier and cheaper to fit a V8 to these cars than a chrome bumper and as a bonus the rubber bumper cars are far cheaper to buy, and at the end of the day a rubber bumper model can be converted to chrome bumpers for very little money while making the car considerably better looking
Rust to the sills and inner wheel arch areas is to be expected on most cars - unfortunately most of the time you cannot see it until it gets to the expensive to repair stage.
Things to look for that can be considered pluses are :- telescopic rear dampers, uprated front dampers, stage 2 headwork.
Be prepared to wait for a good car to become available, as there is a plentiful enough supply of cars for you to afford to be picky with what you buy.
If you think you may ever want to fit a V8 into one, then buy a rubber bumber car - much easier and cheaper to fit a V8 to these cars than a chrome bumper and as a bonus the rubber bumper cars are far cheaper to buy, and at the end of the day a rubber bumper model can be converted to chrome bumpers for very little money while making the car considerably better looking
join the mg owners club i have been a member for the last 4 years you get, cheap parts and loads of free advice if you gotta a prob, a magazine every month , local club meets,local runs , cheap days out etc etc well worth the money if you do join mention my club no 270111d-5web site:- www.mgownersclub.co.uk
you even get a free booklet on how and what to look for buying your first mg hope this is usefull neil
you even get a free booklet on how and what to look for buying your first mg hope this is usefull neil
cartie303 said:
join the mg owners club i have been a member for the last 4 years you get, cheap parts and loads of free advice if you gotta a prob, a magazine every month , local club meets,local runs , cheap days out etc etc well worth the money if you do join mention my club no 270111d-5web site:- www.mgownersclub.co.uk
you even get a free booklet on how and what to look for buying your first mg hope this is usefull neil
I second that...also the mgcc is worth joining.
www.mgcc.co.uk
I'll also agree to look for rust! Do what you have to do to get a un-rusty car.
Get a chrome bumper car if you can find a good one, in my opinion anyway.
If you plan on using it on the motorway get one with overdrive. Of course an OD transmission can be added after the fact but it's more trouble than just holding out for it factory installed.
Clutch replacement is more trouble than most since engine and tranny have to come out (well, at least the engine for certain and most people I know recommend pulling the whole thing, "by the book"
Brake pad/shoe replacement is easier than most.
Think about wire wheels - they look great but are far less practical than the Rostyles. Maybe you have a good tyre vendor who understands wires and how to mount/balance tires on them, this is not that obvious and most here in the States are clueless.
If you want "modern" ICE a 12V negative ground car (1968 or later IIRC) will be easier to deal with, although the 6 V cars can have a 12V ICE system, it's work though!
The electrical connectors on these cars go bad and I have revived a lot of lights on my '72 B by replacing them, pay attention when working on this as the little bullet connectors are all just alike, nothing but your own common sense prevents plugging a ground wire directly into a hot one...
Parts availability is excellent, so don't be put off much by any small bits missing, but at the same time don't buy a car in poor condition, keep looking till you find a good 'un, they are out there.
Get a chrome bumper car if you can find a good one, in my opinion anyway.
If you plan on using it on the motorway get one with overdrive. Of course an OD transmission can be added after the fact but it's more trouble than just holding out for it factory installed.
Clutch replacement is more trouble than most since engine and tranny have to come out (well, at least the engine for certain and most people I know recommend pulling the whole thing, "by the book"
Brake pad/shoe replacement is easier than most.
Think about wire wheels - they look great but are far less practical than the Rostyles. Maybe you have a good tyre vendor who understands wires and how to mount/balance tires on them, this is not that obvious and most here in the States are clueless.
If you want "modern" ICE a 12V negative ground car (1968 or later IIRC) will be easier to deal with, although the 6 V cars can have a 12V ICE system, it's work though!
The electrical connectors on these cars go bad and I have revived a lot of lights on my '72 B by replacing them, pay attention when working on this as the little bullet connectors are all just alike, nothing but your own common sense prevents plugging a ground wire directly into a hot one...
Parts availability is excellent, so don't be put off much by any small bits missing, but at the same time don't buy a car in poor condition, keep looking till you find a good 'un, they are out there.
Rust is your enemy and the damned things are Gold Medallists in the Tinworm Olympics. Sills and inner wings are the worst along with door pillars and floorpans. If you find any rust near suspension points, spring shackles or chassis members, walk away. All can be repaired, depending on the weight of your wallet or your ability with a MIG welder.
On the other hand, they are one of the best MG's to own, the steel roof lending rigidity to the car, making it far more agile than the roadster and less (but not much!) of a handful in the wet.
My own BGT is a 1980 Rubber Bumper model about 1500 cars from the end of production in 1981. As a result, it has the beefy anti-roll bars fore and aft and quite a nice 'modern' feeling interior as well as Laycock LH overdrive switched from the gearshift rather than the older D-type OD switched from the dash. (Blast past a Chav in his Nova and switch in the OD as you pass and he will be convinced that he has just been fried by an automatic...!). Also try and get one with HIF SU carbs instead of HS's as they are much simpler to look after and don't leak or de-tune so readily.
The electrics can be a nightmare - having owned a Lancia or an Alfa is a help. The engine/drivetrain is straight out of a bus and almost unburstable - get one that has been converted to unleaded petrol if you don't want to bugger about with fuel additives and stick a tenner's worth of Optimax in the tank now and again when you feel like giving it a treat.
My advice? Go for it - they are great fun and, in these days of WorldBoxes that all look the same, drive the same and are tuned for boredom, they are a breath of fresh air.
On the other hand, they are one of the best MG's to own, the steel roof lending rigidity to the car, making it far more agile than the roadster and less (but not much!) of a handful in the wet.
My own BGT is a 1980 Rubber Bumper model about 1500 cars from the end of production in 1981. As a result, it has the beefy anti-roll bars fore and aft and quite a nice 'modern' feeling interior as well as Laycock LH overdrive switched from the gearshift rather than the older D-type OD switched from the dash. (Blast past a Chav in his Nova and switch in the OD as you pass and he will be convinced that he has just been fried by an automatic...!). Also try and get one with HIF SU carbs instead of HS's as they are much simpler to look after and don't leak or de-tune so readily.
The electrics can be a nightmare - having owned a Lancia or an Alfa is a help. The engine/drivetrain is straight out of a bus and almost unburstable - get one that has been converted to unleaded petrol if you don't want to bugger about with fuel additives and stick a tenner's worth of Optimax in the tank now and again when you feel like giving it a treat.
My advice? Go for it - they are great fun and, in these days of WorldBoxes that all look the same, drive the same and are tuned for boredom, they are a breath of fresh air.
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