Discussion
must be green, british racing green, with chrome bumpers, and pre 73 for tax purposes -- and if you want to be cool like me, left hand drive (then i did bring mine over from the states)
other than that, one that has decent shocks that don't leak (yeah right), nice tight steering and no horrible rust throught the sills and floor, oh and make sure the diff is in good shape, not too much play, cause thems not cheap.
hope you get one, cause they are loads of fun, i've converted my suspension over to real shocks and i can keep up with almost anything in the twisties. any amount of straight tho, and i'm toasted.
other than that, one that has decent shocks that don't leak (yeah right), nice tight steering and no horrible rust throught the sills and floor, oh and make sure the diff is in good shape, not too much play, cause thems not cheap.
hope you get one, cause they are loads of fun, i've converted my suspension over to real shocks and i can keep up with almost anything in the twisties. any amount of straight tho, and i'm toasted.
Being in BRG not a requirement, mine is in a perfectly acceptable old english white, and the other is in a midnight blue.
Ok bits to look out for.
2 types that are most desirable 1970-72 RWA (round wheel arch at the rear) only 2 years had this both being tax except.
The othertype are the ones just before the change in hood mechanism, your looking for the older model which will have a slatted chrome front grille, which afraid I cannot rember the full years but is something like 1963 to about 68.
I have one of each. Problem with the 64 (the white turboed one is the hood mechanism#) there isnt a hood mechanism its a pull it apart and fit in the boot type, oh and some point in that year was still +ve earth I know the 64 is since mine was converted. The 72 your fold the hood as you bring the hood machanism back roll and attach quater tonno if you have one, and takes about 1 min when practiced.
Bad points, rust, not always bad but look in certain areas, ie sill, take out jacking bung and look behind to see the inner sill have a feel that the jacking sill hole area is solid (You will probably never use that type of jack which would fit in there as its a little unneving if you have one in and you watch the car sway, but you never know)
Open bonnet look at the chassis legs they are thick so rust not too much of an issue unless you see a hole, your more looking to make sure they are straight. Also gives you a chance to look at the front inner wings.
Open boot and look at the wheel arch sections (you will probably need a torch) especially where the inner, outer and boot coner connect, as this will give you a good indication to condition of the inner wing.
Rear diff, well checking for play id mostly just listen to the whine it makes expect some noise but it shouldnt be overly loud. A second hand diff will be around 100 so not to bad, but a little awkward to change the whole diff.
Lift footwell carpets up to check floor condition, and likewise have a good look underneath especially around the spring haggers.
Bits that are a plus, Spax suspension rear, and if you find one with front even better since that alone is around 350, 5 speed box, great if you can find one since they will cost min of 300 if you source and build everything yourself else about 500 with you doing most of the work and ordering the parts.
Dont worry about it being a dynamo, you only need to by a metro alternater so what 30 and im more than happy to tell you how to convert which is faily quick to do.
Sorry for a big post but this should keep you fairly straight and narrow
http://turbocharged-midget.tripod.com/index.html
Ok bits to look out for.
2 types that are most desirable 1970-72 RWA (round wheel arch at the rear) only 2 years had this both being tax except.
The othertype are the ones just before the change in hood mechanism, your looking for the older model which will have a slatted chrome front grille, which afraid I cannot rember the full years but is something like 1963 to about 68.
I have one of each. Problem with the 64 (the white turboed one is the hood mechanism#) there isnt a hood mechanism its a pull it apart and fit in the boot type, oh and some point in that year was still +ve earth I know the 64 is since mine was converted. The 72 your fold the hood as you bring the hood machanism back roll and attach quater tonno if you have one, and takes about 1 min when practiced.
Bad points, rust, not always bad but look in certain areas, ie sill, take out jacking bung and look behind to see the inner sill have a feel that the jacking sill hole area is solid (You will probably never use that type of jack which would fit in there as its a little unneving if you have one in and you watch the car sway, but you never know)
Open bonnet look at the chassis legs they are thick so rust not too much of an issue unless you see a hole, your more looking to make sure they are straight. Also gives you a chance to look at the front inner wings.
Open boot and look at the wheel arch sections (you will probably need a torch) especially where the inner, outer and boot coner connect, as this will give you a good indication to condition of the inner wing.
Rear diff, well checking for play id mostly just listen to the whine it makes expect some noise but it shouldnt be overly loud. A second hand diff will be around 100 so not to bad, but a little awkward to change the whole diff.
Lift footwell carpets up to check floor condition, and likewise have a good look underneath especially around the spring haggers.
Bits that are a plus, Spax suspension rear, and if you find one with front even better since that alone is around 350, 5 speed box, great if you can find one since they will cost min of 300 if you source and build everything yourself else about 500 with you doing most of the work and ordering the parts.
Dont worry about it being a dynamo, you only need to by a metro alternater so what 30 and im more than happy to tell you how to convert which is faily quick to do.
Sorry for a big post but this should keep you fairly straight and narrow
http://turbocharged-midget.tripod.com/index.html
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